Turning top mounts, any pics?
#1
Drifting
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Does anyone here have pictures on how to inverse the top mounts to get more negative camber in the front? Aren't there any disadvantages when doing it like this compared to using shims for the control arms?
#2
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I have a 6gt3 but regarding shims vs rotation same things apply.
Its best to rotate the struts and and use shims to get the desired camber.
If you just rotate you ll end up with too little caster which is not good on the other hand if you only use shims to get the negative camber you will have too much caster, wider front track and probably your tires will rub too.
John
Its best to rotate the struts and and use shims to get the desired camber.
If you just rotate you ll end up with too little caster which is not good on the other hand if you only use shims to get the negative camber you will have too much caster, wider front track and probably your tires will rub too.
John
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Archives has some pics. Get a local race shop that has done the strut rotation to do this. You'll need an alignment anyhow so best to let them take care of it.
One teeny-tiny disadvantage to strut rotation that probably won't apply to you: If you plan on competing in the stock class of SCCA autocrossing, strut rotation isn't allowed. Shims only. I believe Street Prepared allows strut rotation.
Cheers,
One teeny-tiny disadvantage to strut rotation that probably won't apply to you: If you plan on competing in the stock class of SCCA autocrossing, strut rotation isn't allowed. Shims only. I believe Street Prepared allows strut rotation.
Cheers,
#6
Racer
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NOT excatly, you actually increase caster slightly (just slightly) by rotating the tops. Adding shims really increases caster and makes your front track wider which you don't really want
Bernie
Bernie
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You will need the following,
Airplane deep spark plug socket as close to 22mm that you can find. They are usually imperial. Make sure that the socket has 6 point sides on the top so that you can place a spanner/wrench on it.
A 3/8" 7mm allen key socket with extension bar.
Remove front wheel and place jack stand under car.
Place jack under front wheel hub to support the strut tower.
Remove the 3 nuts holding the strut tower.
Let the strut gently down slightly.
If you try to loosen the centre strut nut with the socket by itself it will simply spin around with the centre bolt. So you need to hold the bolt with the 7mm allen key to loosen the nut.
Place the spark plug adapter over the centre nut of the strut and place the 7mm allen key through the top of the socket into the allen bolt in the top of the tower. You will need to keep this allen key bolt still as you loosen the nut. Place the wrench on the socket and loosen it and take the nut off.
There is little or no spring tension, so you wont need to use spring tensioners.
Lower the strut so you can remove the strut top. Be careful you dont stretch any brake lines or any abs wires etc.
Remove the top hat and screw the 3 nuts onto the top hat bolts until they sit level with the top of the bolt. This will allow you to hit the bolt with a hammer without damaging the nut or bolt.
Open a vice so that the opening is slightly larger than the top hat bolt. Place a couple of washers that the centre is slightly larger than the top hat bolt head on the opening of the vice. Place the top hat onto the washer and hit the nut fairly hard with a hammer. You will find that the bolt will come out after a few hard hits.
Replace the bolts in the other 3 holes and replace the top hat onto the strut.
Tighten the centre strut bolt to 80Nm.
The 3 nuts on the top hat are 30Nm.
You will now have at least -2.5 degrees negative camber.
You will also have about 12mm toe out per wheel, so you will need to adjust.
I know it's longwinded, but hope it helps.
Ciao
Krash
#9
Drifting
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Thanks for the explanation. As I have never seen these parts myself IRL it is a bit hard imagining how to do this, but what is the result? Are you removing some kind of bolt in the top strut? And what do you mean by "replace the bolts in the other 3 holes". What do they need to be replaced with?
*will start looking for pictures of these pieces*
*will start looking for pictures of these pieces*
#11
Drifting
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Is your explanation basically the procedure for removing the 3 bolts in the strut mount and putting them in the other 3 holes?
The 12mm toe-out, can you get that adjusted without using shims?
Sorry for all the noob questions, this is quite new to me
The 12mm toe-out, can you get that adjusted without using shims?
Sorry for all the noob questions, this is quite new to me
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#12
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Hi ir_fuel,
The picture you have posted is the top hats with the 3 bolts. If you look carefully at the hole in the middle, you will notice that it is off centre. As you look at the picture it is closer to the top bolt than the bottom hole. The strut goes through that hole. If you can imagine the strut starting at the bottom where the wheel is, it will go up to the top at a certain angle. If you remove those three bolts and put them in the other three holes, then you turn the hat 180 degrees ie upside down in picture, then that will make the strut lean more.
You need to tap out the 3 bolts to do that.
Are these hats in the photo the ones you're going to use? If they are, without looking at my car, they may be set for maximum camber already.
With the toe you will have to undo the the tie rod nut and turn the toe adjustment bar. You will need a 20mm, 21mm and a 13mm open wrench for that.
Placing shims on the bottom arm only increases the camber and the track. It is not used to adjust toe.
Here are a couple of links that may help
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/caym...g-install.html
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/g...underhill.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...SmagSocket.php . You are better off getting the 1/2" drive socket, because then you can fit the 3/8 extension through the top.
Regards
Krash
The picture you have posted is the top hats with the 3 bolts. If you look carefully at the hole in the middle, you will notice that it is off centre. As you look at the picture it is closer to the top bolt than the bottom hole. The strut goes through that hole. If you can imagine the strut starting at the bottom where the wheel is, it will go up to the top at a certain angle. If you remove those three bolts and put them in the other three holes, then you turn the hat 180 degrees ie upside down in picture, then that will make the strut lean more.
You need to tap out the 3 bolts to do that.
Are these hats in the photo the ones you're going to use? If they are, without looking at my car, they may be set for maximum camber already.
With the toe you will have to undo the the tie rod nut and turn the toe adjustment bar. You will need a 20mm, 21mm and a 13mm open wrench for that.
Placing shims on the bottom arm only increases the camber and the track. It is not used to adjust toe.
Here are a couple of links that may help
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/caym...g-install.html
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/g...underhill.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...SmagSocket.php . You are better off getting the 1/2" drive socket, because then you can fit the 3/8 extension through the top.
Regards
Krash
Last edited by RS LOVER; 08-20-2010 at 10:30 AM.
#13
Drifting
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Thanks for all the info man!
No that picture was not taken by me. I just googled it so I could understand a bit better what you were explaining, but I got it now. There are 2 ways of mounting those struts, where the second one gives you more neg. camber.
I will not perform the work myself but I'll have the guy doing the alignment do it.
this will be done on an mk2 997 GT3 btw.
No that picture was not taken by me. I just googled it so I could understand a bit better what you were explaining, but I got it now. There are 2 ways of mounting those struts, where the second one gives you more neg. camber.
I will not perform the work myself but I'll have the guy doing the alignment do it.
this will be done on an mk2 997 GT3 btw.
#15
Three Wheelin'
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I had reduced caster when rotating the tops on my 6Gt3, with my GT2 I used shims with no problems with push!