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Poll: How did you fix the coolant lines failure issue?
The sticky on this is informative but different people seem to have addressed the issue differently and there is no way to quantify who has and who hasn't addressed the issue. I'm sorry for those to whom this is an old topic but there's still guys like me buying these cars with low miles and the issue unaddressed.
I replied "Engine out + pinned, glued, or soldered lines and replaced damaged parts" because my shop didn't recommend replacing every hose such as in the kit below. However, engine came out. Lines were pinned. Elbows were replaced with Sharkwerks elbows and I trusted that my shop replace anything that they thought needed to be done. My car had it done around 24k miles. If I could do it again, I'd just replace every hose such as in the link below. But again, scope creep.
Many C&C/Garage queen cars skip out on this as it's not as necessary. I understand that perspective and would agree its not MUST DO. But if you're tracking do it.
I replied "Engine out + pinned, glued, or soldered lines and replaced damaged parts" because my shop didn't recommend replacing every hose such as in the kit below. However, engine came out. Lines were pinned. Elbows were replaced with Sharkwerks elbows and I trusted that my shop replace anything that they thought needed to be done. My car had it done around 24k miles. If I could do it again, I'd just replace every hose such as in the link below. But again, scope creep.
Many C&C/Garage queen cars skip out on this as it's not as necessary. I understand that perspective and would agree its not MUST DO. But if you're tracking do it.
Thank you guys. My car will be tracked and between reading the bulletin and watching a pileup on the ring, I have to address it before I start pushing the car. That said, thoughts on how to address it range from "pin without taking the engine out" to "engine out and replacing everything and also doing some "while I'm in there" items. I've been quoted from $1k for the most basic to $20k for the full gig. It'll be interesting to see the results once we get a larger sample.
The lines should be pinned or welded regardless of tracking the car or not. The coolant lines can fail at anytime, meaning on the freeway, when you drive it hard through the canyons, when you rip a few gears around town......... The last thing you need is for it to fail under those environments, and usually when it fails its a full dump of ALL the coolant.
I don't see how anyone would spend 200K on a car and risk it slipping under its own coolant and crashing because its just a Cars & Coffee car.
Thank you guys. My car will be tracked and between reading the bulletin and watching a pileup on the ring, I have to address it before I start pushing the car. That said, thoughts on how to address it range from "pin without taking the engine out" to "engine out and replacing everything and also doing some "while I'm in there" items. I've been quoted from $1k for the most basic to $20k for the full gig. It'll be interesting to see the results once we get a larger sample.
For me this job really comes down to finding a shop you trust the quality of the work. You want to do this job once. if it means 1k or 10k it doesn't matter much if you think of the consequences. So I'd go with a shop you trust and their pricing. Worst case scenario is high price low quality. second worst case is low price low quality. I'd be optimizing for quality and not price. Lots of price difference has to do with location. In major metro areas this job will be more then sparse population areas. So it is really hard to compare prices across the country.
The lines should be pinned or welded regardless of tracking the car or not. The coolant lines can fail at anytime, meaning on the freeway, when you drive it hard through the canyons, when you rip a few gears around town......... The last thing you need is for it to fail under those environments, and usually when it fails its a full dump of ALL the coolant.
I don't see how anyone would spend 200K on a car and risk it slipping under its own coolant and crashing because its just a Cars & Coffee car.
Agreed. For me it's not a question of if. It's just a question of how.
Originally Posted by LμL
For me this job really comes down to finding a shop you trust the quality of the work. You want to do this job once. if it means 1k or 10k it doesn't matter much if you think of the consequences. So I'd go with a shop you trust and their pricing. Worst case scenario is high price low quality. second worst case is low price low quality. I'd be optimizing for quality and not price. Lots of price difference has to do with location. In major metro areas this job will be more then sparse population areas. So it is really hard to compare prices across the country.
You made some excellent points. My main point of reference for price is SW and they would swap out everything for the higher end of the spectrum price point. I'd actually be prepared to pay it but if I schedule now, my car wouldn't go in until late summer. That doesn't work for me and I'm not waiting six months to drive it. Given that I'm in Mexico, I will pay reasonable labor so the question is more about how far do I want to go with the repair. Can I get away with pinning without dropping the engine until I need a clutch or LSD and then do a big job or should I undertake that job now? Part of me thinks it would be ridiculous to do a deep dive now when the car has been pussyfooted for all of 11k miles.
The lines should be pinned or welded regardless of tracking the car or not. The coolant lines can fail at anytime, meaning on the freeway, when you drive it hard through the canyons, when you rip a few gears around town......... The last thing you need is for it to fail under those environments, and usually when it fails its a full dump of ALL the coolant.
I don't see how anyone would spend 200K on a car and risk it slipping under its own coolant and crashing because its just a Cars & Coffee car.
Agreed. My 997.1 TT left a puddle of coolant on the floor while parked. Less than 15k? miles. Car was still under warranty and pinning/welding wasn't common place at that time, so dealer just reglued the lines. My RS doesn't get driven as much, but I had the lines pinned and the elbows replaced with the Sharkwerks pieces.
I’d use the opportunity to drop the motor and do everything at once if you can. It also seems most shops will prefer to drop the motor. Better access to everything. If trying to DIY (which you’re not) then pinning in the car I think makes sense.
Since Sharkwerks is booking out till end of next summer, have you considered checking with BBI, GMG or Vollig Autowerks in San Diego. The latter my friends have used for suspension, but BBI and GMG has done coolant pinning.
Agreed. My 997.1 TT left a puddle of coolant on the floor while parked. Less than 15k? miles. Car was still under warranty and pinning/welding wasn't common place at that time, so dealer just reglued the lines. My RS doesn't get driven as much, but I had the lines pinned and the elbows replaced with the Sharkwerks pieces.
Lucky you found it when the car was parked. Thanks for chiming in. I don't care about the milage in mine. I just has to get done.
Originally Posted by Bxstr
I’d use the opportunity to drop the motor and do everything at once if you can. It also seems most shops will prefer to drop the motor. Better access to everything. If trying to DIY (which you’re not) then pinning in the car I think makes sense.
Since Sharkwerks is booking out till end of next summer, have you considered checking with BBI, GMG or Vollig Autowerks in San Diego. The latter my friends have used for suspension, but BBI and GMG has done coolant pinning.
It seems like dropping the motor is a must to do this right so that's very likely what's going to happen. The question is do I do LSD, clutch, motor mounts etc etc while I do this or do I wait for the next round? As far as shops, I was interested in having SW do it because I thought I might go all the way and do a 4.1 but apparently prices have gone up recently and that no longer makes sense for me. I'm going to look at options and get quotes here in Mexico ahead of my US trip. With such few of these cars here, I doubt anyone has experience but there are a lot of resources online for them to follow.
For me this job really comes down to finding a shop you trust the quality of the work. You want to do this job once. if it means 1k or 10k it doesn't matter much if you think of the consequences. So I'd go with a shop you trust and their pricing. Worst case scenario is high price low quality. second worst case is low price low quality. I'd be optimizing for quality and not price. Lots of price difference has to do with location. In major metro areas this job will be more then sparse population areas. So it is really hard to compare prices across the country.
This +100. It's not about cost, it's about finding a shop you can trust. Especially given how infrequent the repair and then finding a shop with previous/current know how. You end up paying a premium to fund on the job training.