screech66

Well, the Napleton Porsche guys have a lot of race experience and I trust their advice. They have over 10 GT3 owners that regularly go to HPDE events and they all run steel rotors with Pagid yellows and they have no complaints. I am inclined to believe I am not braking properly like ir_fuel and several other people have told me. I have had excellent instruction but not enough practice and I don't think I use the proper technique consistently. I understand the proper braking technique is, don't jab the pedal, but apply the brakes maximally over a very short duration of time initially and trail off. I think Ir_fuel makes a good point. I will not become a better driver by going back to PCCB to cover up my mistakes. I guess it is better to stick with steel and Pagid yellow and see if I can brake properly, more consistently, thus keeping the pads within proper operating temperature. I also need to get an experienced driver to drive the car for a good 20 minute hot lap session to see if he okays the brakes. Another good thing would be to get a data acquisition system and have an experienced instructor review my braking data. I guess you can compare the rate of change in speed with the braking duration and see if I am braking too long.

TrackDays247.com

Still don't think it is you.
So much reserve with a GT3 setup that this sort of thing virtually never happens.

TrackDays247.com

Typically this is the reaction - squeaky but great:

https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...questions.html

screech66

So what do you recommend, Craig? Maybe I bedded the pads wrong and glazed them? If so, I understand they are fried and need to be replaced. Should I try a new set of Pagid yellows before going back to PCCB? Or, should I try Pagid blacks or even Performance Friction 01's? Or, do you think it is some compatibility issue with my particular car? The only thing I can think of is, something with the ABS is malfunctioning. Rather than giving a pulsating pedal, it is just pedal resistance and it isn't slowing the car because the ABS is confused, thinking it is on a slick surface. I posted to a thread here about "ABS ice", have you heard of that? I guess if the outside diameter of your track tire are more than 3% different than the stock tires, the ABS sensors can be thrown off. The Porsche technicians assure me no problems are showing up with the ABS on their computer diagnostics.

TrackDays247.com

You should feel like you are be braking like a mother .... BEFORE ABS kicks in.

If it were my car:
1) Take pictures of the front rotors and pad surfaces and post here
2) Have the car read for codes at a good shop

AllanJ

Screech: you may have glazed the pads. That'll mess things up. fyi, why flush the brake fluid before each event? I'm pretty hard on brakes and only flush with new fluid once in the spring and I use "lesser" Motul RBF600. This lasts all year, usually 14-ish days with never any sign of reduced braking ability. I'd bleed the fluid if I ever needed to, but the pedal is solid and the brakes perform extremely well.

screech66

Well, the Napleton Porsche technicians are outstanding. They have inspected my pads and rotors. I only have about 100-200 track miles or so on the pads and rotors and virtually 0 public road miles. I think they said the pad thickness has hardly worn at all. How many track miles should you get on a set of Pagid yellows? I drive pretty aggressively, brake late and hard. Some high speed tracks, Road America and VIR I routinely hit 145-150.

screech66

Hey AllanJ, well, I believe that is a PCA HPDE tech inspection requirement to flush the fluid. My understanding is, running 3 days all out at a track like Road America or VIR, the heat can break down the brake fluid, so it is just a precautionary measure to run with fresh fluid before a long event.

AllanJ

ok...being cautious is fine. I wasn't sure if you were experiencing other problems leading to excessive heat and boiling your fluid.