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Great report! You're running M1 0W40? For 2k miles, glad to see it stayed within spec as I know many have reports where it shears down quickly. Also, it's great to see that a longer interval (2 years) does not really have any issue.
Yeah, mainly because that is all the car has ever known and does not see a lot of miles. Also, AutoZone down the street makes it easy with $32 jugs. I think if I were tracking the car or it was getting aggressive use, I'd switch oil to Liqui Moly.
Originally Posted by 8Lug
Thank you for posting the update. Can you clarify the intervals? The most recent sample date is 9/2021 and the prior sample shows 11/2013, indicating an 8 year, 2311 mile interval. Were there more recent samples which are not shown on this report? Trying to reconcile the 672 mile interval shown on report and 2 year interval you mentioned.
While hard to believe and I know I'll be flamed, the low-low mileage (8 year 2311) is accurate. There were several oil changes along the way of course, but due to the low mileage I didn't feel it warranted oil analysis. The most recent oil change was a longer 2 year interval with only 672 miles. I was genuinely curious if 2 years was too long for the oil/filter and I also wanted more recent "blood work" analysis on the engine.
Last edited by Clifton; 10-11-2021 at 05:15 PM.
Reason: added more comments
Another case of high copper here. My 1st blackstone analysis was done after I installed brass quick drain plugs so I punned it on this upgrade. My second analysis a year later showed 1ppm less from the previous but still higher than the averages. I suspect there is something diff about our engines that has normal higher copper wear. I suspect our engines will outlast the rest of the car.. Happy motoring!
Yeah, mainly because that is all the car has ever known and does not see a lot of miles. Also, AutoZone down the street makes it easy with $32 jugs. I think if I were tracking the car or it was getting aggressive use, I'd switch oil to Liqui Moly.
So you're saying there were other oil changes after 2013, they were just not sampled by Blackstone, hence they don't appear on that report. Gotcha.
Another case of high copper here. My 1st blackstone analysis was done after I installed brass quick drain plugs so I punned it on this upgrade. My second analysis a year later showed 1ppm less from the previous but still higher than the averages. I suspect there is something diff about our engines that has normal higher copper wear. I suspect our engines will outlast the rest of the car.. Happy motoring!
Agree, I have been told by several mechanics that work on Mezger engines that it’s normal for our engines to have more metal PPMs than other engines. They all say these engines are nearly indestructible and to just enjoy driving them without worrying so much.
Nowhere in the Approved Oils list 10W-30 viscosity is listed as approved. It's 0W-40, 5W-40 and 5W-50 all over the world. So either there's a typo/mistake on your analysis or someone put 10W-30 in your car. I would drain it immediately.
A friend of mine had the M3 rod bearing meltdown. I believe at the time BMW started requiring a rare 10W-60 oil after repairing the engines and offering 100K warranty or something like that.
In the case of Porsche engines, none since 1984 take 10W-30 viscosity. Before '84, I don't know-
One last observation-the Porsche approved oils includes Castrol 0W-40, 5W-40 but no 5W-50. The only Porsche approved 5W-50 is Mobil, which I use since it's the best option for hot climates-
For me, 5W-50 is a good viscosity for the South FL inferno summer temperatures.
Mobil also makes the Racing 0W-50, not recommended for street use as they say. I suspect the zinc levels are too high for catalytic converters, and it's not considered long life-
As for 2 year change intervals, I wouldn't do it. Cars that are rarely driven or driven short distances without a full heat cycle and high oil temps to boil the combustion blowby and water accumulation risk corrosion and damage-more so in humid areas. Not so bad in dryer climates like the west coast.
The principle applies to aircraft engines, Continental and Lycoming typically where in this article the author observed rust forming. The oil change interval for piston engine aircraft is 4 months(!) https://generalaviationnews.com/2004...il-be-changed/
Also keep in mind they're low revving engines but most importantly aircraft oil is quite different from automotive oil, but rust and humidity plays a part on all piston engines. I have no idea what intervals are for turbines, might search out of curiosity. I believe it's a very long interval. A friend of mine that works with AA in maintenance has promised me a sample of turbine oil, I'd like to see what it's like. Mobil and Shell, Phillips make aircraft oil-
Mobil had a disastrous venture into trying synthetic aircraft oil in the late 1980s, and discontinued after a horrific accident that killed a family. Accumulating deposits caused engine damage and the plane crashed-
Surprising, since Exxon Mobil (Rockefeller's Standard Oil)is the pioneer in refining, development of oils, tetraethyl gasoline additive monopoly since the early 1920s, and synthetic oil from coal before and during WWII. They provided the technology to Germany in exchange for German synthetic rubber production despite publicly denying it later.
So as far as development and axccired data over the decades, they are the pioneers.
If the original poster did end up with 10W-30 in his engine somehow, I would immediately switch to 5W-40 or 5W-50, then send a sample which can be carefully collected with a cup after loosening the drain plug at the crank case. After loosening, just keep holding the drain plug and slightly tilting it without dropping, and you can get enough to send out, then top off the amount you drained-
As for 2 year change intervals, I wouldn't do it. Cars that are rarely driven or driven short distances without a full heat cycle and high oil temps to boil the combustion blowby and water accumulation risk corrosion and damage-more so in humid areas. Not so bad in dryer climates like the west coast.
In my case, the oil report clearly shows that a 2 year change interval is fine. Note that there is little fuel (lower than normal), ZERO water and the flashpoint, viscosity and TBN (oil oxidation) levels are well within or exceed normal/good ranges. There were no corrosion metals present nor key evidence of blowby (fuel) and water to support your theory of 2 years being too long. I'd would say how the car is used plus oil analysis is required to properly dial-in true change intervals. I've used this approach with track cars, daily drivers and weekend pleasure and I've been able to find the sweet spot for each car and its application. I found that the type of oil makes a difference too. The fact of the matter is, one approach to change intervals does not fit all applications.
Yes, 10W/30 Mobil1. Changed religiously every 3000 miles, along with the oem filter and O-rings. I use the 10w/30 because where I live, the temps are very warm, and I don't worry about the slightly heavier viscosity becoming a flow issue at my minimum temperatures - and the car is kept inside a nice temperature controlled garage. To tell you the truth, I'm not a big fan of 0/** wt oils since I have never lived in an area where temps are low enough to be a cold-start flow concern. For street driving, I feel the 10/30wt is sufficient. I am guessing Porsche recommends the 0wt because they know some customers drive these cars in very cold areas.
Last edited by HarmonyJim; 10-22-2021 at 03:56 PM.
10-11-2021, 05:03 PM
Happy motoring!
