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I like to enjoy my RS. Maintained well (over probably) but I like to drive it. I follow a really regimented maintenance schedule, oil/tranny every 4-6 days depending on miles on track, brake flush often, plugs at least yearly, etc... Well, car was due before next weekend 3-day GGR/Central coast event at button willow raceway.
I usually have the shop (BBI Autosport) do fluids, it's messy and their rates for the oil/tranny change are fair. Plus they look over the car. I'll do brakes, plugs, belts, and most other things myself. But since the car is now 9 years old with quite a few track miles (99% from me) I thought it would be good to give a deeper look at the motor. So since plugs were due, had the shop do a leakdown test.
Maintenance:
--oil/filter change - I use Torco SR5R
--Tranny fluid change - Tried Motul (I think 75-140 competition), felt good, as good as Delvac - Bill Rader suggests Motul these days... so we tried it, liked, will run again
--Compression / Leakdown test
--new plugs
--inspect: coils, belt, pulleys, PS pump, ac pump, brakes, suspension, etc...
--pull overrun codes
--pull blackstone sample of oil
Car got a clean bill of health. Leak down on all cylinders less than 1% and even across all cylinders. Compression (forget number) but all normal and consistent. Plugs look great (1 year old, 25 or 30 track days). No change in Overruns, that was my 5 type 1, she was a virgin. :-)
Oh one more thing... I've been running Race Technologies RE10 pads with Brembo Type III rotors, I just swapped rings before this last event and put new pads on. I went with the Type V front this time around. I like it. It has SLIGHTLY less bite than the Type III (but much longer life, it's a race car endurance rotor). However, with Type V in the rear it feels like the bias moved slightly to the rear and the car feels better on threshold braking. The ABS system seems to be happier. I'll have a more thorough report after Buttonwillow this next weekend. I'm super happy with the RT/Brembo setup, last a LONG time and very consistent.
So yeah... these motors if maintained are pretty damn stout!
Nice suspension parts. Will last forever when you keep them that clean.
Is there a reason why you use that particular Bosch plug?
Car is actually filthy - 350 miles / 3 days on track at SMMR... car went right to shop for work.
Its the OEM plug spec, Bosch Y-5-DDC / 99917012990. The last set had blue markings on the ceramic. The new set has green. No idea why. I think porsche likes to get $35 each for their box with the same plug. Bosch is $9 each. Markings are identical, although the porsche plug has a brass colored electrical connection on the top of the plug.
Spyerx, in a nutshell what's the procedure to change plugs? Locally its around a $600 job including labour (from the OPC), thinking of doing it myself.
Spyerx, in a nutshell what's the procedure to change plugs? Locally its around a $600 job including labour (from the OPC), thinking of doing it myself.
Jack up rear of car, pull heat shields on side of heads, remove coils, remove plugs, replace.If you have side mufflers it's tight, but can be done without removing. Without it's super easy, lots of room. Basic set of tools plus a plug socket is all thats needed.
If you're OK doing basic work this is a 2-3 hour job at most (and that's going SLOW) about $75 in parts of the OEM Bosch plugs.
You may want to consider a coil change if they are original, or at least inspect them insure they have no cracking.
Actually easier to change than the write-up led me to believe.
Just get under there. It will become obvious what needs to be done.
My personal experience on cars, trucks, and motorcycles is that most manufacturers specify to use 22 ft-lbs of torque on the plugs.
Nothing more than enough to barely crush the washers, which I don't recommend using more than once.