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You are much braver than I am. My car has lived since new in AZ and now TX, and likely experiences as warm, or warmer temperatures than you have in Sacramento.
I change oil/filter every 5,000 miles or 1.5 years with either Mobil1 0W-40 or 5W-40. I would be more concerned with the 30 in "10W- 30" being too low viscosity at high temperatures, rather than the 10 being a slightly higher viscosity at start-up. YMMV though.
You are much braver than I am. My car has lived since new in AZ and now TX, and likely experiences as warm, or warmer temperatures than you have in Sacramento.
I change oil/filter every 5,000 miles or 1.5 years with either Mobil1 0W-40 or 5W-40. I would be more concerned with the 30 in "10W- 30" being too low viscosity at high temperatures, rather than the 10 being a slightly higher viscosity at start-up. YMMV though.
Since I have never seen my oil temps above the mid-point on the gauge - EVER - I have no overheating concerns with the 30W. I also change my oil at 3000 miles, not 5,000 miles, so that will also insure that the protection is further enhance. If I were racing, or I was cold-starting in extremely cold environments, I would be more concerned. The 10w/30 is more than sufficient for my requirements. The oil analysis confirms what I said as accurate or we would have seen high particulate (wear) numbers, or a significant change in the oil viscosity - neither of which occurred. Don't allow the strive for OCD-level perfection, get in the way of common sense.`
Is anyone running LiquiMoly in their GT3 or RS? My last few samples tested by Blackstone showed almost non-existent levels of Molybdenum and viscosity slightly below the normal ranges. My oil change intervals are less than 2000 miles. All wear metals were fine, but it has me wondering why an oil with Moly in the name would have almost zero Moly in its additive package.
Is anyone running LiquiMoly in their GT3 or RS? My last few samples tested by Blackstone showed almost non-existent levels of Molybdenum and viscosity slightly below the normal ranges. My oil change intervals are less than 2000 miles. All wear metals were fine, but it has me wondering why an oil with Moly in the name would have almost zero Moly in its additive package.
Search virgin blackstone for that oil, that should give you clues. Are you buying from a reputable place? I know even oil these days can be fake if you source from the piece of s_it place like Amazon.
Search virgin blackstone for that oil, that should give you clues. Are you buying from a reputable place? I know even oil these days can be fake if you source from the piece of s_it place like Amazon.
Tried searching Blackstone but could only find link to virgin Mobil1 samples.
I always buy from FCP Euro so assuming it's authentic.
UPDATE: I emailed Liquimoly and received a response stating that some formulations of their oil may not contain any Molybdenum. Their additive packages are a trade secret and they could not disclose what they do contain. Thinking about just going back to M1 European Formula. I don't see any quantifiable benefit of using LM to justify the increased cost over M1.
Last edited by GlenGT3; 03-15-2022 at 01:25 PM.
Reason: update
I just bought Mobil 5W-50 like I do every year from Napa, on sale for $5.99
It's the only Porsche approved 5W-50 though I believe Castrol does make a 5W-50 and Motul in select regions-
The viscosity is perfect for the climatic conditions here. I will again caution against using 10W-30 viscosity. It is not a viscosity range approved or used in any Porsche engine as far as I know, maybe in the earlier air cooled motors decades ago, if so-
JB
I think LM is better than M1 for DD. Motul for the track. M1 cheaped out and reduced their zinc over the years.
Could you elaborate on that? Why do you think LM is better than M1? I'm looking for any empirical evidence to justify staying with it as I prefer not to switch oils and have been using LM for quite some time now.
Mobil 5W-50 Phosphorous 1000, Zink 1100
Mobil 0W-50 Phosphorous 1750, Zinc 1850 https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/m...ide-rev-31.pdf
I suppose if one doesn't care about catalytic converters, Mobil Racing 0W-50 is a good choice, but it's pretty expensive. $12.99 is the cheapest price I've seen, some places$17.99
Maybe mix one or 2 quarts of 0W-50 to the 5W-50 to get zddp levels up a bit if you think it matters
What are the comparable levels Motul offers?
Again, 10W-30 is not an approved viscosity-
JB
Could you elaborate on that? Why do you think LM is better than M1? I'm looking for any empirical evidence to justify staying with it as I prefer not to switch oils and have been using LM for quite some time now.
Primarily because of the removal of zinc from M1. I think you can also go down a never-ending rabbit hole trying to find an oil. If you've been using LM for a long time, I'd just stick with it. They make a quality oil.
A:
The anti-wear additive simply referred to as zinc by most car enthusiasts is actually short for Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates or ZDDP. Its primary role is to prevent metal-to-metal contact between engine parts by forming a protective film.
B:
during engine start-up where critical lubrication is insufficient between metal-to-metal lubrication points when using modern oils with reduced amounts of ZDDP/ZDTP.
A:
The anti-wear additive simply referred to as zinc by most car enthusiasts is actually short for Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates or ZDDP. Its primary role is to prevent metal-to-metal contact between engine parts by forming a protective film.
B:
during engine start-up where critical lubrication is insufficient between metal-to-metal lubrication points when using modern oils with reduced amounts of ZDDP/ZDTP.
My go to oil is Driven DT-50
Citing some data on virgin DT50 vs Motul 4100 (referenced simply as "Motul" below) posted by @Motul in this thread. I'm adding in the data points for 300V 5W40, which is what I run in all my cars. https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l#post15111807
Viscosity @ 100 C/212F: Purpose: Oil viscosity at operating temperature Motul: 19.7 cSt- a 50 grade viscosity DT50: 15.7 cSt- a 40 grade viscosity
300V: 13.46
Personally, I buy Motul by the case and run their fluids exclusively for brakes, transmission, diffs, oil, etc. 300V is my oil of choice for my GT3 and spec miata. I run LM for a DD oil in our Honda.
10-23-2021, 01:15 PM
