GT3RS 2011 Engine Problems
09-30-2012, 11:22 PM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Paul's 3.8 GT3 RS engine seized at Sebring late last year, Gavin towed it out of Sebring and it got fixed under warranty.
1.- Replace LSD with aftermarket unit
2.- Weld coolant pipes
3.- Re-tighten those loosening cam bolts with Permabond high temp threadlocker
4.- Replace clutch kit with 4.0RS version
5.- Replace flywheel with 4.0RS version
6.- Replace hubs with 5-lugs version, or replace CL hubs every year before your wheels depart randomly and intentionally from car
7.- Replace center muffler with aftermarket muffler before or after it cracks
8.- Eliminate side mufflers before or after they crack
9.- Replace radiator clamps with quality stainless steel Tridon hose clamps
10.- Semi-Solid engine and transmission mounts, and 2005 GT3 Cup shifting cables, to allow 2nd-to-3rd gear upshift under lateral loads
11.- Custom front brake cooling ducts
12.- Replace battery with anti-leak battery (Li-Ion, or sealed Optima)
13.- Replace rear toe arms with toe-links for toe adjustment, before the eccentric bolts wear out or damage the subframe
14.- install brake caliper studs before the uprights threads get stripped
Other than these minor defects, the 997.2 GT3 is perfection on wheels.
1.- Replace LSD with aftermarket unit
2.- Weld coolant pipes
3.- Re-tighten those loosening cam bolts with Permabond high temp threadlocker
4.- Replace clutch kit with 4.0RS version
5.- Replace flywheel with 4.0RS version
6.- Replace hubs with 5-lugs version, or replace CL hubs every year before your wheels depart randomly and intentionally from car
7.- Replace center muffler with aftermarket muffler before or after it cracks
8.- Eliminate side mufflers before or after they crack
9.- Replace radiator clamps with quality stainless steel Tridon hose clamps
10.- Semi-Solid engine and transmission mounts, and 2005 GT3 Cup shifting cables, to allow 2nd-to-3rd gear upshift under lateral loads
11.- Custom front brake cooling ducts
12.- Replace battery with anti-leak battery (Li-Ion, or sealed Optima)
13.- Replace rear toe arms with toe-links for toe adjustment, before the eccentric bolts wear out or damage the subframe
14.- install brake caliper studs before the uprights threads get stripped
Other than these minor defects, the 997.2 GT3 is perfection on wheels.
09-30-2012, 11:33 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Rad, what's #9 about the radiator clamps? First time hearing about that.
As to #4 & 5, the typical path is to upgrade to the 4.0 clutch and pressure plate. The flywheel I believe is the same part as all 3.8's.
As to #4 & 5, the typical path is to upgrade to the 4.0 clutch and pressure plate. The flywheel I believe is the same part as all 3.8's.
10-01-2012, 09:18 AM
#19
9.- Replace radiator clamps with quality stainless steel Tridon hose clamps
Other than Clarke's new car I have never heard about this happening - that of course does not mean it hasn't happened. I saw it happen 2 or 3 times at the Glen on the driver's side and now apparantly he had it happen again on the passenger side. When I saw the actual clamp / cliip, it doesn't look that robust but it does clip in and I'm not sure if there would be space to put a different type of fitting in there.
What is the actual problem - is it an extreme pressure build up? - a temperature expansion of the clip?
Has this happened to anyone else?
If so, what clamp did you use?
My car is the shop so I will likely just have them remove these and use 'better' clamps if there is a known clamp that fits in that location.
Other than Clarke's new car I have never heard about this happening - that of course does not mean it hasn't happened. I saw it happen 2 or 3 times at the Glen on the driver's side and now apparantly he had it happen again on the passenger side. When I saw the actual clamp / cliip, it doesn't look that robust but it does clip in and I'm not sure if there would be space to put a different type of fitting in there.
What is the actual problem - is it an extreme pressure build up? - a temperature expansion of the clip?
Has this happened to anyone else?
If so, what clamp did you use?
My car is the shop so I will likely just have them remove these and use 'better' clamps if there is a known clamp that fits in that location.
10-01-2012, 09:48 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
1.- Replace LSD with aftermarket unit
This is to go faster on fast sweeping tracks, on some tracks like auto cross it might even slow you down?
2.- Weld coolant pipes
Issue solved in .2 seems like. At least no failure in the first 2.5 years of production
3.- Re-tighten those loosening cam bolts with Permabond high temp threadlocker
Issue on some indeed.
