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Help me buy a 911! Need 1st-timer advice on which model

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Old 06-05-2017, 12:33 PM
  #16  
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2S or 4S. A clean GTS will likely be out of your price range and you may want to keep $5k or so to dump into the suspension, exhaust, etc.

And yes, IMO, sport seats are a must...

Old 06-05-2017, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ChristyT

Questions:

1) what model? My price range is up to $70k, although I certainly don't need to spend that much. It is my understanding that there is a base model, a C2S, a C4S, and then a GTS? I see the differences in power: what is the difference on the road? Are any of the models destined to "hold value" more than others? I see that thrown around here quite often, especially when people are contemplating buying an "S" car vs the "Base", although looking at MSRP vs used prices, it doesn't seem to be the case. Most everything seems to be selling at around 50-55% of MSRP with, say, 30,000 miles.

Too many differences to discuss between all the models.
You really need to get out and test drive the different cars. Most people would say that the C2S is plenty enough to put a smile on your face while others care more about the wider hips and therefore go for the C4S. With your budget, you should have no issues getting into any of these models.


2) Assuming the above is true, that each model more or less costs the same in depreciation, which provides the most bang for the buck? Is the "S" worth $10k more than the "base"? The GTS worth $15k more than that? I just want a fun car, and have never had "badge envy". We ladies tend not to use engine size as a proxy for other measurements With that said, if a certain model is the "sweet spot" for daily drivability (useful power), then I would like to know.

The S is worth the extra $ for more HP, better brakes and stiffer suspension, but if you prefer a subtle ride and are trying to daily the car through a rough down town area, I would go for the softer base model.

3) mileage: a good friend of mine is dating a longtime Porsche mechanic who specializes on air-cooled cars. Speaking with him, he said "buy a one or 2 owner car that has been driven. Do not fall into that trap that lower mileage is always better. Not true on these cars. Find something that has a good 3,000-4,000 miles/year on the clock, and has been maintained. The decade-old cars that have 10,000 miles a year are not only more expensive, but will give you 5x the problems going forward. Everything is designed to be taken to operating temperatures regularly on these cars; the problem cars are the garage queens". This makes a lot of sense; is it still true for this generation? I want' the car to be reliable: it is going to see 15,000 miles a year.

This is true with the 911. I would question though,
if you are looking for a daily vehicle to put miles on, why not go for an older 997.1? The 997.2 has not reached its full depreciating potential and if you buy one now and put miles on it, you will lose a lot of money.


4) some cars have "sport seats" with big bolsters. Coming out of an M3 with side adaptive bolsters, is this a "must have"? Or are the stock 997 seats as good as the M3 seats? I don't see many cars with that option.

Sport Seats are really good but after a long commute, the standard seats are more comfortable.

5) best time of year to buy is later in the year, I presume? Are 911's sold year round, or more of a summertime car? People daily drive M3's, but it always seemed that they were cheaper in the fall and winter.

The same is true for 911s
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Old 06-05-2017, 05:35 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ChristyT

Questions:

1) what model? My price range is up to $70k, although I certainly don't need to spend that much. It is my understanding that there is a base model, a C2S, a C4S, and then a GTS? I see the differences in power: what is the difference on the road? Are any of the models destined to "hold value" more than others? I see that thrown around here quite often, especially when people are contemplating buying an "S" car vs the "Base", although looking at MSRP vs used prices, it doesn't seem to be the case. Most everything seems to be selling at around 50-55% of MSRP with, say, 30,000 miles.

You should most definitely look into a 997.2 S model. I might also recommend the 2S RWD rather than the 4S AWD as it will be a lighter and more nimble driving experience. The engine on the 997.2s are much more reliable and have more power than the previous generations, and other than GT cars it is what myself (any many others) would call the last of the best driver's car 911s. A lot of this has to do with the driver's connection of the hydraulic steering that you lose in the 991 for electric steering, and as you mentioned it feels smaller and more engaging. If you can pick up a GTS in your price range, they are rather rare so will hold value better than any S, and along with various other tweaks come with an X51 powerkit (revised top end and intake design) for a nice little bump on performance. The C4S are more rare than a C2S so would likely hold better value from that stand point

2) Assuming the above is true, that each model more or less costs the same in depreciation, which provides the most bang for the buck? Is the "S" worth $10k more than the "base"? The GTS worth $15k more than that? I just want a fun car, and have never had "badge envy". We ladies tend not to use engine size as a proxy for other measurements With that said, if a certain model is the "sweet spot" for daily drivability (useful power), then I would like to know.

