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View Poll Results: How did you fix the coolant lines failure issue?​​​​​​​
I haven't done anything about it yet
25
42.37%
Engine out + replaced ALL hoses, elbows, and couplings
6
10.17%
Engine out + pinned, glued, or soldered lines and replaced damaged parts
26
44.07%
Pinned, glued, or soldered lines and replaced damaged parts without taking the engine out
2
3.39%
Voters: 59. You may not vote on this poll

Poll: How did you fix the coolant lines failure issue?

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Old 12-07-2022, 11:17 AM
  #16  
lawrence1
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Originally Posted by avid
Thank you guys. My car will be tracked and between reading the bulletin and watching a pileup on the ring, I have to address it before I start pushing the car. That said, thoughts on how to address it range from "pin without taking the engine out" to "engine out and replacing everything and also doing some "while I'm in there" items. I've been quoted from $1k for the most basic to $20k for the full gig. It'll be interesting to see the results once we get a larger sample.
is this right? as in you actually got quoted $20K by someone? I wonder what that "full gig" included. Which shop was this? I figured MX labor costs would be much lower, or is this a US shop?

Nonetheless, engine mounts and other consumables are a bit of a no brainer given the age of the car and the labor overlap, which means you're just paying for parts and maybe very minimal labor (clutch, FW, plugs, RMS, etc.). The mileage might be low but based on age, you'll want to assess any other rubber hoses, vacuum lines and whatever else is difficult to access with the engine in the car. Regardless, unless you're doing something wild, $20K sounds a bit steep given the mileage unless you're getting into the gearbox, LSD, etc.

Old 12-07-2022, 12:10 PM
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Wilder
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Originally Posted by mchrono
Engine out as well. Here is the step by step of my car getting it done at SW:

https://www.sharkwerks.com/2008-whit...-pipes-amp-fix


Fantastic, thank you for sharing.

Originally Posted by lawrence1
is this right? as in you actually got quoted $20K by someone? I wonder what that "full gig" included. Which shop was this? I figured MX labor costs would be much lower, or is this a US shop?

Nonetheless, engine mounts and other consumables are a bit of a no brainer given the age of the car and the labor overlap, which means you're just paying for parts and maybe very minimal labor (clutch, FW, plugs, RMS, etc.). The mileage might be low but based on age, you'll want to assess any other rubber hoses, vacuum lines and whatever else is difficult to access with the engine in the car. Regardless, unless you're doing something wild, $20K sounds a bit steep given the mileage unless you're getting into the gearbox, LSD, etc.
It's a US shop. To clarify, the quote was a range of $15-20k and included not just full replacement of all lines etc. but also several other items like the coolant expansion tank, thermostat, water pump, pulley, LSD, LWF/clutch, and a few other items. Still sounds steep to me but then again, parts are almost double what they were even a couple of years ago. So, given the mileage, how soft the car has been driven, and cheaper MEX rates, I'm leaning toward doing the bare minimum of pinning lines and waiting until I have to do LSD or clutch to do everything else but you have a solid argument and there's something about just getting everything done and not having to think about any of this for the next decade.
Old 12-07-2022, 01:57 PM
  #18  
lawrence1
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Got it. Not sure I would go into the LSD at this point given the low mileage so that should save some money. Also, the coolant expansion tank, thermostat, water pump should be fine unless they're leaking or sticking open (thermostat), and even then i believe can be done with the engine in the car. If it was my car, i would to the coolant lines, clutch and FW (no need for 4.0 parts IMO, which also means you won't need the ATI damper), assess the RMS and rubber hoses, vacuum lines, etc. plus do the plugs and engine mounts and call it good. spending over $10K for this job seems a bit excessive IMO. If it was a car that had been tracked extensively or would be tracked extensively going forward, with 2x or 3x the miles on it, then maybe doing the 4.0 parts, LSD and other stuff would make more sense.

I still think $15K-$20K is ludicrous.
Old 12-07-2022, 02:30 PM
  #19  
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51% of voters are scaring the crap out of me...
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Old 12-08-2022, 05:14 PM
  #20  
Wilder
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Originally Posted by lawrence1
Got it. Not sure I would go into the LSD at this point given the low mileage so that should save some money. Also, the coolant expansion tank, thermostat, water pump should be fine unless they're leaking or sticking open (thermostat), and even then i believe can be done with the engine in the car. If it was my car, i would to the coolant lines, clutch and FW (no need for 4.0 parts IMO, which also means you won't need the ATI damper), assess the RMS and rubber hoses, vacuum lines, etc. plus do the plugs and engine mounts and call it good. spending over $10K for this job seems a bit excessive IMO. If it was a car that had been tracked extensively or would be tracked extensively going forward, with 2x or 3x the miles on it, then maybe doing the 4.0 parts, LSD and other stuff would make more sense.