4.- Replace clutch kit with 4.0RS version
Agreed, this should be a recall instead of warranty.
5.- Replace flywheel with 4.0RS version
You mean Pressure Plate. Flywheel is fine
6.- Replace hubs with 5-lugs version, or replace CL hubs every year before your wheels depart randomly and intentionally from car
Perhaps, but the longest hardest track driven cars have no issue. So far I have only seen it on non RS cars, often with aftermarket wheels, rear rotors and or mis use. I agree that it is too comples for most casual DE drivers, but if instructions are followed they dont time out in the first say 120 track DAYS.
7.- Replace center muffler with aftermarket muffler before or after it cracks
Only when unplugged. If left with side mufflers, no problem.
8.- Eliminate side mufflers before or after they crack
Only if combined with after matket center muffler and / or very harsh tracks.
9.- Replace radiator clamps with quality stainless steel Tridon hose clamps
Clarkes front clamps where re-assembled at one point, so this is the exception.
10.- Semi-Solid engine and transmission mounts, and 2005 GT3 Cup shifting cables, to allow 2nd-to-3rd gear upshift under lateral loads
Dont agree. with DEM, I have no such issues. I hate CUP shifters and dont understand why people put op with the noise.
11.- Custom front brake cooling ducts
Not needed, the car always stops, even on brake killer tracks in 105F but yes, more cooling is better in combination with aggressive pads.
12.- Replace battery with anti-leak battery (Li-Ion, or sealed Optima)
Why? never heard of an OEM battery problem?
13.- Replace rear toe arms with toe-links for toe adjustment, before the eccentric bolts wear out or damage the subframe.
I think this could be only on the worst bumpy tracks, 90% of DE would neer lose allignment on the 12 track days a year..
14.- install brake caliper studs before the uprights threads get stripped.
With proper care it should be fine. If rushed and clumbsey like me, the $100 upgrade is a safer bet.
This is to go faster on fast sweeping tracks, on some tracks like auto cross it might even slow you down?
2.- Weld coolant pipes
Issue solved in .2 seems like. At least no failure in the first 2.5 years of production
3.- Re-tighten those loosening cam bolts with Permabond high temp threadlocker
Issue on some indeed.
4.- Replace clutch kit with 4.0RS version
Agreed, this should be a recall instead of warranty.
5.- Replace flywheel with 4.0RS version
You mean Pressure Plate. Flywheel is fine
6.- Replace hubs with 5-lugs version, or replace CL hubs every year before your wheels depart randomly and intentionally from car
Perhaps, but the longest hardest track driven cars have no issue. So far I have only seen it on non RS cars, often with aftermarket wheels, rear rotors and or mis use. I agree that it is too comples for most casual DE drivers, but if instructions are followed they dont time out in the first say 120 track DAYS.
7.- Replace center muffler with aftermarket muffler before or after it cracks
Only when unplugged. If left with side mufflers, no problem.
8.- Eliminate side mufflers before or after they crack
Only if combined with after matket center muffler and / or very harsh tracks.
9.- Replace radiator clamps with quality stainless steel Tridon hose clamps
Clarkes front clamps where re-assembled at one point, so this is the exception.
10.- Semi-Solid engine and transmission mounts, and 2005 GT3 Cup shifting cables, to allow 2nd-to-3rd gear upshift under lateral loads
Dont agree. with DEM, I have no such issues. I hate CUP shifters and dont understand why people put op with the noise.
11.- Custom front brake cooling ducts
Not needed, the car always stops, even on brake killer tracks in 105F but yes, more cooling is better in combination with aggressive pads.
12.- Replace battery with anti-leak battery (Li-Ion, or sealed Optima)
Why? never heard of an OEM battery problem?
13.- Replace rear toe arms with toe-links for toe adjustment, before the eccentric bolts wear out or damage the subframe.
I think this could be only on the worst bumpy tracks, 90% of DE would neer lose allignment on the 12 track days a year..
14.- install brake caliper studs before the uprights threads get stripped.
With proper care it should be fine. If rushed and clumbsey like me, the $100 upgrade is a safer bet.
10-01-2012, 09:56 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
1.- Replace LSD with aftermarket unit
This is to go faster on fast sweeping tracks, on some tracks like auto cross it might even slow you down?
2.- Weld coolant pipes
Issue solved in .2 seems like. At least no failure in the first 2.5 years of production
3.- Re-tighten those loosening cam bolts with Permabond high temp threadlocker
Issue on some indeed.
