New Centerlock Specs/Torque For Track Use. **Read This**
#76
yep, no need to carry both breaker and torque wrench while on the road. the tooltopia torque wrench is more than enough. i like the collapsible breaker from porsche, but already have the torque wrench and cheapy breaker bar for home.
#77
Just checked the calendar, thought it must be April 1st.
It isnt.
This is getting out of hand. I was getting used to the CL and its not that bad but this new stuff really is over the top, especially compared to the "old" ways.
It isnt.
This is getting out of hand. I was getting used to the CL and its not that bad but this new stuff really is over the top, especially compared to the "old" ways.
#78
Clarification to all (due to my poor memory): the wheel pins were damaged when the wheels were secured and then torqued without jacking the car up. That process loaded up the spindle and ended up breaking the drive pins.
The way we do it in the cups (which would likely work for the street vehicles) is to snug down the wheels in the air, and then do final torque on the ground. If one tried to torque the wheels in the air, there is the possibility of bending or tweaking suspension arms.
The way we do it in the cups (which would likely work for the street vehicles) is to snug down the wheels in the air, and then do final torque on the ground. If one tried to torque the wheels in the air, there is the possibility of bending or tweaking suspension arms.
There is the illustration with the X with wheel on ground in the bulletin. Must be a reason they specified this. Would it be great if a Porsche rep gave a better explanation for our understanding? Yes, yes it would. Many of us are working on our own cars and deserve to fully understand the issue at hand (for our safety).
Step up Porsche...
That is how I was doing mine as well, pretorque as much as possible, finish with wheel on ground and chocked. But that seemingly interferes with a proper procedure. Now I will have to have a second person apply brake while I torque and have wheel in the air.
Last edited by savyboy; 09-18-2010 at 10:54 AM.
#79
That is how I was doing mine as well, pretorque as much as possible, finish with wheel on ground and chocked. But that seemily interferes with a proper procedure.
With the ftonts, the best I can do with my gnome on strike is just to "hit" the fronts to get as much torque on them as possible before dropping the car. It is nowhere near 500nm, let alone 600nm but it feels like the wheel is fully snug on the hub.
If fully snug, could it still affect the nm reading once the car is dropped?
#80
Same here, easy with the hand brake on the rears.
With the ftonts, the best I can do with my gnome on strike is just to "hit" the fronts to get as much torque on them as possible before dropping the car. It is nowhere near 500nm, let alone 600nm but it feels like the wheel is fully snug on the hub.
If fully snug, could it still affect the nm reading once the car is dropped?
With the ftonts, the best I can do with my gnome on strike is just to "hit" the fronts to get as much torque on them as possible before dropping the car. It is nowhere near 500nm, let alone 600nm but it feels like the wheel is fully snug on the hub.
If fully snug, could it still affect the nm reading once the car is dropped?
On the basis that a typical GT3 weighs 1400kg (60:40 weight distribution) each of the rear wheels is exerting a theoretical vertical force of 4100 Nm and based on 2 degrees of camber, an outward force of approx 150Nm on the hubs... Both of these forces are trying to unseat the wheel from the hub... If the wheels aren't sufficiently tight when the car is dropped and these forces are applied, the locking force may not be achieved as the wheel and hub surfaces could possibly be forced apart...
Figures for the fronts based on 2 degrees camber, 2750Nm vertical and 100Nm outward... Increase camber, increase outward force....
#81
The first two pages are from the RSR manual
The two other pictures are from the 2010 hub and C/L.
You can notice the differences and similarities in design of the C/Ls but interestingly the angular contact bearing is same part number for both the RSR and the street car.
The greasing procedure exists on the RSR manual but there is no guideline for proper place to torque apart from the 550+nm.
Also check how simple your life will be with CarreraGTs excellent suggestion for break tool if you don’t have someone there to help, and a good set of air jacks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXzZc...eature=related
John
The two other pictures are from the 2010 hub and C/L.
You can notice the differences and similarities in design of the C/Ls but interestingly the angular contact bearing is same part number for both the RSR and the street car.
The greasing procedure exists on the RSR manual but there is no guideline for proper place to torque apart from the 550+nm.
Also check how simple your life will be with CarreraGTs excellent suggestion for break tool if you don’t have someone there to help, and a good set of air jacks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXzZc...eature=related
John
#82
Although this is not the best thing to read it is extremely important. My experience last weekend confirms the added torque. I noticed a slight noise like a wheel bearing. The Forgelines were loosening with 500nm based on my torque wrench. There was the beginnings of evidence of galling between the wheel and hub. So I added 10% thinking my torque wrench calibration was off and the problem did not reoccur. Glad to see I have not exceeded any specifications.
Another tidbit to pass along. I have stopped replacing the center caps on the track. There was moisture behind mine from washing with them off. The heat caused one to pop off in the garage. Steam was coming from inside the cap. I know it's going to require more cleaning and maintenance.
Great post! All I can add is check, verify and double check. Safety first!
Another tidbit to pass along. I have stopped replacing the center caps on the track. There was moisture behind mine from washing with them off. The heat caused one to pop off in the garage. Steam was coming from inside the cap. I know it's going to require more cleaning and maintenance.
Great post! All I can add is check, verify and double check. Safety first!
#83
I have noticed several times when the car comes back from service at the dealer that the locking pin is not fully engaged in the central bolt. I use the end of my 1/2" breaker bar as a "square" tool to work the pin loose and allow it to fully engage.
_________________
2010 Black GT3
2008 Silverstone M5
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2010 Black GT3
2008 Silverstone M5
#84
It seems important to avoid getting high pressure water "aimed" at the dust cap. Any fluid behind the cap will evaporate at brake operating temperatures. When the assembly cools, this "wet" gas will be drawn into the axle (assuming it's still a hollow design) and from their into the transaxle. Not great.
#86
So do you have to re-Grease every time you take a wheel off? I don't know what the Porsche lube looks like yet but if it's like permatex anti-seize it's going to be a major PITA when it gets all over those red wheels!
#87
I think it all boils down to: use the higher torque spec; expect Porsche to renege on warranty if a GT3 or RS has problems with centerlocks/bearings/wheel carriers/ etc. Situation normal.
#88
My dealer tech did the inspect, grease and retorque for me. I made fun of him mercilessly as he first removed the centerlocks (hey man! going to tell the wife "not tonight honey, I had to torque Pete's centerlocks- worn out and a busted gut!"?) then when he grabbed a tiny bristle brush and began to apply the grease as precisly as possible. I suggested he don a beret hat, and perhaps apply the grease first to a small painters palette so as to mimic a great (mechanical) artist.
He was not amused...
Seriously he is going to look into what we need to order to convert this dang thing back to a five lug.
#90
Still plays with cars.
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From: Montreal
Not sure if this was posted but the screws that hold the rotor in place need to be tightened each time a wheel is removed.
They tend to back out and you end up torquing the wheel against the screw heads! These centerlock wheels suck IMHO.
They tend to back out and you end up torquing the wheel against the screw heads! These centerlock wheels suck IMHO.