DIY: Starter Replacement 997.1 GT3RS
#1
Thread Starter
Racer
DIY: Starter Replacement 997.1 GT3RS
Hi everyone,
I recently picked up a pumpkin 997.1 GT3RS. During PPI, they indicated that the starter was on the way out. Often takes 4-5 tries to start when warm, it just clicks. The clutch switch is working and battery is new so I did some research on rennlist. It looks like the starter is a common problem. I can't believe the price the dealer wants for the starter, $1600CDN+ Tax just for the part. I found out from another thread that the part is actually a Bosch SR0451N, so I ordered a brand new one on Amazon for $350CDN shipped. After I did the comparison, it is the exact same part without the Porsche logo and part number. I could not find any DIY online for this DIY there is only one for regular 997. So I thought I will compile something for everyone here, the car starts perfectly now after replacement problem solved.
The starter in our cars are actually under the right rear side of the car, just above the driveshaft.
Tools you will need:
Torx 20 (for underbelly screws)
10mm socket
13mm socket
15mm socket
3" extension
6" extension
rachet
jack + jackstands
1) disconnect the battery, Jack up the car on all 4 corners, remove the underbelly pan farthest to the rear and locate the starter. It is on the right rear side above the driveshaft
2) There are 2 bolts securing the starter, the bottom one is a 15mm not very difficult to remove, however the top bolt will require the use of a 6" extension, and alot of feeling around with your hand.
3) Loosen the 2 nuts on the starter, one is a 10mm other is 13mm (i forgot to write down), this will allow you to move the wires out of the way and helping you reach that top bolt.
4) After the wires are off, continue to remove the top bolt and bottom bolt.
5) Now you can slide the starter out (towards the back of the car), and tilt the gear part up and drop it down between the driveshaft and all the other parts.
6) Picture of the starter coming out.
7) There is just enough room to pull the starter out.
8) The assembly is the complete reverse, slide the starter in, secure the bottom bolt first then the top bolt. Reattach wires to the starter, then test start.
Comparison of OEM starter vs Bosch.
I recently picked up a pumpkin 997.1 GT3RS. During PPI, they indicated that the starter was on the way out. Often takes 4-5 tries to start when warm, it just clicks. The clutch switch is working and battery is new so I did some research on rennlist. It looks like the starter is a common problem. I can't believe the price the dealer wants for the starter, $1600CDN+ Tax just for the part. I found out from another thread that the part is actually a Bosch SR0451N, so I ordered a brand new one on Amazon for $350CDN shipped. After I did the comparison, it is the exact same part without the Porsche logo and part number. I could not find any DIY online for this DIY there is only one for regular 997. So I thought I will compile something for everyone here, the car starts perfectly now after replacement problem solved.
The starter in our cars are actually under the right rear side of the car, just above the driveshaft.
Tools you will need:
Torx 20 (for underbelly screws)
10mm socket
13mm socket
15mm socket
3" extension
6" extension
rachet
jack + jackstands
1) disconnect the battery, Jack up the car on all 4 corners, remove the underbelly pan farthest to the rear and locate the starter. It is on the right rear side above the driveshaft
2) There are 2 bolts securing the starter, the bottom one is a 15mm not very difficult to remove, however the top bolt will require the use of a 6" extension, and alot of feeling around with your hand.
3) Loosen the 2 nuts on the starter, one is a 10mm other is 13mm (i forgot to write down), this will allow you to move the wires out of the way and helping you reach that top bolt.
4) After the wires are off, continue to remove the top bolt and bottom bolt.
5) Now you can slide the starter out (towards the back of the car), and tilt the gear part up and drop it down between the driveshaft and all the other parts.
6) Picture of the starter coming out.
7) There is just enough room to pull the starter out.
8) The assembly is the complete reverse, slide the starter in, secure the bottom bolt first then the top bolt. Reattach wires to the starter, then test start.
Comparison of OEM starter vs Bosch.
Last edited by Neb; 10-28-2019 at 09:44 AM.
The following 4 users liked this post by Neb:
#3
Rennlist Member
One has stickers and one doesn't which clearly means they aren't the same.
Most excellent write up. Love the crystal clear pictures. Mods, can we make this a sticky.
Neb, now that the car starts, post up a picture of this beast.
