Breaker bar length to remove centerlocks?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Breaker bar length to remove centerlocks?
I was wondering if those of you that routinely take your centerlocks on and off what length of breaker bar you use?
I was surprised that with my 3-footer I can't get the centerlocks to budge.
TIA
I was surprised that with my 3-footer I can't get the centerlocks to budge.
TIA
#2
Admin
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
#3
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
how much do you weigh?
if you are more than 170lbs, have someone step on the brake, a 36" breaker bar will work fine.
if you are more than 170lbs, have someone step on the brake, a 36" breaker bar will work fine.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks John - interesting thread. The Porsche tool looks nice but I think mine are just on really tight.
Mooty - I'm 215 lbs and can put some force down. I've removed the two rears with the help of a 3' length of 1 1/4" pipe as a cheater but the fronts are not cooperating and I'm starting to bend my shorter breaker because of the cheater.
Re-torquing the wheels is no problem. It is just getting them off the first time.
Mooty - I'm 215 lbs and can put some force down. I've removed the two rears with the help of a 3' length of 1 1/4" pipe as a cheater but the fronts are not cooperating and I'm starting to bend my shorter breaker because of the cheater.
Re-torquing the wheels is no problem. It is just getting them off the first time.
#6
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thanks John - interesting thread. The Porsche tool looks nice but I think mine are just on really tight.
Mooty - I'm 215 lbs and can put some force down. I've removed the two rears with the help of a 3' length of 1 1/4" pipe as a cheater but the fronts are not cooperating and I'm starting to bend my shorter breaker because of the cheater.
Re-torquing the wheels is no problem. It is just getting them off the first time.
Mooty - I'm 215 lbs and can put some force down. I've removed the two rears with the help of a 3' length of 1 1/4" pipe as a cheater but the fronts are not cooperating and I'm starting to bend my shorter breaker because of the cheater.
Re-torquing the wheels is no problem. It is just getting them off the first time.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks mooty - I had my neighbor's son come over and give me a hand ("wow, this car has the biggest brakes I've ever seen....)
Got the fronts off. I'm sure that it will be easier the second time. They were just really on there!
Got the fronts off. I'm sure that it will be easier the second time. They were just really on there!
Trending Topics
#9
Northern tool has a nice 42" breaker bar that works well for me.
#10
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Trying to be the driver my car wants me to be
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Blaine,
I have the same Ghetto settup as you, but am using a 4' Length galvenized pipe over a Sears 3/4" drive breaker bar. I am expecting the breaker bar to, umm, "break" at some point under the pressure but this has not happened yet. My first attempt way back when was with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. That attempt ended with getting back in the car to go back to Sears for the 3/4" drive. Not one of my proudest moments!
I have the same Ghetto settup as you, but am using a 4' Length galvenized pipe over a Sears 3/4" drive breaker bar. I am expecting the breaker bar to, umm, "break" at some point under the pressure but this has not happened yet. My first attempt way back when was with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. That attempt ended with getting back in the car to go back to Sears for the 3/4" drive. Not one of my proudest moments!
#11
A regular breaker bar from Sears or Snapon is about 15" long. We torque to 96 ftlbs. If you want to use the same effort with centerlocks, use math. 385ftlbs is 4 times the torque that we normally use. So make the lever 4 times as long and the effrort is equal. 60" lever or five feet. With a 48" breaker bar more effort would be required than normal but it would be do-able. Using a 3' breaker will require a lot of strength. I could manufacture (weld up) a few if the demand is there. Does any body want one?
I would use light weight crome molly in stead of galv. pipe.
I would use light weight crome molly in stead of galv. pipe.
#13
#14
As mentioned in some other topics. I have a 3 piece breaker bar and torque wrench from precision instruments. Always carry it with me in the trunk and have used it a couple of times already.