Explosive free with OMP quick release steering wheel
#33
Race Director
Great write up! My car is still street driven so no gutting for me.
However being a tall uy I wish the stock wheel was closer to me so I could clear my knees. I wish I could figure out a way to bring the stock wheel closer.
However being a tall uy I wish the stock wheel was closer to me so I could clear my knees. I wish I could figure out a way to bring the stock wheel closer.
#34
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks ... I can't think of a way to bring factory steering wheel closer. It's not a good idea to have it too close with explosive in the center of the wheel
#35
hi guys
just bought 997 cup omp steering wheel and cup quick release.
i would want to use horn and eventually with the second red button highbeams.
nobody did it with succes? couuld you try to explain me how to do that ?
thx
just bought 997 cup omp steering wheel and cup quick release.
i would want to use horn and eventually with the second red button highbeams.
nobody did it with succes? couuld you try to explain me how to do that ?
thx
#36
Thanks for the great instructions. I just finished installing the 2011 cup car wheel on my 2007 GT3.1
A couple of things I ran into on my car: There are 3 T10 fasteners and one cap head screw holding the lower steering column shroud. Also on this car, the steering column telescopes in and out as well as moving up and down. When loosening the shroud to get access to the electrical sensor unit, it helps to pull the column all the way out and lower the vertical position all the way down. Also, to get the yellow connector unfastened on the electrical sensor unit, use a small awl to press into the slot on top. Lastly, when removing the electrical sensor unit to cut off the dummy plastic piece, be careful with the two connectors on the side at 10 and 2...they are pretty delicate and could be easily damaged.
Parts used:
Wheel 997.347.804.90
Hub: 997.347.903.91
I did not use the removeable hub (yet). Airbag warning light is on. I don't really care. No horn yet. I don't really use a horn very much. Revving the engine usually gets people's attention.
Thanks for the excellent instructions. Made the project very easy to do (even for a girl)
A couple of things I ran into on my car: There are 3 T10 fasteners and one cap head screw holding the lower steering column shroud. Also on this car, the steering column telescopes in and out as well as moving up and down. When loosening the shroud to get access to the electrical sensor unit, it helps to pull the column all the way out and lower the vertical position all the way down. Also, to get the yellow connector unfastened on the electrical sensor unit, use a small awl to press into the slot on top. Lastly, when removing the electrical sensor unit to cut off the dummy plastic piece, be careful with the two connectors on the side at 10 and 2...they are pretty delicate and could be easily damaged.
Parts used:
Wheel 997.347.804.90
Hub: 997.347.903.91
I did not use the removeable hub (yet). Airbag warning light is on. I don't really care. No horn yet. I don't really use a horn very much. Revving the engine usually gets people's attention.
Thanks for the excellent instructions. Made the project very easy to do (even for a girl)
Last edited by lp997; 01-30-2011 at 03:39 AM.
#37
Former Vendor
Really like the clean look of the 996 Cup wheel:
http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalo...sche_momo.html
http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalo...sche_momo.html
#38
My President's Day mod was a Momo hub/Monte Carlo SW. I did a couple things differently and have a question.
I didn't remove any of the column housing to install the hub. What worked for me was to make two vertical cuts with a utility knife in the dummy connector housing, on either side. From there, the pieces were thin and brittle enough to break off with needle nose pliers. On mine, the splines were deeper than the splines on the steering column. So, the hub bottoms with ~5mm of splines showing. Sorry, no pic. Torqued up fine, blue lock tite on the small allens, airbag light a'blaze.
That's my question. If anyone knows the layout of the pins within the images that begin this thread, it would be easier to cob together a 2.8K-ohm jumper. Which ones power the horn would also be good to know. I suppose I could back track from the 6 wires going to the old SW, but I'm not sure what they do. TIA.
I didn't remove any of the column housing to install the hub. What worked for me was to make two vertical cuts with a utility knife in the dummy connector housing, on either side. From there, the pieces were thin and brittle enough to break off with needle nose pliers. On mine, the splines were deeper than the splines on the steering column. So, the hub bottoms with ~5mm of splines showing. Sorry, no pic. Torqued up fine, blue lock tite on the small allens, airbag light a'blaze.
That's my question. If anyone knows the layout of the pins within the images that begin this thread, it would be easier to cob together a 2.8K-ohm jumper. Which ones power the horn would also be good to know. I suppose I could back track from the 6 wires going to the old SW, but I'm not sure what they do. TIA.
#39
Thank you to those that originated and updated this thread with additional info; much appreciated. I was hoping to able to use the factory steering wheel, but at 6'5" I was forced to mount my Kirkey seats so far back to get enough knee clearance to heel/toe that I had no choice but to install a similar setup to bring provide knee clearance and bring the wheel closer, which will allow be to also move the seat forward to better reach the shifter.
One thing that was slightly different on my car (2010 GT3): the lower shroud was held in place by two T10 torx screws, one 4mm hex and one 2mm hex.
I also changed one part of the process: rather than remove the sensor ring and risk damaging it with clumsy fingers/tools when getting it out, I left it in place. I used painter's tape to cover all open holes/slots to prevent any plastic dust from getting in there, then just dremeled off the dummy plug in place. Hopefully there wasn't something I missed in needing to remove it, because it worked great!
One thing that was slightly different on my car (2010 GT3): the lower shroud was held in place by two T10 torx screws, one 4mm hex and one 2mm hex.
I also changed one part of the process: rather than remove the sensor ring and risk damaging it with clumsy fingers/tools when getting it out, I left it in place. I used painter's tape to cover all open holes/slots to prevent any plastic dust from getting in there, then just dremeled off the dummy plug in place. Hopefully there wasn't something I missed in needing to remove it, because it worked great!