Spyerx

Well sure I could. But I do like to drive it in the canyons too.

usctrojanGT3

You could always buy a used 2015 blue GT3 for that in 2 years.

johnrod

The guy with the BMW is right, you should have 3/4 of a tank of gas when going through the drive cycle. then shut off the car, let cool then turn on the ignition with out starting for 20sec.
It should work.

NAM VET

Yesterday I had my daughter's Mini up again to the Charlotte dealer, to install a scratched right front side light (I found it complex to replace, and besides, I cut my finger on a piece of broken plastic trying to do my self) and to get the state inspection. I had to drive it some miles to get the re-set ECU cleared to pass the NC state inspection. It worked.

I asked the service rep if NC had a law (I live in SC) if all codes had to be cleared to pass a NC safety inspection. He said yes, so then I asked how all the run down, dilapidated cars I see on the NC roads could possibly have no codes and a legal inspection. He said they don't pass, and are illegal.

I suppose the NC law that mandates no codes to have your car registered is a real boon to auto repair and maintenance businesses, but greatly contributes to huge numbers of illegal and hence uninsured cars on the road. I can see a law ensuring reasonable tire safety, excessive smoking, non-working lights, and actual faults affecting the safety of other cars and drivers. But there are many parameters an ECU observes that have no real impact on a car's safety.

My opinion is that like many other state rules, the NC inspection law is mostly there to ensure a steady source of business income. Yet the real result is more uninsured and unregistered cars on the road.

I live in SC, and we have no such laws. Of course, I see a lot of cars on my state's road that are obviously in a dangerous condition, and I have read that something like about 1/4 of the cars driving around are uninsured. Like a lot of laws legislators pass which really don't address an actual issue.

Non the less, living in SC lets me have a Sharkwerk's track exhaust on my car, and let enjoy my previous Cobra Replica, which couldn't pass any sort of state test.

Compromises.....

And all the best.....

Spyerx

^^^^ the crazy thing about ca is we don't have inspections. We only have the bi annual smog check, you could have a wheel falling off and missing lights and oil dripping down the road but if you have the codes set or pass the dyno sniffer test you are golden. You should see the pieces of crap on the road here. And like where you are at many uninsured and many unsafe.

I will say this though, I grew up in SoCal and when I was a kid the pollution was so bad it would burn your throat on some days when breathing. That doesn't happen any more. Is this due to the smog check? Probably not, but the emissions requirements the State did require had an effect over time to improve things. I don't have a green agenda but this is one thing and experienced with my own two eyes.

Regarding getting the codes to set.... With Porsche, drive the car, drive cycles are the key. Not really any secret sauce here.

usctrojanGT3

I like what Nevada does...you go to a small kiosk place, they plug their computer into your OBDII, let the car idle for 20-30 seconds, and pay $20-$25. Easy peazy.

dejavo0

I'm having this issue with the Secondary Air, everything else is ready. its been around 500 miles already since it was reset and started many times. I think I can hear the air pump running when I first start the car. Any advice?
GT3RS 997.2

thanks

Spyerx

The secondary air passed after a few cold starts.
Try bringing to a shop that has a piwis. On mine they could force all but evap and one other code.
You may have an issue....

phase12xs13

SDCLTD

I am informed that in CA the EVAP 'Not Ready' is acceptable if ALL other monitors are "Ready". My problem: All monitors test "Ready" except for the CAT.........That is not acceptable, even though all other I/M test 'Ready'. And, I have performed multiple Drive Cycles and cannot get the Cat to reflect 'Ready', even though there is no CEL light nor other anomolies. I've discussed this recently with a Porsche Tech Rep, and he states that everyone is posting the BMW Drive Cycle - not the Porsche Drive Cycle. And, from what I've learned, Porsche does not publishe an official Drive Cycle. Nonetheless, if the BMW Drive Cycle works [and many individuals have stated it does] then use it. However, I have read [or been shown] the official Porsche Maintenance Manual [MY2012] for OBDII 'Readiness' applicable for the "Oxygen Storage Capacity" - aka 'Catalytic Convertor' - and the Drive Cycle parameters are <3,500 RPM [Not 3,000 RPM as stated for the BMW Drive Cycle] and the speed is between >50km/h [i.e. 18MPH] and <150km/h [i.e. 93MPH]. Again, if the BMW Drive Cycle works, that's great! After 1200+/- miles, multiple Drive Cycles, and all other monitors reflecting 'Ready', I am turning the car over to the Porsche Tech Rep, and then possibly a CARB Referee for an exemption. BTW: It is completely stock. Very Frustrating ............ But from what I've read & what is shared by many on several Porsche owners, I am not the only one going through this frustration. Even the 'STAR' Smog station Manager [after 2 failures] stated that nothing is wrong with my car, but he cannot issue a Smog Certificate with the Cat 'Not Ready'. Porsche's seem to have a 'Known Issue' with this matter, yet I've found nothing of assistance from PCNA in providing official Drive Cycle information. To me, that is unacceptable, and I've owned 3 Porsches.

Evolved Rs

What we do with BMWs that need monitors to be set is 15 city miles. Keep rpm below 3k. Then 15 highway miles, rpm below 3k and speed no higher than 60 mph, I usually just set cruise to 57-58mph. Usually gets most monitors ready within 1 drive cycle. Have tried on multiple make vehicles and usually get the same results. From what Ive noticed is that o2 and cat usually ready up during the highway speed portion of the drive cycle.