Torque Multiplier
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Torque Multiplier
Hi guys, just curious how many use a torque multiplier for their center locks? I was at my tech's shop yesterday and watched as they changed my pads for the track so I can do them next time. They used a torque multiplier for removing the centerlocks- it was very slick! Easy to come off and easy to put back on. Used it to torque the wheels as well.
They used this from Snap-on:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog
What do you guys think? Looks like a good solution.
They used this from Snap-on:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog
What do you guys think? Looks like a good solution.
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, now I'm not sure what they used when they torqued the wheel, I was on the other side of the car when it was done. I thought they used the torque multiplier and a torque wrench. But now, looking at available 1/2" drive torque wrenches I can't find any that are low enough to be used with the multiplier.
Looking for someone who's using this setup to set me straight!
Thanks
Looking for someone who's using this setup to set me straight!
Thanks
#3
I would not torque the wheels with a multiplier, they doesn't seem accurate enough.
My plan is to use the precision instruments torque wrench (splits into 3 pieces) for torquing, and to use a multiplier in combination with the top two parts of the wrench for loosening them.
This should make it very easy to both torque and loosen the wheels and it'll fit nicely into the trunk of the car. There's also no risk of damaging the calibration of the wrench when loosening the wheel since that part of the wrench isn't even used.
My plan is to use the precision instruments torque wrench (splits into 3 pieces) for torquing, and to use a multiplier in combination with the top two parts of the wrench for loosening them.
This should make it very easy to both torque and loosen the wheels and it'll fit nicely into the trunk of the car. There's also no risk of damaging the calibration of the wrench when loosening the wheel since that part of the wrench isn't even used.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Agree, it's not a good idea to loosen bolts with a torque wrench, you need a breaker bar.
However the multiplier is fairly accurate so it can be used in combination with a torque wrench using the multiplier. Just not seeing one that is in the right range.
However the multiplier is fairly accurate so it can be used in combination with a torque wrench using the multiplier. Just not seeing one that is in the right range.
#5
The multiplier you linked has a ratio of 3.4. 600/3.4 gives you 176Nm (or 130 lb ft). Seems like a very common range for a 1/2" wrench?
That multiplier only has an accuracy of -/+10% though, and then you need to add the accuracy of the wrench to that! (multiplied by 3.4). A typical wrench is -/+3%, this would give you a final accuracy of -/+20%.
That multiplier only has an accuracy of -/+10% though, and then you need to add the accuracy of the wrench to that! (multiplied by 3.4). A typical wrench is -/+3%, this would give you a final accuracy of -/+20%.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes, I see that there are wrenches in the correct range, just not from snap-on.
Regarding the accuracy, I'm no physicist, but I don't believe you multiply the torque wrench accuracy, in my mind it is simply additive: 10+3=13%
You can get a more expensive torque multiplier with an accuracy of 5%, but at double the cost.
Regarding the accuracy, I'm no physicist, but I don't believe you multiply the torque wrench accuracy, in my mind it is simply additive: 10+3=13%
You can get a more expensive torque multiplier with an accuracy of 5%, but at double the cost.
#7
Does anyone have a step by step way of removing the tires with center locks? I like the idea of the 3 piece units to be able to place it in the trunk, while on the track.
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#8
I was able to loosen the wheels with just the first 2 sections of the Precision Instrument torque wrench. Though I had to exert alot of force. Once I added the metal bar from the Harbor Freight floor jack as an extension, and realized how effortless it was to break loose the wheels.
I'm sure it's on the forum. But here's how I do it.
1. Put the car on floor jacks
2. Remove the dust cap carefully
3. Have someone step on the brake pedal
4. Use Precision Instrument torque wrench (without the last piece) to break loose the wheel (note that the wrench has CW and CCW sides when torquing)
5. Remove the centerlock nut
6. Screw in 3R Racing centerlock wheel guide (aka *****!)
7. Slide the wheel out (careful not to contact the PCCB, if you have it)
1. Put the car on floor jacks
2. Remove the dust cap carefully
3. Have someone step on the brake pedal
4. Use Precision Instrument torque wrench (without the last piece) to break loose the wheel (note that the wrench has CW and CCW sides when torquing)
5. Remove the centerlock nut
6. Screw in 3R Racing centerlock wheel guide (aka *****!)
7. Slide the wheel out (careful not to contact the PCCB, if you have it)
Last edited by edwin814; 03-26-2012 at 12:50 PM.
#9
I bought the 42" breaker from toottopia. Also the precision tools 3/4 torque wrench that everyone else has. Using them for 2 years now works like a charm.
Only thing different that I would have done from the start is what I do now-----slide a jack handle extension over the end of the breaker bar to get more leverage when breaking the wheels loose. Because without doing this it can be a bitch to break them with only the 42" breaker alone.
Only thing different that I would have done from the start is what I do now-----slide a jack handle extension over the end of the breaker bar to get more leverage when breaking the wheels loose. Because without doing this it can be a bitch to break them with only the 42" breaker alone.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I bought the 42" breaker from toottopia. Also the precision tools 3/4 torque wrench that everyone else has. Using them for 2 years now works like a charm.
Only thing different that I would have done from the start is what I do now-----slide a jack handle extension over the end of the breaker bar to get more leverage when breaking the wheels loose. Because without doing this it can be a bitch to break them with only the 42" breaker alone.
Only thing different that I would have done from the start is what I do now-----slide a jack handle extension over the end of the breaker bar to get more leverage when breaking the wheels loose. Because without doing this it can be a bitch to break them with only the 42" breaker alone.