LVDell

I'm not sure. I can take more detailed pics when I get back home. I'm currently out of town until the weekend.

facelvega

Ahhhhh...... Understandable then. I used these (required factory part) on a recent turboencabulator installation.....

acadian_dad

Thanks Dell - if you can measure the hex dimensions one will be a little smaller than the others if it is a jet nut.

Of note - from what I've read these self locking nuts lose effectiveness with reuse. So ... may want to stock up on them (or at least keep a close eye on them if not changing pads and retorquing regularly). There are sources online for Cd plated nuts rated for 450F for about $3/ea but if 800F rated Ag plated nuts are needed, they seem hard to find in metric sizes.

acadian_dad

The turboencabulators clearly need the Ag plated nuts due to the high force vortex flux delineation.

LVDell

They better not be a single use type of nut at the cost of these nuts If so, they removed all the benefit of moving to studs instead of bolts.

I'll get the specific dimensions when I get back home this weekend.

mojom3

having installed these on my GT3, I can tell you the nuts are not the elliptical self locking nuts. When you install the studs, use 2 of the nuts shoulder to shoulder tightened together to run the studs in after cleaning the crap from the threaded hole. Use a drop of blue loctite on the stud/nut when reinstalling the calipers. Easy
job to change pads(relatively) and no need to use new nuts every time.

LVDell

Great info David, thanks

zweebach

I have a few weeks until my next track event, so I figured now was a good time to do some brake mods, includding:
Porsche Motorsports Brake Caliper Studs
Orbit Racing Bracke Puck Retainers
AP Racing PCCB Steel Rotor Conversion

I made a few observations during installation that might be helpful to others following this same path.

I know Dell is planning on doing a write-up as well, but I figure the more information out there, the better.

Remove the 13mm bolt from the pad retainer pin.



Removing the front pad retainer pin is so much easier with the Traq Junk tool (no affiliation). If you don't have one, I highly recommend it. Otherwise, you'll have to have either three hands, or be dexterous with your knee.





Remove the pad retainer sensors, if you still use them.



Remove the brake line retainer screw (My camera wouldn't fit back there, so I need to get the photo off of my phone.

Remove the caliper bolts with a 10mm hex key.





Move the caliper out of the way.



Remove the rotor retaining screws. Mine were a bit rusty from living an early life close to the beach. They needed some PB Blaster and a tap with a mallet to break loose.



All the pucks stayed in place



Installing the caliper studs (Note: the short studs are for the front calipers)



Both studs in and brake puck retainers visible in the caliper.



Also Note - if you do not have a thin wall 15mm socket, you won't be able to tighten the nuts on the caliper studs. I had to go buy a new socket. (newer ones seem to be made as thin wall. See the comparison below. If your socket is barely larger than the flange on the nut, you should be okay.



Here are the two sockets without the nuts in them.




More to come as the upgrade proceeds.

LVDell

Saves me the need to do a DIY. Nicely done.

And totally agree on the Traqjunk spring retainer tool. Have been using one since they came out. It's a must own.

Quick question:
Why would you need a different socket?

911rox

Stud nuts recess into the calipers as per the photo above... If the socket is too wide, it won't fit into the recess Dell

LVDell

Ah, it's the recess on the caliper. Was a little confused on that one. I'll investigate my socket stock

zweebach

Cool. I didn't want to steal your thunder.

A better check for your socket would be this:
Look at where the socket head bolt used to go:




If your 15mm socket fits in that hole, you're good. My older socket had a thick wall and wouldn't fit. I briefly had a minor panic, thinking, "How am I going to torque the brake caliper nuts now?"



Fully installed:

LVDell

Thanks for the visual

mdrums

Great write up....Do you still torque the nuts on the caliper studs to the same torque as the old caliper bolts...63ftlbs?

I ask this because the old caliper bolts are a stretch bolt for 1 time use so I'm wondering it the caliper stubs have a higher torque setting due to not being a stretch bolt anymore.

LVDell

Mike, we already covered that on page 1.

Studs are 15-20 ft-lb
Nuts are 63 ft-lb