LOL.....got me...

 

Suncoast is out of it- have 20 on a wait list...maybe I should be 21...

 

Just a note.

It seems after applying a well greased nut, especially the rears......well.....it's a son of a bitch to get off.

This is what I do now.......slip the end of a jack handle over my 42" breaker.....giving me like another 18" or so.........PRESTO !

 

I had a lot a difficulty breaking the CL bolts loose on my 3 at the old 370 lb-ft torque spec. With the new 440 lb-ft spec it was even more difficult to pull the wheels off after a track session as the 40" handle length on my 3/4" breaker bar just didn't provide leverage. I ended up obtaining length of seamless steel tubing with 1/8" wall thickness from McMaster-Carr that is a neat fit on the handle on my breaker bar. The CL bolts now can be removed fairly easily with the tubing providing a 60" overall handle length.

 

God info

 

Hello Guys,

I am a GTS owner and have been following the threads. This is an interesting one for sure. I am a CL wheel newbie.

Seems there is alot of fear, uncertainty and doubt about CL wheels. But after a tutorial at Porsche of Fremont, the procedure seems fairly straightforward.

Some points that I gathered from the tutorial:

1. The caps - don't use a screw driver if you don't have to......get a small piece of plastic or instrument and insert at an angle and pry - use a piece of tape to avoid marring when you pry...relube the cap o-rings.

2. OK to partly loosen wheels while on ground with someone pushing on the brake.

3. Very obvious when you see it the first time - must be jacked to torque it because of conical hub - if you don't, then, well you will possibly not have a wheel that is properly and completely seated on the hub, and a false torque reading. It is really easy to put the wheel on and screw on the nut with the car jacked. The greasing procedure is no biggy, just a little on hub and the o-rings - thin film.

4. The torquing procedure is simply torque, loosen a little (60 degrees), and retorque. maybe takes 5-10 s max.

5. After torquing, just make sure that the spring loaded locking pin is fully extended, very easy to get it to extend, in my hands-on opinion. Takes about 5-10 s.

as per savvyboy:

Jack it, brake it, torque it, break it, remove it. Then grease it, brake it, torque it, drop it.

No torqueing unless you are jacked.

Use braking to achieve breaking and torqueing.

Use grease!

Check your splines!

So simple!

 

I just read through the entire thread and briefly scanned through the bulletin. I understand the reasoning behind breaking loose/torque the wheels off the ground, but I don't understand (maybe I overlooked the explanation in this thread) the point of torquing to 600Nm, then loosen 60 degrees, then torque to 600Nm again...WTH? So I need to use torque wrench, switch to breaker bar, then back to torque wrench???

 

Depends on the torque wrench. If you have the Precesion Instruments wrench most everyone has from tooltopia.com then you can use just the torque wrench since it works both ways with out damaging the wrench

 

Yes, that's what I'm getting too. But I still don't understand the point behind it...

 

It is to make sure the conical surface fits perfectly I guess.

 

Deutsch Ritual.

 

My OCD just loves it!

 

i had the center locks replaced by dealer and just took the wheels off. needed to add an extension bar onto my 40" breaker bar and jump on it to loosen it! it was way higher than 600ftlb! i had my torque wrench set to 600ftlb just to check and it clicked after much grunting. anyone else have a dealer really crank these things down?

 

Yes. My selling dealer did the recall before they sent the car out to me. I had my local shop do a service and alignment after it arrived. They are used to working on these cars and said they had never had a car come in torqued down so hard. They were afraid they weren't going to come off.

 

I just read through this thread on CLs. Recently took mine off and back on for the first time. I have the same torque wrench you mention. Honestly, aside from the greasing, the 3 step tightening process with switching from torque wrench to breaker bar and back to torque wrench - and switching the CL nut tool each time - was the most annoying part of the process.

So...using the torque wrench to loosen after torquing to 440 won't damage the wrench? I seem to recall reading conflicting info on this.

Can anyone clarify this for me? Why are we all using breaker bars at all if it is safe to use the torque wrench to loosen after torquing to 440?

Thanks