Mk 2 RS Track Alignment How much Neg Camber?
06-07-2010, 08:16 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Agree about the effects of a better LSD but with so few track miles on my car the wear on the outside edges is strictly a lack of negative camber. I now have neg 2.4 in front neg 2.2 in back. I was able to get 2.4 without rotating the struts or adding shims. Off to the track tomorrow to test. I suspect that the setup will end up being the same as the Mk 1 RS. I would have gone for neg 2.5 in front but I did not have shims handy.
07-18-2010, 05:10 PM
#18
Can we get an update on alignment? I am coming from a 996 GT3 and ran -2.4f/2.3R, zero toe up front, .12" toe in per side in rear, and front bar full stiff, rear one from full soft.
I notice stock bar on .2 RS is 1 from full soft front, one from full stiff rear, presumably to keep the car more neutral in the absence of front grip.
As you put more grip up front for your alignment are you adjusting the bars to avoid too much oversteer (stiffening the front, softening the rear?)
I want to get the car aligned before taking it to the track and would love any feedback folks have had on their most recent changes. Thanks.
I notice stock bar on .2 RS is 1 from full soft front, one from full stiff rear, presumably to keep the car more neutral in the absence of front grip.
As you put more grip up front for your alignment are you adjusting the bars to avoid too much oversteer (stiffening the front, softening the rear?)
I want to get the car aligned before taking it to the track and would love any feedback folks have had on their most recent changes. Thanks.
07-18-2010, 06:41 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Only on tracks with very long corners like PBIR do I go full soft in the front, otherwise 1 or 2 holes from full soft, depending on track and the tires.
The rear seems best left in the middle, I have tried frull stiff, but the car was to loose.
I run -2.5 F (Not rotated, just shims) and -2.0 rear, zero toe front and a bit toe in rear.
The rear seems best left in the middle, I have tried frull stiff, but the car was to loose.
I run -2.5 F (Not rotated, just shims) and -2.0 rear, zero toe front and a bit toe in rear.
07-18-2010, 07:42 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Just got back from a 3 day. Similar setup as Trakcar. Running 2.5 up front (rotated struts), 2.0 in rear. 0 Toe front, little in the rear. Played with bars a lot. Ended at rear center, and one off full soft in front. Car definitely has more rear grip than my 07GT3. Even temps and even wear (way better than my '07). Was running hoosiers and got 14HC before fronts corded. Car still had a bit of front push in a slower speed carousel, but planted on high speed corners. Levitas was out at the track testing a car, so recommended lowering front a bit. Going to try that next event.
08-12-2010, 12:54 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
2011 GT3 Alignment
After reading this thread and talking to a few rennlist folks I decided to go with the following settings. I will be a Laguna Seca on the Aug 20-22 weekend the see how the new GT3 compares to my 996 GT3. Running Hoosier R6's and MPSC.
Front Settings:
Camber -2.8
1/16 total toe OUT
Rear settings:
Camber -2.5
3/16 total toe IN
No tire rubbing issues at full lock with the Hoosier mounted on Forgeline 18X9, 18X12 wheels. Had to rotate the front struts to get -2.8 camber. Also installed Tarret Engineering adjustable rear toe links.
Front Settings:
Camber -2.8
1/16 total toe OUT
Rear settings:
Camber -2.5
3/16 total toe IN
No tire rubbing issues at full lock with the Hoosier mounted on Forgeline 18X9, 18X12 wheels. Had to rotate the front struts to get -2.8 camber. Also installed Tarret Engineering adjustable rear toe links.
Last edited by Polarporsche; 08-13-2010 at 12:52 PM.
08-12-2010, 09:19 AM
#24
Still plays with cars.
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Member
Thread Starter
FWIW - I ended up with neg 2.5 in front and neg 2.2 in the rear. With neg 2.4 in back I corded the inside edges of my R6s.
The notion that the new model needs less negative camber seems bogus.
Best,
The notion that the new model needs less negative camber seems bogus.
Best,
08-12-2010, 10:45 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
I would have gone less in the rear with the MPSC but felt the Hoosier needed a little more negative camber so I decided on the -2.8, I'll let you know how the rears hold up after the LS weekend.
08-12-2010, 12:07 PM
#27
Track Day
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08-13-2010, 03:07 AM
#28
GT3 player par excellence
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08-13-2010, 11:24 AM
#29
* wider front tires
* different compound (Sport Cup +)
* wider front track
* "solid" engine mounts
* more front weight bias
* different suspension setup
* different PASM settings in normal and sport
* more rear aero down force
* stickers
There might not be much in it, but it's self-evident that the two cars will run different setups.
I still don't know where the sweet spot hides, but it's somewhere at -1.9 or above (not below) in the front with the new Sport Cups.
For better or worse, my next weekend at Laguna will be on different tires (that's three events with three different tire sets, so I don't have much real data.) One thing for sure: stock setup of tires and sways on stock alignment works really well. There's moderate understeer, which can be partially offset with tire pressure and then relatively easily driven to compensate.
08-13-2010, 11:27 AM
#30
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The new RS has:
* wider front tires
* different compound (Sport Cup +)
* wider front track
* "solid" engine mounts
* more front weight bias
* different suspension setup
* different PASM settings in normal and sport
* more rear aero down force
* stickers
There might not be much in it, but it's self-evident that the two cars will run different setups.
I still don't know where the sweet spot hides, but it's somewhere at -1.9 or above (not below) in the front with the new Sport Cups.
For better or worse, my next weekend at Laguna will be on different tires (that's three events with three different tire sets, so I don't have much real data.) One thing for sure: stock setup of tires and sways on stock alignment works really well. There's moderate understeer, which can be partially offset with tire pressure and then relatively easily driven to compensate.
* wider front tires
* different compound (Sport Cup +)
* wider front track
* "solid" engine mounts
* more front weight bias
* different suspension setup
* different PASM settings in normal and sport
* more rear aero down force
* stickers
There might not be much in it, but it's self-evident that the two cars will run different setups.
I still don't know where the sweet spot hides, but it's somewhere at -1.9 or above (not below) in the front with the new Sport Cups.
For better or worse, my next weekend at Laguna will be on different tires (that's three events with three different tire sets, so I don't have much real data.) One thing for sure: stock setup of tires and sways on stock alignment works really well. There's moderate understeer, which can be partially offset with tire pressure and then relatively easily driven to compensate.
Nice carrera nice