I still think $15K-$20K is ludicrous.
Thank you so much for your input. I much rather put this kind of money on mods but ultimately it's important and I'm still debating how far to go. It does seem redundant to do certain things but I also don't want to drop the engine again in a year or two. I'm even getting de Dundon itch now...

Originally Posted by Burren
51% of voters are scaring the crap out of me...
+1
Old 12-08-2022, 10:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Burren
51% of voters are scaring the crap out of me...
Agreed! Pinning with the engine in the car is still a reasonably easy DIY. Steve W’s thread is an excellent guide… https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...n-the-car.html
Old 12-08-2022, 11:41 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by The Mick
Agreed! Pinning with the engine in the car is still a reasonably easy DIY. Steve W’s thread is an excellent guide… https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...n-the-car.html
Thank you for this. Great thread.

As a noob to the GT3, it boggles my mind that an issue that dates back nearly 15 years remains unaddressed by so many. I hope this thread inspires a few more people to get it done.
Old 12-09-2022, 11:44 PM
  #23  
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I specifically sought out a car that was properly sorted for track duty.
No front lift
Pinned Coolant lines
LSD upgrade
Proper seats and roll bar

I'm not hardcore on the track but I love driving it and hope to eek out years of fun.
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Old 12-10-2022, 01:39 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Hella-Buggin'
I specifically sought out a car that was properly sorted for track duty.
No front lift
Pinned Coolant lines
LSD upgrade
Proper seats and roll bar

I'm not hardcore on the track but I love driving it and hope to eek out years of fun.
Smart man. Same goal but I wasn't as lucky to find something as track ready. Cheers.
Old 12-10-2022, 02:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by avid
Smart man. Same goal but I wasn't as lucky to find something as track ready. Cheers.
I had been tracking my 997.1 C2S for years and that car just has design flaws that make it a ticking time bomb due to oil starvation issues.
Once I got fast enough to see that happening I had to reel it in and figured that was my fate. But a few good years at work and the wifey
gave permission to upgrade. I jumped and had a car in two weeks. This was back about four years ago before things went all crazy town.
I specifically sought out the 997.2 GT3 because I wasn't concerned with being the fastest but was more into learning the skill to be fast.
The 991 is a faster car no doubt but I wanted to shift and I wanted a car that let me know when I wasn't doing something right.
I just love the 997 platform and can't imagine a more perfect car than the 997 GT3.
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Old 12-10-2022, 05:13 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Hella-Buggin'
I specifically sought out the 997.2 GT3 because I wasn't concerned with being the fastest but was more into learning the skill to be fast.
The 991 is a faster car no doubt but I wanted to shift and I wanted a car that let me know when I wasn't doing something right.
I just love the 997 platform and can't imagine a more perfect car than the 997 GT3.
That's exactly my thinking too. I want to explore the limits of my capabilities as a driver and have fun. I could care less about lap times or keeping up. I do a decent job of managing my ego. So, I too can't think of a better car, especially as a Porschephile. No offense to those who have one but I think it's even better than the RS from the standpoint of not having to worry about pushing a collectible $250k car, though these cars aren't cheap either. I just bought mine, and to stay on topic, the previous owner clearly didn't address the coolant lines issue.
Old 12-13-2022, 04:10 AM
  #27  
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this has been hashed many times.
don’t try to out think ur shop
engine out
pin or weld
while at it replace all rubber tubes belts
u can lie and euphemise whatever. there is one way to do it right. sure it may not happen to u. but when u skid over ur pee at 120mph… you WILL REMEMBER this post.
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Old 12-13-2022, 02:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mooty
sure it may not happen to u. but when u skid over ur pee at 120mph… you WILL REMEMBER this post.
I hope everyone who voted "I haven't done anything about it yet" reads this.
Old 12-13-2022, 05:30 PM
  #29  
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you could have had one more option..."I chose to purchase a car that already had the lines pinned". One thing that doesn't get mentioned enough is that Mid Ohio won't allow you on the track with a Metzger engine if the lines are not pinned (not sure if that is Mid Ohio's or PCA's rule). I'm also not sure how many tracks have that rule. I also realize not everyone tracks their car.
Old 12-13-2022, 05:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by my first 911
you could have had one more option..."I chose to purchase a car that already had the lines pinned". One thing that doesn't get mentioned enough is that Mid Ohio won't allow you on the track with a Metzger engine if the lines are not pinned (not sure if that is Mid Ohio's or PCA's rule). I'm also not sure how many tracks have that rule. I also realize not everyone tracks their car.
That can only be read as a testament to the seriousness of the problem.



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