ahsan127

bovien

Pmafia, that is great work!
I thought about the save way of pulling the switch, but couldn't find a socket that fit. Either too thick edgesb or to short. Did you use anything special?
I got one swift from Porsche for insane money du needed it quick, but you can also get it from the manufacturer, Suco, directly. There is like 50$ or so as far as I recall. The have many resellers as well.

I'm troubled by the hydraulic fluid in the lines. Mine still work though, but I'm not comfortable with the fact that we are finding this fluid there. Must come from the dampers in some way, and I don't like them leaking.
Can anyone confirm that the leak and if the fluid actually is hydraulic fluid from them?
First off I think or fix is temporarily due to this, secondary I'm worried that the dampers might be failing.
I'll probably be getting the car approved later this season, and will run this past them if they can check anything up.
If all fails, I'm guessing this is the road to DSC 😉

JB911

I did a search for part number 997.341.967.90 out of curiosity and some US dealers have them listed at around $236-would be nice to get it from suco direct. Their site showed some results, but only if you search with the German language. When I switched to English it said there was an error-

ahsan127

bovien

Think you need to email them with part no.
Their standard switch comes so you need to adjudicate it to the right pressure yourself, but I know they can deliver one exactly to spec with the right pressure and part no on it. The one I got from them was like that, however I had a guy order it for me together with the one he bought at reading this thread.

Pmafia

I ordered 997-341-967-90 from localpartsshop.com and the order was fulfilled by Westmont Porsche in IL back in April. Link for the site doesn't work now, not sure why.

Sonnen Porsche Parts has it at $228.96, shipping not included.
https://www.sonnenporscheoemparts.co...ch-99734196790

I used this socket from Amazon:

ahsan127

martinkm

nice work Bovien and PMafia. Quick question before I try doing this also - is the compressor system biased more towards the front or the rear of the car? I only have 2 jack stands so I'm wondering which end I should jack up? Also, I know there's a narrow under-car tray in the very center of the car - can I get away with just removing that tray or do I need to remove the entire front/rear trays?

thanks for sharing your hard earned lessons!

JB911

I don't think you'd be able to do this with the car on jack stands, very claustrophobic to begin with, and I believe all underbody panels need to be removed-also, careful with the nylon nuts down there, over tightening can actually snap the aluminum studs-

bovien

Correct. You need at least center and front panels off. You can leave the rear. As JB said, be careful as the stuffs come off easily.
The system is almost exact centre of car, roughly a meter long. You will need to be able at access both ends to release the system. Gonna be hell on two stands although might be doable if you buy another set of joints for your arms 😉

bovien

Well, mine just died again. Used 3 tubes right this season and it now functions as before the fix. Fairly sure it's the hydraulic fluid in the air lines that is the true culprit here.
Does anyone have an idea how it gets there?
I haven't taken the suspension apart myself, so I have no idea how and where the lines run and connect.
I remember someone taking about a seal in the dampers. I wonder on this is fixable or the result of this might be new dampers?
Also, I would expect leaking hydraulic fluid have kind of severe results, but this is leaking into a closed system though..

ahsan127

Thats not good. Especially since I was planning on doing the job this weekend. I ordered the part and this is what came in the mail today. Where does the washer go? What is the black rubber piece?
I dont have the workshop manual so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I also assume removing the panels underneath the car is a straight forward job.
Please see pic below.
Thanks!

ahsan127

bovien

I have talked to some, who doesn't see the hydraulic fluid in the lines. So please do check for that and report. For me, it was easy to see all they way to the switch itself.

The washer go between the switch and the mounting face. You'll see, when you get the old one out. The rubber is for use where the wire goes into the switch, through a cap, that you will take from the original one. Again, you'll see when you get down there.

The panels are the easy part. Just be careful not snapping the studs off, when you tighten up again. The plastic nut are almost just finger tight.
Your challenge will be getting the system down, moving a bit of lines and their fasteners out of the way. Fairly straight forward, if you have the car on a lift.

I'll send you some info in a PM

JB911

Good to see that Pmafia was able to remove the switch with the 27mm deep socket with the unit in place(post #171)
If someone could figure out how to order the switch direct from Suco for $50(website in German only) providing it comes set to the right pressure when ordered, and shipping is reasonable, it would be great to have in hand for future issues.

Bovien, you could try disconnecting the banjo bolts at the bottom of the shocks and see what that's like. Activate Lift with engine running and the compressor will run and you can feel air coming out of the lines. I replaced the copper washers just in case(2 for each banjo, so 4 in total)
Number 9 on the PET diagram.

My Craftsman compressor has a valve at the bottom of the tank to drain moisture, but how does this system purge water/moisture which surely must accumulate?