4.- Replace clutch kit with 4.0RS version
Agreed, this should be a recall instead of warranty.
5.- Replace flywheel with 4.0RS version
You mean Pressure Plate. Flywheel is fine
6.- Replace hubs with 5-lugs version, or replace CL hubs every year before your wheels depart randomly and intentionally from car
Perhaps, but the longest hardest track driven cars have no issue. So far I have only seen it on non RS cars, often with aftermarket wheels, rear rotors and or mis use. I agree that it is too comples for most casual DE drivers, but if instructions are followed they dont time out in the first say 120 track DAYS.
7.- Replace center muffler with aftermarket muffler before or after it cracks
Only when unplugged. If left with side mufflers, no problem.
8.- Eliminate side mufflers before or after they crack
Only if combined with after matket center muffler and / or very harsh tracks.
9.- Replace radiator clamps with quality stainless steel Tridon hose clamps
Clarkes front clamps where re-assembled at one point, so this is the exception.
10.- Semi-Solid engine and transmission mounts, and 2005 GT3 Cup shifting cables, to allow 2nd-to-3rd gear upshift under lateral loads
Dont agree. with DEM, I have no such issues. I hate CUP shifters and dont understand why people put op with the noise.
11.- Custom front brake cooling ducts
Not needed, the car always stops, even on brake killer tracks in 105F but yes, more cooling is better in combination with aggressive pads.
12.- Replace battery with anti-leak battery (Li-Ion, or sealed Optima)
Why? never heard of an OEM battery problem?
13.- Replace rear toe arms with toe-links for toe adjustment, before the eccentric bolts wear out or damage the subframe.
I think this could be only on the worst bumpy tracks, 90% of DE would neer lose allignment on the 12 track days a year..
14.- install brake caliper studs before the uprights threads get stripped.
With proper care it should be fine. If rushed and clumbsey like me, the $100 upgrade is a safer bet.
This is to go faster on fast sweeping tracks, on some tracks like auto cross it might even slow you down?
2.- Weld coolant pipes
Issue solved in .2 seems like. At least no failure in the first 2.5 years of production
3.- Re-tighten those loosening cam bolts with Permabond high temp threadlocker
Issue on some indeed.
4.- Replace clutch kit with 4.0RS version
Agreed, this should be a recall instead of warranty.
5.- Replace flywheel with 4.0RS version
You mean Pressure Plate. Flywheel is fine
6.- Replace hubs with 5-lugs version, or replace CL hubs every year before your wheels depart randomly and intentionally from car
Perhaps, but the longest hardest track driven cars have no issue. So far I have only seen it on non RS cars, often with aftermarket wheels, rear rotors and or mis use. I agree that it is too comples for most casual DE drivers, but if instructions are followed they dont time out in the first say 120 track DAYS.
7.- Replace center muffler with aftermarket muffler before or after it cracks
Only when unplugged. If left with side mufflers, no problem.
8.- Eliminate side mufflers before or after they crack
Only if combined with after matket center muffler and / or very harsh tracks.
9.- Replace radiator clamps with quality stainless steel Tridon hose clamps
Clarkes front clamps where re-assembled at one point, so this is the exception.
10.- Semi-Solid engine and transmission mounts, and 2005 GT3 Cup shifting cables, to allow 2nd-to-3rd gear upshift under lateral loads
Dont agree. with DEM, I have no such issues. I hate CUP shifters and dont understand why people put op with the noise.
11.- Custom front brake cooling ducts
Not needed, the car always stops, even on brake killer tracks in 105F but yes, more cooling is better in combination with aggressive pads.
12.- Replace battery with anti-leak battery (Li-Ion, or sealed Optima)
Why? never heard of an OEM battery problem?
13.- Replace rear toe arms with toe-links for toe adjustment, before the eccentric bolts wear out or damage the subframe.
I think this could be only on the worst bumpy tracks, 90% of DE would neer lose allignment on the 12 track days a year..
14.- install brake caliper studs before the uprights threads get stripped.
With proper care it should be fine. If rushed and clumbsey like me, the $100 upgrade is a safer bet.
2 and 14 relevant for the GT3, add 4 and 5 for the RSs....
10-01-2012, 09:57 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wishing I Was At The Track
Posts: 13,618
Received 1,853 Likes
on
960 Posts
1.- Replace LSD with aftermarket unit
This is to go faster on fast sweeping tracks, on some tracks like auto cross it might even slow you down?
