Rusting Rotors After Wash
#31
Wow really? I thought this was an informational board of discussion, open to different topics. I've received tons of good info in many different areas from this board since 2007. Sorry it doesn't meet your standards. Perhaps I'd rather blow dry my rotors for a few minutes than spend 10k on PCCBs that are not stock on my car. Here's to "easy" solutions.
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BudgetPlan1 (08-24-2021)
#32
Rennlist Member
#33
Three Wheelin'
Why are they junk ? By calling a spade, a spade, you must have some first hand information. My vouching for Akebonos is based on personal experience ..... for everyday street use.
#34
they are not performance pads by any means. they are just economy pads i would put on a daily. it's fine for...the street i guess, but it's the typical pad you'd find at your local napa
#35
#36
Rennlist Member
Can I ask what part is rusting? I've never had this issue but it appears that everyone else has. These are OEM rotors.
#37
When the rotor face gets wet, it’ll start to rust. Very normal, but very annoying. Technically the cooling fins will rust too, but that doesn’t spew rust everywhere since the pad is not making contact with it.
#38
Rennlist Member
That's what everyone is talking about? The rust goes away after one or two brake applications.
I wash, pull into garage and then the next time I get in the car, sometimes the brakes are locked up for a moment but break loose and I'm on my way.
I wash, pull into garage and then the next time I get in the car, sometimes the brakes are locked up for a moment but break loose and I'm on my way.
#39
Rennlist Member
If after washing you leave the car in the garage, they can lock as you mentioned. After washing, drying the car and rotors/calipers with 250 mph blower, I then drive the car, because a cold engine needs a complete heat cycle to get the oil boiling and clear the moisture and combustion blow-by.
One should never just crank a car and shut it off after 5 minutes, especially if it's not a daily driver-
JB
One should never just crank a car and shut it off after 5 minutes, especially if it's not a daily driver-
JB
The following 2 users liked this post by JB911:
8Lug (08-25-2021),
RAudi Driver (01-22-2023)
#40
Rennlist Member
#41
Some of us like to keep a clean car that doesn't dump rust all over the wheels on the first drive after a wash. Obviously a couple of folks in here don't sympathize with the need for a detailing tip. That's fine, but please move along.
I'm running E88s with polished aluminum lips. I also live in NYC with limited access to a wash setup. A few simple tricks go a long way in solving what's become an annoyance for us clean freaks (:
I'm running E88s with polished aluminum lips. I also live in NYC with limited access to a wash setup. A few simple tricks go a long way in solving what's become an annoyance for us clean freaks (:
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zbbb0730 (08-26-2021)
#42
Rennlist Member
....
Last edited by bweSteve; 09-24-2021 at 11:55 PM.
#43
Rennlist Member
[QUOTE=bweSteve;17630135
I've got a brand new Master Blaster still in the box that I've never used. I've been using a regular leaf blower for years, so I don't understand how the Master Blaster could be that much better. Wife bought it. Yea I'll probably get in trouble if I don't use it, or sell it.
.[/QUOTE]
Break out that Master Blaster. Leaf blowers don't filter the air so something could be sucked up in the blower and throw at the car. Also the Master blaster is heated air. Filter and heated air in a powerful blast that can't be matched by a leaf blower. It's heaven.
I've got a brand new Master Blaster still in the box that I've never used. I've been using a regular leaf blower for years, so I don't understand how the Master Blaster could be that much better. Wife bought it. Yea I'll probably get in trouble if I don't use it, or sell it.
.[/QUOTE]
Break out that Master Blaster. Leaf blowers don't filter the air so something could be sucked up in the blower and throw at the car. Also the Master blaster is heated air. Filter and heated air in a powerful blast that can't be matched by a leaf blower. It's heaven.
#44
Rennlist Member
A reminder to check the condition of the o-rings on center lock caps-those o-rings can get old, and water getting in there will corrode the center pin. The o-rings are special high temp and an exact fit, almost $10 each so no Home Depot o-rings acceptable-take the caps off after a wash and make sure there's no moisture or water in there-
JB
JB
#45
Rennlist Member
Some of us like to keep a clean car that doesn't dump rust all over the wheels on the first drive after a wash. Obviously a couple of folks in here don't sympathize with the need for a detailing tip. That's fine, but please move along.
I'm running E88s with polished aluminum lips. I also live in NYC with limited access to a wash setup. A few simple tricks go a long way in solving what's become an annoyance for us clean freaks (:
I'm running E88s with polished aluminum lips. I also live in NYC with limited access to a wash setup. A few simple tricks go a long way in solving what's become an annoyance for us clean freaks (:
Scenario 1: I wash the car, dry the car and the wheels and immediately drive the car. There is no rust as the rotors were not allowed to sit and rust, hence no rust to be thrown around.
Scenario 2: I wash the car and then pull it into the garage. Dry the car and the wheels and the car sits until the next time I drive it. Next time comes around, I get in the car, brakes stick a wee bit and then release. I go about my day with dry rotors and hence no rust being thrown around.
JB, when I wash the car it's either after a drive and the car's coming back to it's hole in the garage or it's on its way out for a drive and is getting a little love before it hits the road. Either way, I'm always conscience of how many times the car will start in it's life without a proper warm-up.