I taught myself in a solid axle 2001 Mustang from 2003-2008.
Cost about the same as my GT3's from 2008-2013 to run, only it broke much more and nowhere near as fun as a GT3.

 

What kills me is track insurance. $7000 for a 15 event pack. Buy them one at a time or a few at a time and it's worse than that.

 

you can buy my Cobra R to have as a beater

 

Lindsey

Be sure to check the rear trailing arm attachment point on the frame as they are showing signs of cracking. Relatively easy fix if caught early. If you get an E36M3 pm me and I will put you in contact with a source for 225/45 17 continental challenge take offs for around $50 each delivered.

Peter

 

Kewl!

 

I need 275's.

 

For the stang. 17 or 18?

Peter

 

Peter thanks
Mooty, do you think even one that comes up good on a ppi from an experienced shop will be a money pit just for 15 events then sell it?

 

Dave....come back to the porsche race world.....vintage car

Ill be at the Mitty in April at RA....come by

 

very hard to sell race cars no and if buts
buy it
drive t to the ground
I crash all my race cars. I hate selling to low ballers so when I'm done I kiss the wall r jump the fence

 

not bad
my last loss was 100,000
well maybe a tad less
now I avoid driving with idiots who think they are gods gift to driving

 

17.

 

Lindsey, I have had mine since I ordered it new from the factory (in order to get no sun roof) in 1997. I started tracking it in 2002. I still have it and beat the **** out of it at every opportunity. Ask Jenk or someone else how hard I drive it. It has 102,000 miles on the original, stock motor that runs pump gas. Only mods to motor are better intake & no catalyst/better exhaust. Of those 102,000 miles, probably 50,000 are on track... Maybe more. Who knows?

You tell me whether that sounds like a money pit. HINT: it's not.

 

Couple of things to be careful of. Make sure it has a good leakdown and compression text. These are interference engines and if you miss a shift you will bounce the valves off the pistons. Plastic radiator end caps are a wear item. Most upgrade to all aluminum radiator. Water pump should be Stewart Warner or at least new OEM. Transmissions and rear ends are pretty reliable. Don't worry about trying to make more power with cams etc if is a waste of money. Some headers and light weight exhaust and stop there. These cars are about handling not power. Stock brakes are ok pedal gets long as they wear but they work. Best pads are PFC as they seem to taper the least.

ps Spec Miata is cheaper

Peter

 

And fat girls are easy to score

Bottom line....you don't want your friends to know you spend time in either of them