2.- Weld coolant pipes
Issue solved in .2 seems like. At least no failure in the first 2.5 years of production
3.- Re-tighten those loosening cam bolts with Permabond high temp threadlocker
Issue on some indeed.
4.- Replace clutch kit with 4.0RS version
Agreed, this should be a recall instead of warranty.
5.- Replace flywheel with 4.0RS version
You mean Pressure Plate. Flywheel is fine
6.- Replace hubs with 5-lugs version, or replace CL hubs every year before your wheels depart randomly and intentionally from car
Perhaps, but the longest hardest track driven cars have no issue. So far I have only seen it on non RS cars, often with aftermarket wheels, rear rotors and or mis use. I agree that it is too comples for most casual DE drivers, but if instructions are followed they dont time out in the first say 120 track DAYS.
7.- Replace center muffler with aftermarket muffler before or after it cracks
Only when unplugged. If left with side mufflers, no problem.
8.- Eliminate side mufflers before or after they crack
Only if combined with after matket center muffler and / or very harsh tracks.
9.- Replace radiator clamps with quality stainless steel Tridon hose clamps
Clarkes front clamps where re-assembled at one point, so this is the exception.
10.- Semi-Solid engine and transmission mounts, and 2005 GT3 Cup shifting cables, to allow 2nd-to-3rd gear upshift under lateral loads
Dont agree. with DEM, I have no such issues. I hate CUP shifters and dont understand why people put op with the noise.
11.- Custom front brake cooling ducts
Not needed, the car always stops, even on brake killer tracks in 105F but yes, more cooling is better in combination with aggressive pads.
12.- Replace battery with anti-leak battery (Li-Ion, or sealed Optima)
Why? never heard of an OEM battery problem?
13.- Replace rear toe arms with toe-links for toe adjustment, before the eccentric bolts wear out or damage the subframe.
I think this could be only on the worst bumpy tracks, 90% of DE would neer lose allignment on the 12 track days a year..
14.- install brake caliper studs before the uprights threads get stripped.
With proper care it should be fine. If rushed and clumbsey like me, the $100 upgrade is a safer bet.
This is to go faster on fast sweeping tracks, on some tracks like auto cross it might even slow you down?
2.- Weld coolant pipes
Issue solved in .2 seems like. At least no failure in the first 2.5 years of production
3.- Re-tighten those loosening cam bolts with Permabond high temp threadlocker
Issue on some indeed.
4.- Replace clutch kit with 4.0RS version
Agreed, this should be a recall instead of warranty.
5.- Replace flywheel with 4.0RS version
You mean Pressure Plate. Flywheel is fine
6.- Replace hubs with 5-lugs version, or replace CL hubs every year before your wheels depart randomly and intentionally from car
Perhaps, but the longest hardest track driven cars have no issue. So far I have only seen it on non RS cars, often with aftermarket wheels, rear rotors and or mis use. I agree that it is too comples for most casual DE drivers, but if instructions are followed they dont time out in the first say 120 track DAYS.
7.- Replace center muffler with aftermarket muffler before or after it cracks
Only when unplugged. If left with side mufflers, no problem.
8.- Eliminate side mufflers before or after they crack
Only if combined with after matket center muffler and / or very harsh tracks.
9.- Replace radiator clamps with quality stainless steel Tridon hose clamps
Clarkes front clamps where re-assembled at one point, so this is the exception.
10.- Semi-Solid engine and transmission mounts, and 2005 GT3 Cup shifting cables, to allow 2nd-to-3rd gear upshift under lateral loads
Dont agree. with DEM, I have no such issues. I hate CUP shifters and dont understand why people put op with the noise.
11.- Custom front brake cooling ducts
Not needed, the car always stops, even on brake killer tracks in 105F but yes, more cooling is better in combination with aggressive pads.
12.- Replace battery with anti-leak battery (Li-Ion, or sealed Optima)
Why? never heard of an OEM battery problem?
13.- Replace rear toe arms with toe-links for toe adjustment, before the eccentric bolts wear out or damage the subframe.
I think this could be only on the worst bumpy tracks, 90% of DE would neer lose allignment on the 12 track days a year..
14.- install brake caliper studs before the uprights threads get stripped.
With proper care it should be fine. If rushed and clumbsey like me, the $100 upgrade is a safer bet.
