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Brake rotor recommendations

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Old 01-22-2013, 08:54 PM
  #46  
Thork'sGT3
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DP95. Thanks for the response. You are quite right with the ate's (2005 Cayanne Turbo). I ended up ordering the fronts through RockAuto.com in Canada. $100.48 each for the fronts. Ended up ordering the rears for $227.00 from a Midas shop in Victoria, BC. I happen to know the owner (my brother). He will bring them to Kelowna in May for the Knox Hillclimb.
Harry Dogs Grrrrage was a tremendous help and had great pricing on the front and rear rotors as well! Rears through them were $210.00 each!

BT
Old 01-28-2013, 06:56 PM
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Drew_K
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UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the advice. I went with slotted Cayenne S rotors (350 mm) for the front at around $250 for the pair and OEM rotors for the rear. I installed them along with the PFC08's this weekend and everything fit fine. I also bled the system using Motul 600 and then bedded in the new pads.

With a little temperature in the PFC's, they stop STRONG. I can't wait to try them out at COTA this weekend at the MVP event. Only downside is they do squeal pretty loudly when slowing to a stop. I'll drive them for a bit to see if it goes away, but at the current noise level I'll probably swap OEM back in until the next track event.
Old 01-28-2013, 10:26 PM
  #48  
deputydog95
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Originally Posted by Thork'sGT3
DP95. Thanks for the response. You are quite right with the ate's (2005 Cayanne Turbo). I ended up ordering the fronts through RockAuto.com in Canada. $100.48 each for the fronts. Ended up ordering the rears for $227.00 from a Midas shop in Victoria, BC. I happen to know the owner (my brother). He will bring them to Kelowna in May for the Knox Hillclimb.
Harry Dogs Grrrrage was a tremendous help and had great pricing on the front and rear rotors as well! Rears through them were $210.00 each!

BT
I hope you got GT3 rears, as I don't think the cayenne rears are compatible. Just the fronts. I've run a ton of cayenne fronts now. All the 350mm are great.

Originally Posted by Drew_K
UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the advice. I went with slotted Cayenne S rotors (350 mm) for the front at around $250 for the pair and OEM rotors for the rear. I installed them along with the PFC08's this weekend and everything fit fine. I also bled the system using Motul 600 and then bedded in the new pads.

With a little temperature in the PFC's, they stop STRONG. I can't wait to try them out at COTA this weekend at the MVP event. Only downside is they do squeal pretty loudly when slowing to a stop. I'll drive them for a bit to see if it goes away, but at the current noise level I'll probably swap OEM back in until the next track event.
Please get rid of the Motul 600 before COTA. It is almost guaranteed you will boil your fluid. Upgrade to Motul 660 (that's what I use with great success so far) or SRF. Endless fluid is good too. Motul 600 for whatever reason is awful.... Motul 660 is double the price of Motul 600 and half the price of SRF. 600 can't handle track duties. I see students try and run it all the time. Also boils every time.
Old 01-28-2013, 10:37 PM
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M3EvoBR
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SRF or Endless.... DD is spot on that.
Old 01-28-2013, 10:41 PM
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deputydog95
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Or Motul 660. SRF is ancient technology and is subject to being hydroscopic more than the other two from what I've been told. But it is tried and true. I bleed as infrequently or less than SRF users with 660. Can't go wrong with any of those 3.
Old 01-28-2013, 10:54 PM
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85Gold
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SRF dry boiling point 590 degrees
Motul RBF 600 dry boiling point 594 degrees
Motul RBF 660 dry boiling point 617 degrees

I have used and still do RBF 600 and never boiled the fluid tried the SRF $$$ and didn't see any benefit except a much lighter wallet Just another point of view where I feel spending more $$ isn't always better.

Peter
Old 01-28-2013, 11:09 PM
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deputydog95
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You run tiny little disposable cars that only weight 2300 pounds

I've literally seen everything from corvettes to 997 turbos boil Motul 600. And these are students running at student speeds. I know on paper it seems like the 600 should be work but for whatever reason it fails every time.

My only complaint, and it has nothing to do with performance, is that the Motul 660 comes out of the bottle dark. Hard to tell if its been compromised.
Old 01-28-2013, 11:16 PM
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85Gold
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Originally Posted by deputydog95
You run tiny little disposable cars that only weight 2300 pounds

I've literally seen everything from corvettes to 997 turbos boil Motul 600. And these are students running at student speeds. I know on paper it seems like the 600 should be work but for whatever reason it fails every time.

My only complaint, and it has nothing to do with performance, is that the Motul 660 comes out of the bottle dark. Hard to tell if its been compromised.
GT2 ran and GT3 still does run RBF 600 like I said 0 issues

Peter
Old 01-28-2013, 11:18 PM
  #54  
Mvez
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I don't care for Motul 600.....never have.
Old 01-28-2013, 11:22 PM
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deputydog95
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Originally Posted by 85Gold
GT2 ran and GT3 still does run RBF 600 like I said 0 issues

Peter
You're making this too easy. (don't take the bait, don't take the bait, don't take the bait)
Old 01-29-2013, 12:10 AM
  #56  
85Gold
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Originally Posted by deputydog95
You're making this too easy. (don't take the bait, don't take the bait, don't take the bait)
Take the bait I love to catch big fish.

Peter
Old 01-29-2013, 01:08 AM
  #57  
Thork'sGT3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thork'sGT3
DP95. Thanks for the response. You are quite right with the ate's (2005 Cayanne Turbo). I ended up ordering the fronts through RockAuto.com in Canada. $100.48 each for the fronts. Ended up ordering the rears for $227.00 from a Midas shop in Victoria, BC. I happen to know the owner (my brother). He will bring them to Kelowna in May for the Knox Hillclimb.
Harry Dogs Grrrrage was a tremendous help and had great pricing on the front and rear rotors as well! Rears through them were $210.00 each!

BT
I hope you got GT3 rears, as I don't think the cayenne rears are compatible. Just the fronts. I've run a ton of cayenne fronts now. All the 350mm are great.
DP95. You bet, factory for the rear and "ate" for the front. Eddie has been great as well. Got a full set of PFC 08's as well as the trans 75A mounts. He even offered to mail the parts to me so I can avoid the UPS/FedX $$$$ at the border. Great service!

BT
Old 01-29-2013, 10:02 AM
  #58  
deputydog95
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That is a smoking deal on the rears. Any chance RL's could get that same pricing? I get a deal on rears at Suncoast being a local, and it's no where near your pricing.
Old 01-29-2013, 10:03 AM
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deputydog95
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Originally Posted by 85Gold
Take the bait I love to catch big fish.

Peter
Well, you are the guy who gets 12 days out of pads that the rest of us get 7 or 8, so.....
Old 01-29-2013, 10:15 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by 85Gold
SRF dry boiling point 590 degrees
Motul RBF 600 dry boiling point 594 degrees
Motul RBF 660 dry boiling point 617 degrees

I have used and still do RBF 600 and never boiled the fluid tried the SRF $$$ and didn't see any benefit except a much lighter wallet Just another point of view where I feel spending more $$ isn't always better.

Peter
The killer app in SRF is the wet boiling point. All fluids immediately start absorbing moisture and never get a chance to be "dry". So your actual boiling point starts declining the moment you flush the brakes. SRF has a wet point of 520F, Motul 660 is under 400F, and Motul 600 is 420F. While fresh SRF fluid is not really any better than most, you can go a long time in between flushes, and seldom have to bleed them. SRF is the lazy man's fluid.


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