ard

I would like to get the wisdom of the RL crowd on a specific issue with my relatively new to me 7.1 RS (~18K miles and no track usage to date).

Between now and the New Year I will be having the engine out to have the coolant pipe fix done. In driving the car in a spirited manner I have run up against the known 2nd-to-3rd shift issue more than once.

1. Is replacing the shifter cables with Cup or Numeric cables a complementary (in terms of labor, access) repair while the engine is out or is the amount of labor involved the same with the engine in? I am open to suggestions as to which shifter cables to choose. In my past experience, chosing Porsche parts has generally worked out well but I haven't had the benefit of doing any side-by-side comparsions.
2. Would replacing the OEM motor mounts with aftermarkets ones (haven't settled on which ones yet, RSS? WEVO? again open to suggestions) alone without replacing the shifter cables help noticably with the shifting issue? I generally hestitate to through parts at problems unless I fully understand the problem and how to solve it.

I have some concerns over bringing additional NVH into the cabin. The Cup shifter cables have been cited in some posts as being noisy but it seems not a universal problem, although NVH can be rather subjective. The car may see a little bit of track usage down the road but will mostly go on longer trips to stretch its legs, and I prefer a tolerable amount of squeaks and rattles

I would appreciate insights from folks.

TIA

/alex

Spyerx

Not really easier.
Cup cables do make more noise. Tolerable for me.
Solid trans mounts make a LOT MORE noise so skip that
Wevo for sure, and no noticeable noise from those.

That said I'm surprised you are getting 2-3 issues on the street. Only times over ever had that is flat out in 2nd at redline pulling. 1.2 g typically on a left hander. Hard to imagine that on the street :-)

mooty

b/n cup cable and other cable, get cup. i have all the cables, get cup.
shifter, get cup as well
some like CAE some other numeric.... subjective, i like cup
but cable is no brainer, cup all the way
you will hear the noise with any cable but it's like the flywheel rattle noise, your GF/wife will hear it. you will internalize it after a day.

powdrhound

Easy. PMNA Cup cables and cup shifter. Proven stuff. I use these with the OEM transmission mount, 964RS semisolid engine mounts, and the OEM LWFW. Extra noise (hum) is negligible and can only be heard with the windows up. I don't get the infatuation of the failure prone numeric stuff. I think some people falsely equate aftermarket with better.

Ur20v

Powedrhound, everything is subjective- I have Numeric shifter and cables and run them for 2+ years now with no fault- people have suffered failures with OEM and CAE so luck of the draw.

RSS or revo engine mounts are a given, the transmition mount made the biggets difference in feel and gear change accuracy but you will get noticable NVM but like mooty said most can 'internalise' but some hate and go back to stock.

Engine out gives little advantage to changing the gear change cables as most of the work to gain access is in the car removing the centre console, once the cars in the air and the under tray is off access is easy enough. Probably saves you 10 minutes.

Just my 2p worth.

powdrhound

I am sure it's happened but I've just never come across anyone that has had a PMNA shifter or cables fail. On the other hand, I've read numerous threads about people who have experienced failures of the bearings on the Numeric shifter, shifted rods failing, and issues with their cable ends breaking. Even if the failure rate is small, I just would not want to take that chance as I have personally over the years had more issues with aftermarket parts and the none with the PMNA stuff which includes suspension parts, shifter parts, ABS unit, etc, etc. Not arguing, but that's just been my experience..

runet

Cup shifter is 996 unit, there is no 997 correct?

Function-First

The Cup shifter is really just the standard throw 996 shifter assembly - the only difference is the plastic bushings are replaced with aluminum bushings (plastic lined). I'll post a full write-up on a Cup shifter disassembly and teardown later this week.

As an improvement over the stock (and Cup) shifters, I released the SHIFT-RIGHT Solution, which replaces the major pivot points with ball bearings and billet aluminum components.

Johnny DB

Any reviews on this setup?

Dervish

Replacing cables is easiest on a lift with the transmission carrier removed. Having the engine out would probably mean the car is in the air already and transmission may also have been removed or is easy to access. The hard part is knocking the rubber bung out from inside the cabin and then replacing after. You really need access without the transmission carrier in place to get the bung back in with all 3 of the cables running through. Also, use plenty of silicon spray.
Removal of centre console etc only takes minutes. Tip for hand brake, remove the nut under the handbrake first before removing the other 3 and do reverse for re-fitting.

Rick GT3

anyone?, reviews???

ngng

might as well delete the radio too lol

Function-First

Here's a review from the 996 Turbo forum:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...l#post12645192

"
Highly recommend, whether you have a stock shifter or a short shift kit, it removed all the slop in the pivots and transfer mechanisms. I think it actually helps the 2-3 shift smoothness as well where it used to hang up if you tried to force it too quickly before, maybe since there is ZERO play now, it's just straight shooting.

Very satisifed
"

993GT

the urethane/SS trans mounts add a bunch of NVH, but they work VERY well in shifting accuracy even under load/cornering/etc...I have ~double the torque and can easily make a 2-3 shift coming out of a corner, stock mount balked a few times...I have Torque Solutions engine/trans 75A mounts ATM..

mooty

cable intall, no joke, LOTS OF VASELINE, KY JELLY WHATEVER YOU LIKE. it makes life easier.