DIY: 997.2 GT3 spark plug changes and lesions learned
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
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Hi – I see several DIY for 997.1 and 996 spark plug changes but none for 997.2 so thought I would post this.
Background is: Dealer wants $1100 for a major service. Yikes. Since I do my own fluid changes and brakes I know I can do spark plugs and inspect the entire underside myself. Surprise came when I learned local dealer wants $325 for 6 spark plugs. Those are airplane prices! Searching on line I found Suncoast offers 6 plugs for $199.
Plugs arrived in a Porsche box. However they are Bosch Y5DDC. Looking on line, I found them in a multitude of websites for $9 - $12 each. Even the auto parts store a mile away stated they could order them for $12 each. Hmm, call Suncoast who offered to accept a return. They did state they do not know for sure, but they believe Porsche tests and gaps the plugs. I decided to not chance quality to try and save a few bucks so I used the "Porsche" plugs.
Second lesson learned: I should not have waited until the maintenance cycle (mileage suggested) as the electrodes were visibly worn. Not worn away – just visibly showing signs of wear. This job is so easy I think I will change at every 15,000 miles in the future.
On to the plug replacement:
1. I jacked up the rear, placed on jack stands, and removed rear wheels. This allowed me to “sit” in the wheel well and reach everything.
2. Remove blue wire that is clipped to the heat shield and remove two heat shield bolts. Note heat shield attaches with a reverse torques bolt. Craftsman offers a universal function socket set that works on all fasteners including reverse torques heads. Red arrows show where heat shield attaches.
3. Unclip (push in on tab and pull up) to remove wire. Yellow arrow (middle cylinder disconnected)
4. Use a number 30 torques driver to remove bolt holding coil. Blue arrow shows front cylinder is attached and middle cylinder is removed.
5. Second picture shows the coil pack removed
6. Third picture is looking into head showing top of spark plug.
7. I used a craftsman spark plug socket (has a padded sleeve on the inside) on a 6 inch extension to remove the plug. Note, it was not necessary to neither remove nor loosen the mufflers nor did I need a universal joint.
8. Picture 4 simply shows the end of the extension while it is attached to the plug.
9. Both cylinders that are closest to the rear of the car each have another wire assembly in front of them that must be removed first. This wire clip must be pushed upward to disengage. Yellow arrow on picture 5. On the passenger side of the car, I found it easier to reach in from under the rear bumper to access.
10. Inserting the plugs made me a little nervous as the only way to insert the plugs is to put them in the socket on the end of the extension. I just went slow and made sure I held the extension level and use very light finger tip pressure only as I engaged the threads.
11. Put coil pack back on and attach wires. Then install the heat shield.
12. One item I noticed, everything only tightens to “snug”, and not even a hand tighten. So be careful not to over torque.
Hope this DIY saves you money and you have as much fun as I did doing this. Whole job is less than an hour including taking pictures and a coffee break.
Background is: Dealer wants $1100 for a major service. Yikes. Since I do my own fluid changes and brakes I know I can do spark plugs and inspect the entire underside myself. Surprise came when I learned local dealer wants $325 for 6 spark plugs. Those are airplane prices! Searching on line I found Suncoast offers 6 plugs for $199.
Plugs arrived in a Porsche box. However they are Bosch Y5DDC. Looking on line, I found them in a multitude of websites for $9 - $12 each. Even the auto parts store a mile away stated they could order them for $12 each. Hmm, call Suncoast who offered to accept a return. They did state they do not know for sure, but they believe Porsche tests and gaps the plugs. I decided to not chance quality to try and save a few bucks so I used the "Porsche" plugs.
Second lesson learned: I should not have waited until the maintenance cycle (mileage suggested) as the electrodes were visibly worn. Not worn away – just visibly showing signs of wear. This job is so easy I think I will change at every 15,000 miles in the future.
On to the plug replacement:
1. I jacked up the rear, placed on jack stands, and removed rear wheels. This allowed me to “sit” in the wheel well and reach everything.
2. Remove blue wire that is clipped to the heat shield and remove two heat shield bolts. Note heat shield attaches with a reverse torques bolt. Craftsman offers a universal function socket set that works on all fasteners including reverse torques heads. Red arrows show where heat shield attaches.
3. Unclip (push in on tab and pull up) to remove wire. Yellow arrow (middle cylinder disconnected)
4. Use a number 30 torques driver to remove bolt holding coil. Blue arrow shows front cylinder is attached and middle cylinder is removed.
5. Second picture shows the coil pack removed
6. Third picture is looking into head showing top of spark plug.
7. I used a craftsman spark plug socket (has a padded sleeve on the inside) on a 6 inch extension to remove the plug. Note, it was not necessary to neither remove nor loosen the mufflers nor did I need a universal joint.
8. Picture 4 simply shows the end of the extension while it is attached to the plug.
9. Both cylinders that are closest to the rear of the car each have another wire assembly in front of them that must be removed first. This wire clip must be pushed upward to disengage. Yellow arrow on picture 5. On the passenger side of the car, I found it easier to reach in from under the rear bumper to access.
10. Inserting the plugs made me a little nervous as the only way to insert the plugs is to put them in the socket on the end of the extension. I just went slow and made sure I held the extension level and use very light finger tip pressure only as I engaged the threads.