10-01-2012, 10:37 AM
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
@Trakcar, not everyone waits for things to break to them fix them and rarely improve them.
I take preventive or enhancing actions on cars I use at a racetrack, because any measures to minimize problems that could arise during a track session and compromise my safety and the safety of others, work on my peace of mind.
Grady is looking for inputs on what other things could be fixed or enhanced, to avoid the tedious and annoying situation of missing a track day by a small failure.
For some people, going to a track event far away from home means significant expenses: tires, fees, car prep, meals, hotels, etc, thousands of dollars. They also mean a commitment in personal time, and away from family time in most cases. To have such effort blown by a missing $40 fix/enhancement is simply disgusting.
The GT3 has a strong engine and transmission, a well built car, but it is not perfect. Few changes can make it close to perfection.
A Corvette and a Viper have an vastly longer list of fixes/enhacements for track use, and none of them resolve their numb feeling. I'm carrying a list for the MP4-12C, and it already is as long as this 997.2 GT3 list. The 430 Scuderia fix list is much shorter, but the enhancement list a lot longer.
For me is about peace of mind, and trust on the equipment. These are no GoFast changes, those are another category typically exploded by many before taking care of the important things.
BTW, find a picture of Trakcar 2.0 battery tray, and you'll see the effect of leaking acids, the tray is non acid resistant, and right below that tray, there are some electronic sensors attached to the fuel tank. Acids, electricity and gasoline don't make good friends.
With #8 from the list, there is no need to insulate the fuel lines on the driver's side, the ones what run below the coolant expansion tanks and on top of the driver's side muffler.
I take preventive or enhancing actions on cars I use at a racetrack, because any measures to minimize problems that could arise during a track session and compromise my safety and the safety of others, work on my peace of mind.
Grady is looking for inputs on what other things could be fixed or enhanced, to avoid the tedious and annoying situation of missing a track day by a small failure.
For some people, going to a track event far away from home means significant expenses: tires, fees, car prep, meals, hotels, etc, thousands of dollars. They also mean a commitment in personal time, and away from family time in most cases. To have such effort blown by a missing $40 fix/enhancement is simply disgusting.
The GT3 has a strong engine and transmission, a well built car, but it is not perfect. Few changes can make it close to perfection.
A Corvette and a Viper have an vastly longer list of fixes/enhacements for track use, and none of them resolve their numb feeling. I'm carrying a list for the MP4-12C, and it already is as long as this 997.2 GT3 list. The 430 Scuderia fix list is much shorter, but the enhancement list a lot longer.
For me is about peace of mind, and trust on the equipment. These are no GoFast changes, those are another category typically exploded by many before taking care of the important things.
BTW, find a picture of Trakcar 2.0 battery tray, and you'll see the effect of leaking acids, the tray is non acid resistant, and right below that tray, there are some electronic sensors attached to the fuel tank. Acids, electricity and gasoline don't make good friends.
With #8 from the list, there is no need to insulate the fuel lines on the driver's side, the ones what run below the coolant expansion tanks and on top of the driver's side muffler.
10-01-2012, 11:26 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
Points well taken and agreed.
Just want to point out that the average DE guy who goes a dozen track days a year should be fine stock.
Most other cars still don't hold up.
Dont think the side mufflers are in the way of anything, but I like lesser weight non the less.
I'll ask Erik to look into the battery tray.
Just want to point out that the average DE guy who goes a dozen track days a year should be fine stock.
Most other cars still don't hold up.
Dont think the side mufflers are in the way of anything, but I like lesser weight non the less.
I'll ask Erik to look into the battery tray.
01-13-2013, 05:14 AM
#25
2nd Gear
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vario cam actuator bolts loosening
Re number 3. By tightening the vario cam bolts, which loosen due to engine vibrations at 3500 rpm, the next week link are the oil pump gears. This has recently been proven by a client at GMG racing. The original cast gears in pump are brittle and break. The fix, new race type oil pump or contact GMG re custom gears their working on.
Points well taken and agreed.
Just want to point out that the average DE guy who goes a dozen track days a year should be fine stock.
Most other cars still don't hold up.
Dont think the side mufflers are in the way of anything, but I like lesser weight non the less.
I'll ask Erik to look into the battery tray.
Just want to point out that the average DE guy who goes a dozen track days a year should be fine stock.
Most other cars still don't hold up.
Dont think the side mufflers are in the way of anything, but I like lesser weight non the less.
I'll ask Erik to look into the battery tray.
01-13-2013, 06:15 PM
#26
I have the 997.1RS and here is my experience of the failure with only 8k miles ( a lot of track use since 4k).
1. replaced to 40/60 LSD and I got an open diff at 4k.
2. waiting things to happen someday or fix this when I upgrade the final gear.
3. I hope this is not an issue with the 997.1RS?
4. So far so good
5. Do not think is a problem
6. NA
7. Changed anyway
8. Do not think it is an issue but will be my next mod
9. So far so good
10. I replaced to semi-solid engine mount and still have a tough time to shift from 2nd to 3nd when cornering. Will try transmission mount and Numeric racing shifter next yr.
11. So far so good with PCCB
12. I have no luck with factory battery since I have my 997S to RS. They only last 1-2 yrs each and is a total trash.
13. Replaced anyway
14. Plz show us what exactly it is about? Picture will be nice.
1. replaced to 40/60 LSD and I got an open diff at 4k.
2. waiting things to happen someday or fix this when I upgrade the final gear.
3. I hope this is not an issue with the 997.1RS?
4. So far so good
5. Do not think is a problem
6. NA
7. Changed anyway
8. Do not think it is an issue but will be my next mod
9. So far so good
10. I replaced to semi-solid engine mount and still have a tough time to shift from 2nd to 3nd when cornering. Will try transmission mount and Numeric racing shifter next yr.
11. So far so good with PCCB
12. I have no luck with factory battery since I have my 997S to RS. They only last 1-2 yrs each and is a total trash.
13. Replaced anyway
14. Plz show us what exactly it is about? Picture will be nice.
The following users liked this post:
Robocop305 (03-31-2021)
01-13-2013, 07:02 PM
#27
Wow, if any non RS owner read these threads they would run and hide from a RS/GT3 purchase. I've read these posts ad infinitum, scared me to death, and still bought an RS. I think it's safe to say that heavy track use on any car, regardless of brand, would require certain preventative maintenance, performance/safety additions and/or minor modifications. That comes with the territory, but I have to say that following TRAKCAR and Izone posts, to name a few, and having personal knowledge of at least 2 RS owners with 40+ track days that the RS seems to be a pretty reliable car all things considered. I dare say that there are precious few that drive their cars as hard as these guys. I'll be lucky to hit a dozen events a year. Folks like me aren't going to experience the same kind of wear dynamics that these guys do. So lets see, what other car, all things considered should I have purchased for a relatively safe, reliable, occasional track/DE car???, 997S, Vette, Jag, Noble, Ferrari, Subaru, Camaro, GTR, sorry if I missed anyone...ad infinitum, production car. There is risk with the very best prepared race cars. This kind of stuff can drive people crazy. Guess the best thing to do is stay at home and pull the blankets over my head. Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!
The following users liked this post:
Robocop305 (03-31-2021)
01-13-2013, 07:26 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
The answer to all your worries is Spec Miata, inexpensive, reliable, cheap consumables and best of all you won't worry about winning your DE. 
Peter
Peter
Wow, if any non RS owner read these threads they would run and hide from a RS/GT3 purchase. I've read these posts ad infinitum, scared me to death, and still bought an RS. I think it's safe to say that heavy track use on any car, regardless of brand, would require certain preventative maintenance, performance/safety additions and/or minor modifications. That comes with the territory, but I have to say that following TRAKCAR and Izone posts, to name a few, and having personal knowledge of at least 2 RS owners with 40+ track days that the RS seems to be a pretty reliable car all things considered. I dare say that there are precious few that drive their cars as hard as these guys. I'll be lucky to hit a dozen events a year. Folks like me aren't going to experience the same kind of wear dynamics that these guys do. So lets see, what other car, all things considered should I have purchased for a relatively safe, reliable, occasional track/DE car???, 997S, Vette, Jag, Noble, Ferrari, Subaru, Camaro, GTR, sorry if I missed anyone...ad infinitum, production car. There is risk with the very best prepared race cars. This kind of stuff can drive people crazy. Guess the best thing to do is stay at home and pull the blankets over my head. Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!
The following users liked this post:
Robocop305 (03-31-2021)
01-13-2013, 07:53 PM
#29
01-14-2013, 01:14 AM
#30
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
most important thing I leaned at grad school, hard o believe I graduated with my typo skills, is " there is no free lunch"
I want fun? for it.
RS blows up, yes
but other cars even worse
I want fun? for it.
RS blows up, yes
but other cars even worse