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Gt3 owners with gt2 rear sway bar

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Old 12-07-2011, 04:47 PM
  #46  
Polarcharger
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
they are not as effective on the .1 as they are on the .2 because the .2 has "cutout" dust shields behind the rear brakes that allows the air to flow unobstructed onto the rotors (unlike the .1 dust shields that partially obscure).

None the less they do help, or you can CAREFULLY cut the dust shields ... replacing them is a pain as you have to remove the calipers+rotors
.1 dust shields can be cut and then ground smooth while still on car. Be sure to shield the rotors (copy of "Excellence" is the approved method) when doing so (not a happy day if Dremel makes contact with PCCB).
Old 12-07-2011, 07:04 PM
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997gt3north
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Please search for an old post where I tested and installed the rear ducts on my .1

It took a total of 30 minutes and this included cutting out with metal sheers a section that allow the air to properly hit the rotors - yes it was a home brew solution but it is easy to do - and I'm nearly mechanically incompetent - just cut them.

And when I'm say incompetent - I mean totally fvcking useless - if I can do it anyone can.


Paul
Old 12-07-2011, 09:11 PM
  #48  
Larry Cable
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Originally Posted by Polarcharger
.1 dust shields can be cut and then ground smooth while still on car. Be sure to shield the rotors (copy of "Excellence" is the approved method) when doing so (not a happy day if Dremel makes contact with PCCB).
+1 ... esp with the advice about avoiding dremmel/PCCB contact!!!

Old 12-07-2011, 09:13 PM
  #49  
Larry Cable
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Originally Posted by 997gt3north
Please search for an old post where I tested and installed the rear ducts on my .1

It took a total of 30 minutes and this included cutting out with metal sheers a section that allow the air to properly hit the rotors - yes it was a home brew solution but it is easy to do - and I'm nearly mechanically incompetent - just cut them.

And when I'm say incompetent - I mean totally fvcking useless - if I can do it anyone can.


Paul
dont know if you did this Paul , but its worth installing the ducts then outlining them with a sharpie onto the dust shields that gives you an "accurate" line to cut along ... they are so easy to put on/take off its worth
doing this step to get it "right"

p.s
I think there is a geneva convention that specifically excludes me from undertaking any sort of diy mechanic work ...
Old 12-07-2011, 09:18 PM
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For those that moved to the GT2 bar, the OEM 997.1 one was inadequate even on the stiffest setting?

Just curious as I have my original 996 rear bar on 2nd hole from stiffest and am happy with the balance.
Old 12-07-2011, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Serge944
For those that moved to the GT2 bar, the OEM 997.1 one was inadequate even on the stiffest setting?

Just curious as I have my original 996 rear bar on 2nd hole from stiffest and am happy with the balance.
yep! different for 996.2 and 997.1 ...
Old 12-07-2011, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Serge944
For those that moved to the GT2 bar, the OEM 997.1 one was inadequate even on the stiffest setting?

Just curious as I have my original 996 rear bar on 2nd hole from stiffest and am happy with the balance.
Junior, leave the suspension for now and focus and the diet! ok?
Old 12-07-2011, 09:39 PM
  #53  
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the cheapest mod I could make is to lose 50lbs ... but where is the fun in that!!!
Old 12-07-2011, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
dont know if you did this Paul , but its worth installing the ducts then outlining them with a sharpie onto the dust shields that gives you an "accurate" line to cut along ... they are so easy to put on/take off its worth
doing this step to get it "right"

p.s
I think there is a geneva convention that specifically excludes me from undertaking any sort of diy mechanic work ...
Since you mentioned dust shields I see that a lot of GT3's either have very small inner shiled around the rotors or have no shileds at all. Especially race cars. So why not just totally remove these inner shield that cover the inside of the rotor?

The shield on the front rotors of my GTS...like my last Carrera S cars is HUGE and covers the total inside of the rotor. I will need new rotors after this weekends DE and was thinking to just remove them totally. No?
Old 12-07-2011, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mdrums
Since you mentioned dust shields I see that a lot of GT3's either have very small inner shiled around the rotors or have no shileds at all. Especially race cars. So why not just totally remove these inner shield that cover the inside of the rotor?

