2010 GT3 -new to me anyway
#1
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Hi
I had a 2002 996 turbo that I loved - except I felt that it was a little heavy and just not quite right for track duty. Then this 2010 GT3 comes along - I've only driven it a few days but love it. Can't wait to get it on the track.
Which brings me to my point, what track mods would be good to do that won't kill the factory/cpo warranty? It'll be seeing about 80/20 track/street duty. Thanks.
I had a 2002 996 turbo that I loved - except I felt that it was a little heavy and just not quite right for track duty. Then this 2010 GT3 comes along - I've only driven it a few days but love it. Can't wait to get it on the track.
Which brings me to my point, what track mods would be good to do that won't kill the factory/cpo warranty? It'll be seeing about 80/20 track/street duty. Thanks.
#2
Rennlist Member
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CS bar
Schroth seat belts
Bolster and head rest protecors
Studs in calipers
LSD
CUP lip and Gurney Flap
Rear tie rods
set of track wheels, or 2 perhaps.
Tow hook
Torque wrench, can opener and Castrol grease
Data recorder/video
PFC front rotors, PFC08 pads.
That should get you started
Schroth seat belts
Bolster and head rest protecors
Studs in calipers
LSD
CUP lip and Gurney Flap
Rear tie rods
set of track wheels, or 2 perhaps.
Tow hook
Torque wrench, can opener and Castrol grease
Data recorder/video
PFC front rotors, PFC08 pads.
That should get you started
#5
Rennlist Member
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Club Sport bar that is oem in ROW (Rest Of World) cars.
CUP cars dont have bolts going into the uprights to keep the calipers on but studs and nuts instead.
Saves you from stripping out and expensive aluminum upright, as each rear brake pad change requires the rear caliper needs to come off. While you are at it change the fronts just to be safe.
CUP cars dont have bolts going into the uprights to keep the calipers on but studs and nuts instead.
Saves you from stripping out and expensive aluminum upright, as each rear brake pad change requires the rear caliper needs to come off. While you are at it change the fronts just to be safe.
#6
Race Director
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Peter, where do you get the studs and bolts for the calipers? Sound like a nice precaution even for a car like mine?
#7
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Club Sport bar that is oem in ROW (Rest Of World) cars.
CUP cars dont have bolts going into the uprights to keep the calipers on but studs and nuts instead.
Saves you from stripping out and expensive aluminum upright, as each rear brake pad change requires the rear caliper needs to come off. While you are at it change the fronts just to be safe.
CUP cars dont have bolts going into the uprights to keep the calipers on but studs and nuts instead.
Saves you from stripping out and expensive aluminum upright, as each rear brake pad change requires the rear caliper needs to come off. While you are at it change the fronts just to be safe.
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#8
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![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Club Sport bar that is oem in ROW (Rest Of World) cars.
CUP cars dont have bolts going into the uprights to keep the calipers on but studs and nuts instead.
Saves you from stripping out and expensive aluminum upright, as each rear brake pad change requires the rear caliper needs to come off. While you are at it change the fronts just to be safe.
CUP cars dont have bolts going into the uprights to keep the calipers on but studs and nuts instead.
Saves you from stripping out and expensive aluminum upright, as each rear brake pad change requires the rear caliper needs to come off. While you are at it change the fronts just to be safe.
wow; wish i'd thought of that before i stripped out THREE of them.
#9
Rennlist Member
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Yes, you can fix that with Timeserts as well, but I preferred to put the studs in when the car was new before I mess up the thread.
In my last car, the rear caliper came loose and I had to buy a new upright. No fun.
In my last car, the rear caliper came loose and I had to buy a new upright. No fun.
#11
Race Director
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1-drive to Orbit
2- take iPad to work remote while I wait for car
3- have Orbit install caliper bolts
4- have Orbit install better sway bars
5- drive home happy
#12
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1-drive to Orbit on Wednesday AM, make sure Rodger invites you to go test the car 6-10PM same day.
2-drink lot's of beer with Peter and drive home early next morning.
You forgot LSD, CUP lip, Piston clips to keep puck from falling out..
2-drink lot's of beer with Peter and drive home early next morning.
You forgot LSD, CUP lip, Piston clips to keep puck from falling out..
#14
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Hi
I had a 2002 996 turbo that I loved - except I felt that it was a little heavy and just not quite right for track duty. Then this 2010 GT3 comes along - I've only driven it a few days but love it. Can't wait to get it on the track.
Which brings me to my point, what track mods would be good to do that won't kill the factory/cpo warranty? It'll be seeing about 80/20 track/street duty. Thanks.
I had a 2002 996 turbo that I loved - except I felt that it was a little heavy and just not quite right for track duty. Then this 2010 GT3 comes along - I've only driven it a few days but love it. Can't wait to get it on the track.
Which brings me to my point, what track mods would be good to do that won't kill the factory/cpo warranty? It'll be seeing about 80/20 track/street duty. Thanks.
tequipment or GMG roll bar to hold the harnesses.
Pagid pads and SRF brake fluid to keep the brakes working on the track.
Rear toe links to hold a proper corner balance and alignment.
Sharkwerks center muffler delete to save weight
good tires for stick factor
and a Guard Limited slip differential to keep both tires spinning.
Done
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#15
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if one changes the brake pads alot then studs in the calipers is a great modification.
The CUP car has the same feature.
The stock set up strips out with time.
The CUP car has the same feature.
The stock set up strips out with time.