11. Put coil pack back on and attach wires. Then install the heat shield.
12. One item I noticed, everything only tightens to “snug”, and not even a hand tighten. So be careful not to over torque.
Hope this DIY saves you money and you have as much fun as I did doing this. Whole job is less than an hour including taking pictures and a coffee break.
#2
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Excellent write-up! Very clear and easy to understand.
You have my vote for DIY instructions of the year.
Thanks.
You have my vote for DIY instructions of the year.
Thanks.
#4
Drifting
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It is a very easy job. 2/10
I'm not sure if Kas took pictures but we did this on Saturday.
Took us 45 minutes to do spark plugs on his car.
Spark plugs, you can get them from Sonnen Porsche for 10.87 each. FYI.
I'm not sure if Kas took pictures but we did this on Saturday.
Took us 45 minutes to do spark plugs on his car.
Spark plugs, you can get them from Sonnen Porsche for 10.87 each. FYI.
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#5
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My shop did the plugs for half the price that you got quoted from the stealership. The big question is are those $12 plugs the right ones to use on our cars instead of spending $200+ for the ones from Porsche?
#6
Drifting
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#7
Race Director
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I dont understand the prices of these Plugs. the Bosch Y5DDC is the factory plug, so i dont get how they can charge those prices? i think a paid less than $8 at AutohausAz.
As i stated above it took me a leisurely 2 hrs. So a trained tech, w/ a lift, could do it in 1hr + cost of plugs for say $200?
I just dont get it.
As i stated above it took me a leisurely 2 hrs. So a trained tech, w/ a lift, could do it in 1hr + cost of plugs for say $200?
I just dont get it.
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#9
Rennlist Member
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Thanks for the write up. Very nice, esp with pics.
That's nothing. Over in Ferrari land, I needed a temp sensor, Bosch part. $12 from Rock auto packaged in a plastic bag. $225 from the F-dealer but its justified because it comes in a really cool yellow box with a horse on it....
Read the post above ...hate replying to these, as the answer has already been stated. Yes he got the right ones. Same ****, only difference is the box it comes in. Neil at sonnen told me " you want to pay $40 bucks extra for the plugs that come in a Porsche box ? " ![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
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#10
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Excellent write-up. Thanks for taking the time.
Do you have a picture of the old plugs that you can post? Mileage on plugs? (I assume 15K)
What was the final torque, or just "wrench" tight?
Do you have a picture of the old plugs that you can post? Mileage on plugs? (I assume 15K)
What was the final torque, or just "wrench" tight?
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
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GRINBOB: Maintenance schedule calls for plug change at 30,000 and I have just under this on the clock. I believe the RS calls for a plug change at 24,000. I will attach two photo’s of one of the old and a new. Sorry the focus is a little blurry. Next time I will change earlier – especially since I know I can buy the same plug, in a fancy box, for $12! ![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
I did not have a torque setting for the plugs. I seem to recall I read here on the forum it is 9 foot pounds. But do not quote me on this as I am not sure. Basically I took note of how easy all six plugs (as well as the torque screws holding on the coil assemblies) came loose so I simply hand snugged them to what felt like the same amount -- far from a scientific measurement. No mussel involved that is for sure. I just screwed them in to ensure good contact to what felt like they were seated.
Hope this helps…
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I did not have a torque setting for the plugs. I seem to recall I read here on the forum it is 9 foot pounds. But do not quote me on this as I am not sure. Basically I took note of how easy all six plugs (as well as the torque screws holding on the coil assemblies) came loose so I simply hand snugged them to what felt like the same amount -- far from a scientific measurement. No mussel involved that is for sure. I just screwed them in to ensure good contact to what felt like they were seated.
Hope this helps…
#14
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Nice write-up Space Coast, as Enrique (F1CrazyDriver) posted above, we just did the swap on our 7.1 GT3s. My car was long overdue on changing plugs as the prior owners never replaced them. My car has 43K miles, and fortunately the plugs didn't look too bad despite being in their since factory. I will say that i've noticed that the car's response has improved with the new plugs.
With respect to tightening we also didn't use a torque wrench, but did go past hand tightening by about a quarter turn on the wrench.
With respect to tightening we also didn't use a torque wrench, but did go past hand tightening by about a quarter turn on the wrench.
#15
Rennlist Member
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The price of the Porsche plugs is very simple. These cars require little maintenance, so Porsche wants to stick you for at least a grand during the service visit.
And the plugs are -IDENTICAL-. Same thing as buying a Mahle oil filter without the "Porsche" label.
I have done tons of GT1 spark plug jobs and never use a torque wrench. The dealer doesn't either since its not practical nor are the reading you'll get accurate (due to all the extensions).
I tighten them on the "tight side" as I have seen too many come loose and start whistling.
And the plugs are -IDENTICAL-. Same thing as buying a Mahle oil filter without the "Porsche" label.
I have done tons of GT1 spark plug jobs and never use a torque wrench. The dealer doesn't either since its not practical nor are the reading you'll get accurate (due to all the extensions).
I tighten them on the "tight side" as I have seen too many come loose and start whistling.
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