911rox

Yep, the reason those dust caps are so difficult to get off is because they are dust and water tight (rubber o-ringed) unlike previous ones that had holes in them to allow you to use tools to remove them... They should be left on to protect that spring loaded secondary lock from dust, dirt and water which could affect its ability to spring freely... This may be the problem with your rears. Not 100% sure but IIRC they have a circlip that allows you to open them up... It may be an idea to check one to make sure it doesn't have dirt and dust in it affecting the mechanism from springing properly... Definitely leave the caps on IMO...

I have two sets, a good set for street and a second set that is scratched, creased etc for track... Obviously I take a little less care when in a hurry and use that same set for track trashing....

drl

I have been tracking without mine but recognize it is probably brter to use them. Most guys I see at the track run with them off. It seems someone posted here about losing one on the track.

Thx for the advic about regreasing. That is about what I have been doing - taking apart the bolt/ring every several wheel removals, otherwise just doing conical surface, thread etc

GT3DE

Sly & I are driving the rig/cars down next week for PBOC Winterfest.

savyboy

Fighting to not post an ugly reply. How _____ do you have to be to leave a precision mechanism open to the grit dirt and moisture? Seriously? (not a personal attack Mike, but general comment to anyone who would not replace those caps). I frequently see cars at the track missing the caps as well.

Fine Australian common sense on full display. Thank you Chris...

Come on guys, why beg for trouble?

And the hot tip to easily remove those dust caps is...apply a tiny bit of grease or silicone spray to the o-rings. Then they are easily removed, yet stay on with no worries.

kyrocks

Agree.

Izzone

For what it is worth I have 5,000 track miles without the dust caps, they are a PITA

I just bang the bolt apart and clean after......YMMV

johnr265

1) I have noticed this spines getting stuck as well and know several others who have had the same. Note, I always run with the dust caps on so that is not the cause.

2) Attached is the supplement sent by Porsche after the center lock recall. It says in step 10 below to grease the conical portion B on the hub (I know the inside threads should be greased but this seems to say the outside). Am I misreading this? It doesn't make any sense to grease the outside.

mooty

^ a TSB posted by savyboy shows that both the conical surface and the thread inside need to be grease (see post #214 of this thread).

drl

I don't get it either. Step 10 definitely seems to suggest greasing the outer portion of the hub - ???

Do you have a pdf or link to that section of the tsb?

mooty

post 214

ATL Fahrer

16 pages of **** discussing centerlocks. TSB's, personal experience, breaker bars, car on a lift, $400 torque wrenches, discussion on dust caps... The list goes on and on

Can anyone imagine 16 pages of discussion on 5 freaking lug nuts?

DJN

......I told them so!

TRAKCAR

I use the caps only on the street, they pop off when you go to the track.
It seems to be no problem if you (have Orbit) look after the mechanism and regrease everything when changing the wheels to go to the track.

drl

seen it, still confused.

post 214 contains 2 pages from the tsb addressing how and where to grease the central bolt and cone ring thingy. this is what i have been following so far in my CL experience.

the "supplement" posted above gives some additional info, including what looks like greasing the outer portion of the hub that comes into contact with....nothing. i will continue NOT greasing this area unless someone here tells me otherwise.

johnr265

Those pages were sent by Porsche directly to owners at the time of the recall as a supplement to the owners manual. Generally I have been following the TSB which did not show lubing that surface too. Perhaps it's a typo?