RS: On The Boat (ONVESL)
03-04-2010, 04:37 PM
#76
Rennlist Member
Do NOT take it easy the first 100-200 miles. Those early miles are the one critical opportunity to get the engine broken in early and well. In fact, unless some weird circumstance prevents me from doing so, on my first drive once oil is up to temp I go deep into throttle in 2nd/3rd gear multiple times. Slow down alternating under engine braking and brakes during different pulls.
Really the first 50 miles is key to load it up under hard throttle ("trottle" if you are from Brazil...lol).
The reason to do it again on successive days is to allow for several heating/coolig cycles of the engine and further mate the moving parts.
How do you think racing engines are broken in? Driving the race car for 5000 miles around a track? Think about it...
*Warm the oil to temp.
* Don't lug it.
* Drive it like you stole it.
(I graduated from Nashville Auto Diesel College back in 1980, and have worked in automotive for 20 years.)
Really the first 50 miles is key to load it up under hard throttle ("trottle" if you are from Brazil...lol).
The reason to do it again on successive days is to allow for several heating/coolig cycles of the engine and further mate the moving parts.
How do you think racing engines are broken in? Driving the race car for 5000 miles around a track? Think about it...
*Warm the oil to temp.
* Don't lug it.
* Drive it like you stole it.
(I graduated from Nashville Auto Diesel College back in 1980, and have worked in automotive for 20 years.)
03-04-2010, 04:57 PM
#77
Drifting
Thread Starter
:* The Leader in Porsche 997 street to track car conversions
* Eight Professional Racing Championships
* GT3 Maintenance and Track Prep
* Arrive and Drive Programs
* VIP Suite and Trackside Hospitality
* Corporate Events
Hope you don't mind me tooting your horn Cole!
Why some here are suggesting that changing fluids ( tranny, gearbox) in addition to engine oil,after the initial break in on cars when the engines are run on dynos for several hours? and Porsche does recommed tranny/ gearbox fluid change long down the road after racking up many thousands of miles?
On a Nissan GT-R, yes, Porsche , no. (hey, it's true! lol)
Last edited by savyboy; 03-04-2010 at 06:08 PM. Reason: correct PDK/Tranny
03-04-2010, 09:25 PM
#79
Ditto here. Ugh.
I break-in all my cars the same way:
1. Start the engine.
2. Draw in the fine aroma of that new interior.
3. Warm the engine over several miles driving gently.
4. Begin 2nd and 3rd gear deep throttle (80-90%) roll-on's to about 10% under redline. Preferably while going uphill. 5-10 of these if possible.
5. Bed the brakes as a side benefit of the engine break-in procedure above
6. Rinse repeat over the next couple days and going all the way to red-line.
If all goes according to plan, car is 100% ready for track flogging and mileage is about 500. After 2-3 track days (8-12 sessions), change the oil for the first time.
My cars always run great and have very low oil consumption. The initial 100-200 miles is the critical time to seat everything in the top end of the engine and keep it from being an oil burner. Aggressive break-in also results in engines that make the best power.
The true things to NOT do during break in?
1. Never ever lug a new engine in a high gear, it kills the rod and main bearings.
2. Driving hard before engine is warm.
Lugging and big throttle before oil comes up to temp kills more engines than anything.
I break-in all my cars the same way:
1. Start the engine.
2. Draw in the fine aroma of that new interior.
3. Warm the engine over several miles driving gently.
4. Begin 2nd and 3rd gear deep throttle (80-90%) roll-on's to about 10% under redline. Preferably while going uphill. 5-10 of these if possible.
5. Bed the brakes as a side benefit of the engine break-in procedure above
6. Rinse repeat over the next couple days and going all the way to red-line.
If all goes according to plan, car is 100% ready for track flogging and mileage is about 500. After 2-3 track days (8-12 sessions), change the oil for the first time.
My cars always run great and have very low oil consumption. The initial 100-200 miles is the critical time to seat everything in the top end of the engine and keep it from being an oil burner. Aggressive break-in also results in engines that make the best power.
The true things to NOT do during break in?
1. Never ever lug a new engine in a high gear, it kills the rod and main bearings.
2. Driving hard before engine is warm.
Lugging and big throttle before oil comes up to temp kills more engines than anything.
03-04-2010, 10:40 PM
#80
Drifting
Thread Starter
Sounds like solid advice, Pete... I did the 'by the book' break-in last time and realized no obvious benefit. It just did not even feel good for the engine, toodling around below 4000 rpm. Certainly had no bearing on the RMS issue (which reared it's ugly head at 700 miles) and no effect on resale. Really deprived myself of a few months of driving pleasure for nothing...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh-x_F6WMfM
03-04-2010, 11:40 PM
#81
GT3 player par excellence
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03-05-2010, 04:13 AM
#82
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The point about depriving yourself of enjoyment by following a stupid running-in procedure is spot-on.
These cars are built to really fine tolerances and provided they are not abused don't need babying around. I've never had an engine fail and when buying new will almost certainly sell before the warranty expires anyway, so whats the benefit to me anyway.
I collected my 997 GT2 from the factory in '08 and within 30 miles it was pulling 180mph.
These cars are built to really fine tolerances and provided they are not abused don't need babying around. I've never had an engine fail and when buying new will almost certainly sell before the warranty expires anyway, so whats the benefit to me anyway.
I collected my 997 GT2 from the factory in '08 and within 30 miles it was pulling 180mph.
03-05-2010, 04:15 AM
#83
Rennlist Member
i know the engine is fine for a strong run in and also what I practice as well, but what about the differential and transmission? isn't the break in designed to ensure these components are worn in properly as well? I know its a lesser car, but the M differential is particularly sensitive to the break in period. engine is fine. ran to redline after built anyways.
03-05-2010, 11:45 AM
#84
Drifting
Thread Starter
i know the engine is fine for a strong run in and also what I practice as well, but what about the differential and transmission? isn't the break in designed to ensure these components are worn in properly as well? I know its a lesser car, but the M differential is particularly sensitive to the break in period. engine is fine. ran to redline after built anyways.
In all seriousness, you are talking about hardened, heat-treated, ultra-strong metal components. Wear occurs on a geological timescale, yes?
These parts are assembled using extremely fine tolerances. There is no wear-in to speak of. Any friction surfaces, such as synchros, clutch plates/packs in tranny or diff will be bedded in using my break-in procedure and via normal driving.Hard driving with cold components is the real killer.
03-05-2010, 04:06 PM
#85
Rennlist Member
03-09-2010, 12:56 PM
#86
Rennlist Member
(ONVESL)
03-09-2010, 07:12 PM
#87
Drifting
Thread Starter
Sitting there for 9 days now.Maybe they think aging them like a fine wine is of some benefit?
Haha... Come on PDI INVSHP!
03-10-2010, 05:56 PM
#90
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