512bb

Please do yourself a favor and fully document this. I read the recall letter and in there Porsche says that "they are not aware of any failures........." but we all know that they have had failures and I believe the legal wagons are circling.

I hope this gets sorted as the CL wheels on the Porsche's truly scare me. As an aside, I cannot think of any racing team saying "it's OK for the CL to be a bit loose as it needs to settle in". Argh.

edwin814

My front driver side CL pin is also stuck/jammed to the CL nut. I'm taking it to the dealer later this week and have them check it out.

But the mating area of between the locking pin and the CL nut doesn't need to be greased though.

mdrums

Like I said...greased per the workshop manual.

Bono

Space Coast: I have had my 2011 GT3 for a short period of time, and I am one of a few CL owners on these forums that has not thrown in the towel on the design. However, I have done as much work as possible to understand how some have failed, and my opinion is that there is NO room for error in properly greasing and torque. If there is any play at all in how the wheel fits against the hub, this is where the failures are occuring. They have been braking at the base of the threads. The hub is engineered to support hub to wheel contact, but if the actual hollow hub with inside threads is stressed by being asked to support the torque that is created by a loose wheel torqued at any less than the optimal level, they have broken. Your situation sounds absolutely scary to me and I would not track your car if the dealership can't make it right/perfect. My plans for the early part of the season are to continue to track with the CLs, but at the first sight of anything less than perfect mechanics, I will not take any chances. And absolutely No shortcuts, 1) a large torque bar that has been calibrated and can torque up to exactly 444lbs (do not use a torque multiplier to torque), 2) wheels have to be torqued with the car off the ground so you either need help or buy a mechanism that applies the brakes for you while you are on outside of car to torque, 3) print out the greasing procedures and follow them exactly..grease the parts that are supposed to be greased to the proper thickness, and do not grease the parts that are to be left ungreased. Bottom line for me is that I'm losing my patience with the CLs, but haven't yet thrown in the towel. Good luck and stay safe.

medpilot105

Space Coast: reporting back from my previous post. Wheels off today, no abnormal wear, no stuck locking pins and no evidence of loosening torque.

Let us know what your dealer finds.

montoya

I have had all these symptoms as well. Loosing torque is scarry to say the least. Savy reviewed my symptoms, and while initially we thought it was an aftermarket wheel, it later occured with stock wheels. I follow the instructions to the letter, so I too am at a loss.

So- I have now done the complete maintenance front and rear, which in addition to the recall, calls for replacing the front hubs and bearings and the centerlock nuts.

Hmmm, curiously the centerlock nuts have a new part number effective in January.

DavidNR

Noticed this change in torque while at the track. Especially if its chilly in the morning and temps increase significantly during the day. Passed it off to heat cycling and change in temp when torquing. I wish there was a specification to accurately and reliably measure the proper length or depth of the hub to check if there is any stretching or elongation. If the hub tension was enough to exceed hub yield strength at some point it could be one explanation for the loss of CL nut torque.

daveo4porsche

friends don't let friends drive with Centerlocks…

mooty

u can complain about porsche should do this or that. but realistically, there are only a few things you can do. let me lay it out for you all.

1. sell the damn car cheap. 3.8RS should be about $60,000. pls let me have first dib.
2. put the 5 lug on if you dont trust CL
3. keep the CL and you could be fine like trakcar, savvy and izzone. they are all fast and all no prob.

none of the above cures it all. but you have three choices. take your pick... i actually am doing all three since i cant decide on anything.

NBTBRV8

After nearly 5 months of ownership I decided to check my centrelocks today more out of curiosity as I haven't removed my wheels yet. When I bought it in November last, the dealer did a major service as part of the deal. After pulling my caps off, 3 out of the 4 centrelocks weren't locked and I had to click them in to place.

You would have though the dealer would have made sure of this...

DC640

Just to add...
1) If 60k is lowball, I will offer $1 above mooty's offer and sell the 3.8RS to me
2) Convert to 5 lug, sleep at night with peace.. track the car in peace - no more problem.. just a bit lighter in your wallet.. but this forum will make your wallet light

montoya

Unless they're Cup car centerlocks you mean.

We're all familiar with your build...

512bb

Great right up and I believe part of the answer and cause for concern is written above. In my opinion the hub could NOT have been designed for 444 Lb-Ft of torque as that was not the original specs (don't forget that some hub are failing also). 444 Lb-Ft is such a high number that to get it right is very difficult and don't forget that while torquing the pressure has to be increased and applied smoothly (not bouncing on the torque arm). That is tough to do with these kind of torque numbers.

Secondly, any part that has such loads and is a single point of failure should have as close to a fail proof design as possible. This design does not as the greasing procedure is way more complex with ridiculous tolerances to be workable. The thickness of grease! For crying out loud...........come on.

Apologies for the rant, but please do not mess with the CL as they have failed. Best of luck and I hope a reasonable solution is found :-)

Space Coast GT3

Thank you everyone for the great input. Finally back home. Little bit of luck on my side as today is our local dealer's annual tech session for our PCA region. I met with our tech's (two of whom were at the track last weekend). I have appointment to take the car in this week. They, as well as owner of the dealership stated they are committed to fixing my car right, “even if we have to change out every part”. I am remaining optimistic. When I got home this afternoon I pulled the wheels and took a photo’s I will post below.

Discovered a couple of new items: Both rear wheels had to be “tugged” at to come off the hub. Upon inspection, I notice two of the rotor hat pins have abrasion marks or scuffs. Not a deep gouge but definitely more than the typical marks of the wheel being taken off and on. I still think the D___ CL’s loosened and the lock saved my butt. Savyboy, sure welcome your thoughts on these. I am running stock wheels with Michelin Pilot Super Sports. Took off my PCCB’s last year and I am running GiroDisk rotors.

Space Coast GT3

Passenger side rear: