Laertes

For those of you who have monoballed-up your GT3/GT3RS suspensions, which pieces would you say give the best bang for the buck, which are nice to have but maybe the price/performance ratio drops, and which are not worth doing at all?

It seems to be the consensus that the dog bone rear links are a great upgrade, and the rear toe link is imperative to lock in the alignment, but I'm curious what people think about other options (LCA ends, Thrust arm bushings, tie rod ends, etc).

Maybe ranking in order of importance?

Also, which pieces do the most to help on the track but are the most obtrusive on the road (noisy, harsh, etc)?

997gt3north

my personal opinion is leave it or do it all

- pay the labor once
- pay for the alignment once

or leave the car as is

removing the rubber makes the car easier to drive at the limit
most of us can only drive at 'our' limit - not 'the' limit

i actually really don't see the point of removing half the rubber - seems kind of silly

and, you really don't want to do this to a daily driver - the exposed joints are not meant to survive daily driving


If the car is a 90% DE car with maybe some weekends - I would say do it all - otherwise no. I did it all at once with the RSS parts + re-valved the shocks - prior to that the suspension was stock. The car is substantially more calm at the limit - takes a set and is predictable. I would also suggest that engine mounts be done at the same time with wevo, rss, redline or other.

Mike K.

Do the toe links and then start with the bigger ones - Shock mounts and caster pucks. You'll notice the difference.

Doublej

I think it also depends what you plan to do with your alignment. Stock pieces will generally work well within a smaller range of adjustments whereas dogbones, thrust arms and pucks give you great versatility to do pretty much anything and get very precise. As well these adjustable pieces generally hold your alignment much better.

I've pretty much replaced everything except rear thrust arms and upper rear shock mounts. LCA bushings, tie rod ends, dog bones, rear toe links and sway bar drop links. On the street every crack in the asphalt is felt and heard. It's not that pleasant; however on the track it is incredibly responsive and precise. As well feedback is greatly improved.

JJ

Laertes

What are "pucks"? Thrust arm bushings kind of look like pucks-- is that it?

Mike K.

http://store.trgparts.com/lower-cast...px?Thread=True

savyboy

Having gone between nothing, all, some, most and somewhat... I feel more than qualified to add my 2c. And my money is and is not where my mouth is. My 4.0 suspension is 100% stock and will remain that way.

In order of bang for buck and consideration of ride quality while being perfectly trackable:

1. Rear LCA monoballs.
2. Rear toe control arm spherical end.
3. Rear lower shock mount solid mount.

#3 requires you to change out the carrier$. How committed are you?

Porsche got it right with the GT2RS and 4.0 suspensions which are identical aside from spring rate.

"Suspension wise we have the balljoints of the 2RS on the 4.0 for more precision and faster rear axle reaction. Still nothing on the upper wisbones, sorry. Tried it again on this car but it didn't work for us (no gains dynamically, only more noise and harshness and almost dangerously nervous at lane changes above 150 mph). "

"Compared with conventional rubberbonded metal mounts, ball-joint suspension mounts permit more precise wheel control and more sensitive damper response. This enables more direct steering behaviour and enhanced performance potential. On the 911 GT3 RS, several suspension mounts on the front and rear axles were already realised as ball joints. To further enhance performance, the new 911 GT3 RS 4.0 features additional ball joint-type mounts on the multi-link rear axle. These are located on the inside of the lower wishbone and on the inside of the tie rod. The highest forces occur at these locations during cornering and these forces can now be transmitted directly to the vehicle without elastic deformation. This significantly improves the feeling for the driver at the rear axle. A further ball joint is located between the wheel carrier and spring"

I would suggest an investment in driving school at PSDS if you have not already done so before an investment in colorful shiny bits. Voice of been there done that...

Laertes

Thanks Pete. Super helpful. I have your old Tarret monoball LCA ends in a box in my basement and was trying to decide whether to put them up front, back, or get another pair and do them all.

This stuff would (and probably will) go on an '11RS, but I'm going to take it out to the track a few times and see how I feel about it in stock (albeit track aligned) form first. I already have dogbones and rear toe links (also in a box and not on the car). So trying to figure out how far to take it and what to do next. The car will be 50/50 road/track, but I'm not THAT concerned about a little road harshness, though I'd prefer to avoid a ton of rattling.

What parts in a non-4.0 RS are already monoballs?

And since I'm going to be paying to install the parts I have anyway, what others would be worth doing at that time? And you don't mention the front suspension-- anything worth doing up there?

Thanks!

savyboy

I would put the monoballs on the rear LCA, add the toe-links and stop there. To me, molesting the front gains primarily harshness. Think about it, there is no weight up there except for braking. The rear does everything. '11RS is so good out of the box. Unless you are running Hoosiers, adding a bunch of camber creates other problems- dartiness and tail wag under braking.

aussie jimmy

pete - was this an 'ap-apb'?

TRAKCAR

+ I left the front alone and did lca and toe links rear only.

The car sets a bit quicker with that. I could not detect any more harshness. It should be OEM on an RS.
But Do LSD first. It makes the biggest difference.

Orbit r

First toe links... big must.
Lock plates like most think, are not necessary if alignment is done correctly.
Thurst arm bushings, upper control arms, inner lower control arms mono *****.

TRAKCAR

What do I have exactly?

Orbit r

Toe links
Thrust arm bushing (front and rear)
Inner lower control arms mono ***** (can't remember if front and rear, but most likely)
Porsche Motorsports LSD with custom ramps, not only the clutches.
Also a few other bits

drl

I did toe links on all corners and a more aggressive track alignment and it made a huge difference. Car handles like a kart by comparison and 2 sec off previous best time each track i go to (so far). Car also just way more fun to drive.

What is next step? I want to do more but I know i just need more seat time at this point.