DIY Coolant Fitting Fix with Motor In the Car
#91
Drifting
After you're done pinning, before restarting the motor, you can open the two coolant drain plugs on the bottom and all the coolant in the engine along with any debris will flush down and out. Drain it into a big clean 5 gallon bucket and after you can pour the coolant through a coffee filter into another bucket. If you pin it right and according to the directions I gave you, you should find none to almost negligible debris in the filter, but any, the above method will give you peace of mind. To do a full system drain/flush follow the directions below by disconnecting the hoses at the coolers.
About 2-3 gallons will remain in the system (heater system and such).
After that I prefer to refill with fresh Porsche coolant keeping the coolant to water ratio at 20% as per the GT3 Cup specifications below. Since the initial fill has formed the protective anti corrosion coating within all the internal walls of the cooling system components, the subsequent refill of a 20% concentration is all that is needed to maintain the corrosion protection. The mix of 80% distilled water also makes for a cooler running car as water absorbs and dissipates heat much more efficiently than coolant, anywhere from 10-20 degrees cooler over a 50/50 mix. I also add about 4 teaspoons of Jet Dry to the coolant to improve the surfactant properties of the mixture, which decreases water tension and improves wetting of the internal surfaces, just as Water Wetter claims. I am not a fan of Redline Water Wetter because I don't think it has the same anti-corrosion protection additives at the Porsche coolant, seems to have no lubrication for the water pump, and I've seen where it causes strange fallout of chemicals in the cooling systems.
About 2-3 gallons will remain in the system (heater system and such).
After that I prefer to refill with fresh Porsche coolant keeping the coolant to water ratio at 20% as per the GT3 Cup specifications below. Since the initial fill has formed the protective anti corrosion coating within all the internal walls of the cooling system components, the subsequent refill of a 20% concentration is all that is needed to maintain the corrosion protection. The mix of 80% distilled water also makes for a cooler running car as water absorbs and dissipates heat much more efficiently than coolant, anywhere from 10-20 degrees cooler over a 50/50 mix. I also add about 4 teaspoons of Jet Dry to the coolant to improve the surfactant properties of the mixture, which decreases water tension and improves wetting of the internal surfaces, just as Water Wetter claims. I am not a fan of Redline Water Wetter because I don't think it has the same anti-corrosion protection additives at the Porsche coolant, seems to have no lubrication for the water pump, and I've seen where it causes strange fallout of chemicals in the cooling systems.
#92
Pro
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Oegstgeest, the Netherlands
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I am really happy with the knurling / JB welding so far. Time will tell but from an engineering perspective it makes a lot of sense:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...l#post11825638
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...l#post11825638
#93
Drifting
I got the fittings pinned, thanks to the OP for the great write up.
Last edited by CosmosMpower; 01-22-2015 at 11:08 PM.
#95
There is maybe 1 fitting you could loop safety wire around the clamp and then around another component, the rest would need a PITA... and that's based on pictures of the engine out of the car.... In car would be another story...
When mine failed it was a catastrophic coolant dump and when I looking in the engine bay with a flashlight the fitting had not completely popped out of the hole, just backed out a bit and unseated. At 15PSI even just a slight gap allows quite a bit of fluid out rather quickly...
When mine failed it was a catastrophic coolant dump and when I looking in the engine bay with a flashlight the fitting had not completely popped out of the hole, just backed out a bit and unseated. At 15PSI even just a slight gap allows quite a bit of fluid out rather quickly...
#97
Rennlist Member
Is anyone concerned re: galvanic corrosion between the aluminum housing and stainless bolt in the presence of coolant?
Has anyone used aluminum socket head screws rather than stainless? Shear strength should still be more than adequate, no?
Has anyone used aluminum socket head screws rather than stainless? Shear strength should still be more than adequate, no?
#98
Galvanic corrosion won't happen since the there won't be "electron transfer" from the metals. There's no potential. But, there could be other issues.
#99
Rennlist Member
yesterday finished pining ( 6 )the left side of the engine, alternator also installed back. now this week will do the right side. also did clean engine bay.
who ever wants to do this task, do it slowly, make sure you feel comfortable working on engines.
BIG THANKS to Steve W for posting this DIY.
who ever wants to do this task, do it slowly, make sure you feel comfortable working on engines.
BIG THANKS to Steve W for posting this DIY.
#100
Rennlist Member
btw Steve W if you come to PR I will invite you for a cool Medalla...
#104
Rennlist Member
finally GT3 engine pinning is done, last Monday did the right side of the engine and assemble everything back the same night. Did start the car 24 hrs later and no leaks.
Steve W, thanks again.
Steve W, thanks again.
#105