The shield on the front rotors of my GTS...like my last Carrera S cars is HUGE and covers the total inside of the rotor. I will need new rotors after this weekends DE and was thinking to just remove them totally. No?
Heat shields.....keep from the rotors melting the stuff behind them

Dont remove

Just buy more efficient vaned rotors, the oem don't cool themselves much
Old 12-07-2011, 11:12 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
dont know if you did this Paul , but its worth installing the ducts then outlining them with a sharpie onto the dust shields that gives you an "accurate" line to cut along ... they are so easy to put on/take off its worth
doing this step to get it "right"

p.s
I think there is a geneva convention that specifically excludes me from undertaking any sort of diy mechanic work ...
I held the duct in place with my hand as I lay under the car supported by the jack, found a rock on my driveway and scratched / scored the outline of the duct on the metal heat shield. I let go of the duct, grabbed my metal cutters / very strong curved scissors and then cut off a crescent moon scaped piece of metal, as best I could, from the heat shield. I took it off in a few sections so I could follow the outline as best I could. I think I then cut myself on a metal shard but the duct is now sealed tighter with the blood that was dripping from my finger.

I felt very manly after doing this, and it happens to coincide with me using a set of 325 new Hoosiers on my narrow body .1 rear, so I pulled out my 30 year old broken baseball bat and worked the rear fender out a little for some added clearance. This is in wide open view of the neighbors , 1/2 of who think Im crazy, the other half + the local kids who just think it is cool that their friend's dad goes to the racetrack.
Old 12-08-2011, 12:24 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Izzone
Heat shields.....keep from the rotors melting the stuff behind them

Dont remove

Just buy more efficient vaned rotors, the oem don't cool themselves much
Thanks...I see that there is a rubber boot to a suspension arms really close to the back of the front rotor. Maybe I can mod my dust shields some and cut away part of it that has no rubber parts near it.....thoughts?????

As far as better rotors...yeah I'd just be happy with stock GT3 brakes....I'd love to do a bigger brake system on my GTS...but I'd need a system that offers the most bang for the buck and not just the most expensive.

I'll see how next year goes with track budget.
Old 12-08-2011, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 997gt3north
I held the duct in place with my hand as I lay under the car supported by the jack, found a rock on my driveway and scratched / scored the outline of the duct on the metal heat shield. I let go of the duct, grabbed my metal cutters / very strong curved scissors and then cut off a crescent moon scaped piece of metal, as best I could, from the heat shield. I took it off in a few sections so I could follow the outline as best I could. I think I then cut myself on a metal shard but the duct is now sealed tighter with the blood that was dripping from my finger.

I felt very manly after doing this, and it happens to coincide with me using a set of 325 new Hoosiers on my narrow body .1 rear, so I pulled out my 30 year old broken baseball bat and worked the rear fender out a little for some added clearance. This is in wide open view of the neighbors , 1/2 of who think Im crazy, the other half + the local kids who just think it is cool that their friend's dad goes to the racetrack.
Old 12-08-2011, 08:32 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Serge944
For those that moved to the GT2 bar, the OEM 997.1 one was inadequate even on the stiffest setting?

Just curious as I have my original 996 rear bar on 2nd hole from stiffest and am happy with the balance.
6GT3 got it right the 1st time with sways . I run 1 off full stiff front and rear.

Peter
Old 12-09-2011, 03:32 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by 997gt3north
I held the duct in place with my hand as I lay under the car supported by the jack, found a rock on my driveway and scratched / scored the outline of the duct on the metal heat shield. I let go of the duct, grabbed my metal cutters / very strong curved scissors and then cut off a crescent moon scaped piece of metal, as best I could, from the heat shield. I took it off in a few sections so I could follow the outline as best I could. I think I then cut myself on a metal shard but the duct is now sealed tighter with the blood that was dripping from my finger.

I felt very manly after doing this, and it happens to coincide with me using a set of 325 new Hoosiers on my narrow body .1 rear, so I pulled out my 30 year old broken baseball bat and worked the rear fender out a little for some added clearance. This is in wide open view of the neighbors , 1/2 of who think Im crazy, the other half + the local kids who just think it is cool that their friend's dad goes to the racetrack.




GT3 ownership does funny things to people.

I get the same strange looks from people in my parking garage who watch me stab the holes in my brake rotors to clear out brake dust with a straightened coat-hanger

Now, carving pieces out of the car, that I haven't done yet...


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