NJ-GT

As most people know, Porsche screwed up the balance on the GT3 and GT3 RS with a soft rear bar, so the car pushes.

What's the average price of the 997 GT2 bar including bushings and bracket?

I'm wondering if the GMG sway bar kit is a better option.

C.J. Ichiban

I'm testing a new sway bar from a different company next week- wait a few days til I can review it before you jump on anything else

NJ-GT

Actually, I'm going to pass on the 997 GT2 bar, it is barely stiffer than the stock 997 GT3 bar (30% I read).

Cars setup with the rear bar at full stiff and front one at full soft still push on slow turns, a 30% stiffer bar won't fix this.

GMG has a rear bar 80% stiffer (55% stiffer on the middle hole, 30% stiffer in the softer hole) compared to stock. That's too much, but they also have a front bar that is 20%-50% stiffer so, that will fix the car. Rear bar at full stiff and front bar at one or two from stiff, with chances to go softer at the front for autoX.

This allows me to run softer springs (350/550), so I don't get too much out the range of the factory valving for the PASM shocks, also provides a better ride on the streets that my intended 450/650 setup (the one in my old car).

Erik

I paid $209.88 for swaybar and $15.94 for each bushing from Sunset. I was under the assumption that the GT2 sway bar was 20% stiffer at it's least stiff setting than the GT3 sway bar was at it's stiffest setting.

todinlaw

I know from your posts on other threads that you are in the process of looking into spring rates and changing your suspension. My comment hear, i don't know if putting in a stiffer sway is the answer to the GT3 pushing problem. the more rear sway you use the less balanced the car will be in the corner. i.e. when you rely on the way to keep the car stable in a corner it lifts the inner tire. I like your approch in the other thread of using a stiffer spring and less sway for stability and less push. That's just my two cents as I have not done it yet but will when the snow fly's.

jrgordonsenior

Rad what about the blade type cup bars?

NJ-GT

As much as I like them, I can't justify the $2,500-$3,000 per axle.

Typically, I prefer more springs and less bar, but my options are limited with the 997 GT3. I don't know of a softer adjustable front bar yet.

The stock bars are way out of balance. I have the rear at full stiff and front at full soft, and the car is fine (neutral), but this is also from testing it yesterday with MPSC 265/325, with the 265 being a full-spec MPSC, I bet that the car would push running OEM tires.

A softer front or stiffer rear bar is needed, so you can fine tune the balance when running different tire brands, widths, compound, diameters.

mooty

yes with oem tires, full stiff front, full soft rear, it pushes a lot.

TRAKCAR

What push?? RS maybe, GT3 not that I can tell yet....

Almost full soft front, full stiff rear, -1.8 front -2.5 rear Toyo R888 Hot F36 R38

I came out of a very pushy car, so I think I may be used to drive around the problem, if it lets go, it is always the rear..

sasportas

Curious how you made out with 265/325? I have run with real MPSC 265/35/18 x 315/30/18 - eliminates push, but strangely starts to add a little oversteer. Adding front camber -2.9 takes away a lot of the push. Also, what size R888's were you running.

As you know, I have been running nearly full stiff on the front bar and full soft in the rear. I may try the GMG bars. Curious as to any experience with these bars.

NJ-GT

RS has a longer wheel base, and a 32mm wider rear track. Suspension tuning is also different (PASM valving). No idea about the springs.

It pushes a little, at least on Los Angeles Crest HWY on the tight turns on brand new MPSC 265/325. The car is very stable. However, I need a loose car for AutoX, and this one won't let adjust anything else (unless I play with alignment, which I don't want).

I prefer a car that is neutral when the bars are on the middle settings, so I can make it push or oversteer by playing with the bars.

For AutoX I set the car loose, for track I set it to push, for Time Trials I set it loose. Right now I can not adjust the car to be loose, because I have maxed out the bars (full soft front, full stiff rear).

gtdrei

Rad,

Was the 996 more balanced as far as sways were concerned ? Or did you also replace the bars on that car ?

Robin

NJ-GT

The 996 was very balanced, the push was due to alignment, but once you set the alignment everything was fine. The 996/997 have similar dynamics, that's why their track and AutoX alignment is similar (same thing with the 996 and 997 Cup cars).

No idea what happened to Porsche with the 7GT3 bars, but that's an easy and affordable fix, a 997 GT2 bar will do it, but I prefer the GMG bars, due to the higher number of available settings that you can use.

Erik

Rad,

Call Ira over at Tarett Engineering, he's working on his own blade type sway bar that will be much more affordable then the Porsche Motorsport ones. When I spoke with him about 2 months ago he was actually looking for some CA track junkies to do some testing. For me personally, the GT2 sway bar was more then enough, I guess I'm not that sensitive, and am never 100% sure what is causing the over/under steer on a particular day. i.e. new tires, worn out tires, too high/low of a pressure, cold day, greasy track, etc etc.

Carrera GT

Where's the info on the pasm differences?

And the RS has a longer track than what; a GT3? (no)

For me, in a GT3, I find 265's on the front (Sport Cups) and a GT2 sway in the rear set on full stiff for the track or medium on the street creates a nicely balanced, not quite "pointy" car, but you can apply throttle to transition to oversteer instead of understeer. And you don't need to trail-brake precariously to get the thing to rotate.

I'd like to try the "crazy 88's" (888's) but I haven't seen the right combination of front and rear sizes yet.