Does toe out in the front make our GT3 track right?
#16
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Interesting; I run the stock 305 rear width with a 255 front (Toyo R888's) on 18's; I can't even imagine running 235's on the front anymore. I have my rear sway bar at either full stiff (or should I say stiff since it only has 3 total settings) with the front at neutral or one towards stiff depending on the difference in heat cycles between the front and rear tires (usually not the same since I can almost run 1 set of fronts to 2 sets of rears). However, I now have the GMG WC sway bars and started with both at neutral positions and quickly found that I needed to soften the front one notch. Of course alignment specs, tire pressures, and track layouts (among other criteria) also need to be considered to get the full picture.
But overall, the stock GT3 with factory settings is way to pushy for me.
But overall, the stock GT3 with factory settings is way to pushy for me.
#17
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Don't ignore tire wear and pressures -- just 2 psi high on one side and 2 psi low on the other side is enough to make the car behave poorly at speed on a track where it might go unnoticed on the street.
#18
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Yes, that sounds much better! Glad I'm not the only one. My GMG bars are stiffer than stock overall, but should allow for something similar to what you have. They made the rear one stiffer than the front, so similar to you running the GT2 bar in the rear.
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The OP is talking about regular street driving. With perfect street-spec alignment it is common for the car to pull slightly towards the side of the road as the road is cambered for water runoff. As you increase front toe-out, this effect will be amplified - with more toe the car will follow road camber more keenly.
Slightly re-adjusting caster on one side is a good way to mitigate the effect of road camber. I'm talking street use, not track.
Slightly re-adjusting caster on one side is a good way to mitigate the effect of road camber. I'm talking street use, not track.
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#21
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The OP is talking about regular street driving. With perfect street-spec alignment it is common for the car to pull slightly towards the side of the road as the road is cambered for water runoff. As you increase front toe-out, this effect will be amplified - with more toe the car will follow road camber more keenly.
Slightly re-adjusting caster on one side is a good way to mitigate the effect of road camber. I'm talking street use, not track.
Slightly re-adjusting caster on one side is a good way to mitigate the effect of road camber. I'm talking street use, not track.
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#22
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No need to change caster, but it should be equal left and right. With zero toe, the car will tend to "tram track" (or follow every change in the road surface) but if there's unusual steering change when going from braking, to coasting to accelerating, chances are there's a rear toe issue. The eccentric toe adjusters are easily damaged. If you track frequently and want to have the car dialed in, going to threaded rear toe/track control arms is the solution.
Don't ignore tire wear and pressures -- just 2 psi high on one side and 2 psi low on the other side is enough to make the car behave poorly at speed on a track where it might go unnoticed on the street.
Don't ignore tire wear and pressures -- just 2 psi high on one side and 2 psi low on the other side is enough to make the car behave poorly at speed on a track where it might go unnoticed on the street.
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The OP is talking about regular street driving. With perfect street-spec alignment it is common for the car to pull slightly towards the side of the road as the road is cambered for water runoff. As you increase front toe-out, this effect will be amplified - with more toe the car will follow road camber more keenly.
Slightly re-adjusting caster on one side is a good way to mitigate the effect of road camber. I'm talking street use, not track.
Slightly re-adjusting caster on one side is a good way to mitigate the effect of road camber. I'm talking street use, not track.
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#23
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I recall one test of the new GT3 mentioned that as part of revised geometry Porsche had changed from slight toe-in of MkI to neutral on MkII. Someone with more knowledge can probably provide exact specs.