911rox

Acadian, I was talking to the motorsport mechanic some weeks back abt whether they can be removed. He said its hit and miss but more often then not they back out without striping threads. Considering yours haven't had any heat cycles applied, I'd say you are a great chance for getting them out without damage... Good luck....

Izzone

No idea why you wouldnt use studs, caliper bolts are not precise, it's aluminum threads

Giesha has time cert and stud in rear

For cars and cofe stock works

acadian_dad

Did he mention best place to apply heat and how much ? To stud or to upright ?

LVDell

Wheh! Thanks for giving me heart failure while on vacation!!! Glad to hear it was human error. We've all been there Kudos to you (and thank you) for coming back and admitting the mistake. The public flogging that the 3 community gives is in fun.

zweebach

I actually did the same thing during my install. That's why I was sure to mention that the longer studs are for the rear brakes.

Anyway, I was able to remove the studs even after the threadlocker had set by using a heat gun and double nutting the stud.

I set my heat gun as high as it would go (1000°F) and set it up to point at the threaded section of the upright (where the threadlocker is). Let it get nice and hot and then start working the stud out - it will not be fast or easy. You will break a sweat, also because it gets really warm with the heat gun going.

Having done this, you will need to clean up the threads in the upgright using a tap. If you plan to re-use the stud, you'll have to run it through a die to clean up the threads and get some red Loctite for when you install it in the proper location.

acadian_dad

zweebach - glad to hear I'm not the only one ... misery loves company ! Don't have a heat gun handy so was thinking of propane torch ... but heat gun definitely sounds more controllable.

Update - heat gun worked but took a long time and lots of effort - just as you described. The threadlocker turned mostly to dust leaving the upright threads looking very clean - I didn't want to risk a tap in the aluminum so instead I used a clean, smooth M12x1.5 bolt as a chaser. There was more gunk stuck in the threads of the stud so used a die with just finger pressure to clean that off.

The CORRECT front stud when dry fit without threadlocker is OK for length - though just barely.

LVDell

Pic added to original post with .1GT3 steel brake car stud measurements.

TRAKCAR

Can someone tell me the part numbers of the caliper stud bolts?

acadian_dad

Hey Dell - that "new" front stud matches what I had from Eduardo. Yours (the one in the photo) looks a little worse for wear ... is that aluminum stuck in the upright threads ?!?!?!

acadian_dad

You mean the nuts I think ? Per Dell's original photo they are

999.076.083.01

cheers !

TRAKCAR

And pictures would come in handy too!!

I wish someone would figure this out.

acadian_dad

Did you look at post # 1 ? Its full of nicely dimensioned photos that Dell took.

LVDell

That was one that I installed a tad too far A heat gun and some sweat and I finally got it out. I have a replacement on order. Stupidly, I didn't pay attention to the threads and went to far into the carrier

Post 1 foolio! Don't make us buy you a ticket to the ban-wagon

acadian_dad

Ugh! . This whole non-mod thing is not for the faint of heart is it?

Do you think you need an insert on the upright now?

LVDell

Nope, it fine. The shiny part is me screwing around with it after I removed it.