Most excellent write up. Love the crystal clear pictures. Mods, can we make this a sticky.
Neb, now that the car starts, post up a picture of this beast.
#4
Best R&R Procedure for the Starter. Great write-up and photos. Thanks for info comparing with OEM.
There are older threads on the subject, but Neb covers everything very well.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...t-starter.html
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...er_install.htm
BOSCH - https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...iption=starter $396.50 (available for less elsewhere...)
PORSCHE - https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...iption=starter $1,438.75
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ter-click.html
There are older threads on the subject, but Neb covers everything very well.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...t-starter.html
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...er_install.htm
BOSCH - https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...iption=starter $396.50 (available for less elsewhere...)
PORSCHE - https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...iption=starter $1,438.75
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ter-click.html
The following users liked this post:
Neb (10-28-2019)
#5
Great DIY, thanks for sharing. Also nice flooring, also am a Swisstrax person.
The following users liked this post:
D1ESEL (10-30-2019)
#7
Rennlist Member
I posted a thread on the starter click issue. In my case, I cleaned and tightened all the connectors on the starter, grounds, and the positive cable connector in the firewall section next to the battery. Starter was perfectly fine-the connections, nuts that hold the cables were the issue. It's been working since, quite a long time. The cable from the solenoid to starter motor was either not tight enough, or dirty. Strange how things can look ok but a bad contact is a bad contact until you clean it. Sometimes copper has to be cleaned with a wire brush or file-
One observation-on the 997.2, as far as I recall, the bolts that hold the starter in place are 11mm
Nice DIY, I'm ready to replace mine the day it really goes-
One observation-on the 997.2, as far as I recall, the bolts that hold the starter in place are 11mm
Nice DIY, I'm ready to replace mine the day it really goes-
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#8
Great looking Pumpkin. My favorite my 997.1 spec.
#9
Rennlist Member
Just in time for Halloween
nice work
nice work
#11
Rennlist Member
Terrific write up, thank you!
#13
Very nice write up!
#15
Rennlist Member
My 997.2 has the 11mm external torx, and I'm pretty scared of messing it up-I have 2 short extensions and a deep 11mm torx socket but it's cramped down there, I don't have a lift
I have the rear on ramps and will probably jack the front wheels to help a bit more, but I'm in a real pickle here.
I was removing the 13mm nut that holds the main cables, but the post broke off the solenoid section and it really complicates things. Even in the worst case scenario, I don't think I could push start the car to go somewhere to get on a lift. The post/bolt that the main cables connect to broke clean off.
My idea is to loosen the top bolt since it would seem to make sense, then the lower one which is easier to reach and see. The top one, I connected with two short extensions but I'm afraid that if it skips it could damage the 11mm torx and then I'll be in even more trouble!
I have a Craftsman air ratchet but I think I'll buy something like a cordless Milwaukee M12 Fuel impact wrench- would it have enough torque to loosen it? I'll also see if a regular ratchet with a short pipe for leverage might be a good idea.
I also have a swivel extension, which might help-I want to make sure the 11mm socket is flush while loosening and to keep the socket flush and flat against the bolt seems difficult since it's so tight and cramped without a lift-
Any input appreciated, thanks
JB
I have the rear on ramps and will probably jack the front wheels to help a bit more, but I'm in a real pickle here.
I was removing the 13mm nut that holds the main cables, but the post broke off the solenoid section and it really complicates things. Even in the worst case scenario, I don't think I could push start the car to go somewhere to get on a lift. The post/bolt that the main cables connect to broke clean off.
My idea is to loosen the top bolt since it would seem to make sense, then the lower one which is easier to reach and see. The top one, I connected with two short extensions but I'm afraid that if it skips it could damage the 11mm torx and then I'll be in even more trouble!
I have a Craftsman air ratchet but I think I'll buy something like a cordless Milwaukee M12 Fuel impact wrench- would it have enough torque to loosen it? I'll also see if a regular ratchet with a short pipe for leverage might be a good idea.
I also have a swivel extension, which might help-I want to make sure the 11mm socket is flush while loosening and to keep the socket flush and flat against the bolt seems difficult since it's so tight and cramped without a lift-
Any input appreciated, thanks
JB
Last edited by JB911; 11-14-2022 at 01:00 AM.