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I have a 4 post Grandprix lift and an oil drain tank and I still get oil everywhere... stuff comes out fast. Being as close to the ground/pan as possible actually helps... and for gods sake don't try and hold onto the plug when when the last thread breaks loose it only makes things worse
I don't lift the car at all-if you do, more oil is going towards the front and it will drain less. The rectangular plastic pan I use is from Valmart and I've seen them at Home Depot, a clear plastic storage tray that slides under with just enough room to slide out later, without lifting the car.
Every time, it's 9.5 quarts for a perfect fill afterwards.
Once, I lifted the front with jacks and got more oil to come out, but it's ridiculous. I change every 12 months, no tracking, and barely put miles especially when it rains. Not a garage queen but not a daily driver either.
There are other threads discussing oil change, and the little expensive o-ring($10). I don't get a new one every change, but do inspect it-
Here's the plastic tray:
I use jackpot jack stands for a little more room and try to coordinate with other service tasks that also are easier with additional room since is it a bit of work getting the car in the air.
I have a 4 post Grandprix lift and an oil drain tank and I still get oil everywhere... stuff comes out fast. Being as close to the ground/pan as possible actually helps... and for gods sake don't try and hold onto the plug when when the last thread breaks loose it only makes things worse
I use Quickjacks. I use a large mortar mixing tub that I got from Home Depot to catch the oil. I lay and old metal window screen across it (I'm not sure if a fiberglass screen would hold up). The screen brakes up the stream of oil as it goes into the pan so there is absolutely no splash. It also catches the drain plugs. I dump the used oil into a 5 gallon bucket with a lid and take it back to the place I got the oil for recycling.
Lay a sheet of Visqueen (plastic sheeting) on the floor.
You need an additional receiving container to get the oil out of that rectangle pan. I used a 3 gallon (not the 5 gallon) pail from Home Depot's paint department.......
Similar process on my end:
News paper or cutdown Amazon boxes
Oil Extractor to siphon the used oil from the pan into body of extractor
Pour oil from extractor into 3 gallon oil recycle container
Take to auto parts store to dump in their used oil storage tank
I use Quickjacks. I use a large mortar mixing tub that I got from Home Depot to catch the oil. I lay and old metal window screen across it (I'm not sure if a fiberglass screen would hold up). The screen brakes up the stream of oil as it goes into the pan so there is absolutely no splash. It also catches the drain plugs. I dump the used oil into a 5 gallon bucket with a lid and take it back to the place I got the oil for recycling.
A word to anyone thinking of using this pan to do your oil change. "DON'T DO IT"
You will have oil all over the place. It's quite possibly the worst design for an oil pan ever.
The oil must first drop on that top floor then make its way to the drain hold and fall into the collection area below. The two problems with this is:
1. When the oil drain plug is pulled, the oil comes out so fast that it actually hits that top floor and make an additional jump right out of the pan.
2. Then top area fills up faster than it can transfer the fluid below which will cause the oil to overflow onto your garage floor.
That pan is a giant mess.
Sorry Brian, but you've had to run into this issue especially when dropping the tank oil.
Err, no. I’ll avoid your implication that I’m an idiot for using that oil pan.
The GT3 is the only car (or bike) that makes this pan a slight challenge. For the GT3, I grab two approximate 18”x18” pieces of cardboard and fold them a couple times to make a quasi funnel (think of a dam spillway) to direct the oil flow into the pan. Oil flows from the drain, hitting the cardboard at a wide angle (say 120 deg) then flows down into the pan. This eliminates the splashing. And I’ve never had an issue with the top of the pan filling up/not draining into the reservoir fast enough. And it’s easy to pour the used oil back into the empty jugs. Have used the pan for 50+ oil changes. YRMV
Oil change can easily be done without jacks or stands, but they make it much easier. I highly recommend the Stahlbus quick drain couplers. Now, I just hook up a quick connect hose and drain into whatever container I have around. If you track your car you can safety wire the cap on as well. The quick drain also doubles as an oil sample port.
Oil change can easily be done without jacks or stands, but they make it much easier. I highly recommend the Stahlbus quick drain couplers. Now, I just hook up a quick connect hose and drain into whatever container I have around. If you track your car you can safety wire the cap on as well. The quick drain also doubles as an oil sample port.
Do you use Stahlbus in both the sump and the oiltank?
Do you use Stahlbus in both the sump and the oiltank?
Same question - for the sump, I feel like the quick connect would be a huge win do to the velocity at which the oil exits. Looking it up in Stahlbus, they only show one size for the GT3/RS
Oil change can easily be done without jacks or stands, but they make it much easier. I highly recommend the Stahlbus quick drain couplers. Now, I just hook up a quick connect hose and drain into whatever container I have around. If you track your car you can safety wire the cap on as well. The quick drain also doubles as an oil sample port.
Do you use Stahlbus in both the sump and the oiltank?
I think I only have it on the main tank because the sump was oddly sized. Next time I'm at the shop I can take a look.
Originally Posted by Clifton
Same question - for the sump, I feel like the quick connect would be a huge win do to the velocity at which the oil exits. Looking it up in Stahlbus, they only show one size for the GT3/RS
It's slow enough that you can hook it up and stick it in a used oil container. Really nice. That's also a downside...if you're in a rush, you'll be waiting for a little bit.
Originally Posted by norwegen911
Exellent. Can you please link what to buy?
I don't have the exact PN on size, but I can look it up or somebody else can chime in. There are probably other places to buy from, but this seller on eBay has been good to me: https://www.ebay.com/str/kfebrakesystems
If you aren't planning on safety wiring the cap you don't need the race cap. I run these on my GT3 and on my SM, both see track time and I have 100% confidence in the product.
11-09-2022, 01:52 PM
