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New Centerlock Specs/Torque For Track Use. **Read This**

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Old 09-28-2010, 05:40 PM
  #121  
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Exclamation Centerlock to 5-bolt OEM conversion for 997.2 GT3/RS

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Old 10-28-2010, 08:30 PM
  #122  
Blaine S
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Optimol Paste TA (P/N 000 043 020 00) is at Sunset Imports for $20, go get it you cheap bastards :-)
Old 10-28-2010, 11:24 PM
  #123  
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Just another data point here but I greased the nuts per the TSB, took it to the track, and checked torque each day to higher spec. Certainly no looser. Then when I needed to take off the wheels, I found the effort to be considerably higher than I had ever previously experienced it. In fact, I was beginning to wonder if I COULD do it (I weigh 180 lbs, had my FULL weight on the bar and it only barely budged with great difficulty but in the end, I was able to do it. I am going to try at least re-greasing the conical surface each time the nut comes off to see how that goes.
Old 10-28-2010, 11:39 PM
  #124  
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I would recommend pulling up on the breaker bar. It's hard to put the required force needed to break the wheels when pushing down.

But pulling up is MUCH easier. As you push upwards with your legs. I also weigh 180 lbs and had a bit of difficulty when pushing down.....easier pulling up and using legs.

Thinkl deadlift.....vs bench press
Old 10-29-2010, 04:45 PM
  #125  
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All this and the damned things are HEAVY, to boot. Careful what you wish for. P certainly has a great sense of humor, don't they?
Change back to lugs, have more fun, weigh less, drive more.
Old 10-29-2010, 11:16 PM
  #126  
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It is not that hard to break or torque the CL wheels IMHO.. Just eat more cheese.
Old 11-06-2010, 02:47 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by LehmanZ06
I would recommend pulling up on the breaker bar. It's hard to put the required force needed to break the wheels when pushing down.

But pulling up is MUCH easier. As you push upwards with your legs. I also weigh 180 lbs and had a bit of difficulty when pushing down.....easier pulling up and using legs.

Thinkl deadlift.....vs bench press
Please be careful when applying such large amounts of force using your body - your suggestion of pulling up will cause excessive strain and may even lead to permanent back injury with such high forces.

Always use your weight to advantage, and let the lever arm help you instead.

Please be safe...

SNB
Old 06-15-2011, 07:45 AM
  #128  
daveo4porsche
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Originally Posted by Blaine S
Optimol Paste TA (P/N 000 043 020 00) is at Sunset Imports for $20, go get it you cheap bastards :-)
I found the paste online at http://www.gaudinjaguarparts.com/ for $20.69. Questions:

1. is there a shelf life for this stuff? i.e. can I order a few tubes to store so I always have some on-hand.
2. How long should a tube last - 1 tube = 1 4 wheel swap?

thanks,
Old 06-16-2011, 09:18 AM
  #129  
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Wouldn't a good marine grease work fine for this? Do we really need the Porsche stuff? It is currently backordered at the couple places I've tried to get it. The grease is mainly there so things don't get surface rust, right??
Old 06-16-2011, 10:02 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by skl
Wouldn't a good marine grease work fine for this? Do we really need the Porsche stuff? It is currently backordered at the couple places I've tried to get it. The grease is mainly there so things don't get surface rust, right??
I don't have CL's yet but that is exactly what I was thinking. Being a boater I have marine grease on hand all the time.
Old 06-16-2011, 10:20 AM
  #131  
Izzone
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Originally Posted by mdrums
Originally Posted by skl
Wouldn't a good marine grease work fine for this? Do we really need the Porsche stuff? It is currently backordered at the couple places I've tried to get it. The grease is mainly there so things don't get surface rust, right??
I don't have CL's yet but that is exactly what I was thinking. Being a boater I have marine grease on hand all the time.
Buy it from suncoast
Old 06-16-2011, 11:10 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by mdrums
I don't have CL's yet but that is exactly what I was thinking. Being a boater I have marine grease on hand all the time.
Then you should be wearing gloves.
Old 06-16-2011, 11:13 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by daveo4porsche
I found the paste online at http://www.gaudinjaguarparts.com/ for $20.69. Questions:

1. is there a shelf life for this stuff? i.e. can I order a few tubes to store so I always have some on-hand.
2. How long should a tube last - 1 tube = 1 4 wheel swap?

thanks,
I don't see any dates on the tube. One small tube (half the size of a toothpaste tube) has lasted a year and is perhaps 10-20% spent max.
Old 06-16-2011, 11:14 AM
  #134  
Larry Cable
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Originally Posted by skl
Wouldn't a good marine grease work fine for this? Do we really need the Porsche stuff? It is currently backordered at the couple places I've tried to get it. The grease is mainly there so things don't get surface rust, right??
I *think* that the grease might effect the friction coefficient, so I would not replace the Porsche lubricant with any arbitrary grease.
Old 06-16-2011, 11:22 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by skl
Wouldn't a good marine grease work fine for this? Do we really need the Porsche stuff? It is currently backordered at the couple places I've tried to get it. The grease is mainly there so things don't get surface rust, right??
No car with centerlocks from Porsche is under $100K (yet.) What's the point in avoiding the $20-30?

This grease is participating in the friction calculations for the torque and load bearing of the lock nut. It has to remain consistent across a wide range of operating temperatures and conditions. The Porsche branded tube of grease is quite likely an generic grease suited to high temp and high pressure applications, but it could have other properties (its adherence to the particular working surfaces, it's reluctance to attract contaminants, etc.) "Marine" greases are lithium-molybdenum with the general purpose of being waterproof and not promoting electrolysis. These are breeds of the same species, but not interchangeable; at least, not without specifications of the Porsche goop.


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