Yes the S is worth more than the Base, the performance and overall experience of the larger engine is quite impressive. Personally I don't believe a GTS is worth the extra $15k over a nicely optioned S model. You can take that extra $15k, put it into the car and put it a nice bit beyond that of a GTS in regards to handling and performance.

3) mileage: a good friend of mine is dating a longtime Porsche mechanic who specializes on air-cooled cars. Speaking with him, he said "buy a one or 2 owner car that has been driven. Do not fall into that trap that lower mileage is always better. Not true on these cars. Find something that has a good 3,000-4,000 miles/year on the clock, and has been maintained. The decade-old cars that have 10,000 miles a year are not only more expensive, but will give you 5x the problems going forward. Everything is designed to be taken to operating temperatures regularly on these cars; the problem cars are the garage queens". This makes a lot of sense; is it still true for this generation? I want' the car to be reliable: it is going to see 15,000 miles a year.

This is actually quite accurate, but much more prevalent on the earlier 996/997.1 cars that had IMS bearing and bore scoring issues. The 997.2S models are night and day better in regards to reliability, so lower mileage shouldn't scare you off like it would on the earlier water-cooled 911s.


4) some cars have "sport seats" with big bolsters. Coming out of an M3 with side adaptive bolsters, is this a "must have"? Or are the stock 997 seats as good as the M3 seats? I don't see many cars with that option.

Hard to compare that one as I haven't gone back to back in the M3 seats and a 997. However, I've always found the 911 seats to be quite impressive regardless of model, albeit the sport seats are more up my alley as i'm always after more support.

5) best time of year to buy is later in the year, I presume? Are 911's sold year round, or more of a summertime car? People daily drive M3's, but it always seemed that they were cheaper in the fall and winter.

Anything else I should know? I plan on getting a good PPI, DME report, all of that. I also have looked at exhaust options. My M3 had an Akrapovic! I hope to recreate that sound on this car.


All depends on the area in the country. You can find them year round in CA, FL, TX, etc. technically you can find them year round anywhere, but the car sales market is what it is and you can't quite sway the tendency of the sales market to fluctuate on sports cars during the driving season versus winter months.

Definitely get a PPI done by a local, reputable Porsche Specialist, and have them check the DME for overrevs. As for exhaust, I've got you covered with whatever you may end up with haha. If you pick up an S with the factory PSE (valved Porsche Sports Exhaust), that's a bonus as they sound superb with just a center muffler delete and headers, and offer the ability for maintain a mild to wild exhaust note at the push of a button.
See comments above. Best of luck with picking up the 911 you are looking for! If/when it comes time to tweak it a bit with suspension, brakes, exhaust, wheels, etc be sure to drop me a line it would be great to work with you!
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Old 06-06-2017, 02:24 PM
  #19  
ChristyT
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Originally Posted by captainbaker
Doug is historically correct. Turbos have consistently been relatively reliable 911's.

A decent Turbo 2009+ will run you at least $80K.

The 'S' is worth it because of more HP, suspension, brakes. Kind of how you wanted the M3 over the base 3 series to make up for ....'other measurements'.

A $70k budget will get you a nice C4S (widebody, with more HP, bigger brakes , suspension etc.) with money left over.
That's my next question: C2S vs C4S. 1.5 inches wider on the C4s? Heavier though and not as fun to drive? I start looking for a full leather C4S, manual, adaptive sport seats, LSD, Sport Chrono in a good color: I may be looking for awhile! How important are sport seats and LSD for a daily driver? I have learned never to let the perfect be the enemy of the very good, and those 2 items are tough to find in many cars. I also see more C2S models for sale than C4S. I do like the wider stance of the 4, but I am not 100% sure that is a deal breaker.

As far as the M3 comparison, that isn't entirely correct. I owned a 335is prior to the M3 (my 4th BMW) The 335is was almost as quick as the M3: power and torque were more potent as they came on at much lower RPM; if I remember correctly, the tuned N54 engine for real world usability is every bit as fast as the S65.

What made the M3 special upon upgrading was the rest of the car: the suspension, the subframe, axles; everything else that made the M3 more than simply a 335i with a larger engine. If you doubt this: go drive a 1M and a 135i back to back. Not much of a difference in the engine, but damn, having the M3 parts installed makes all the difference in the world.

It is my understanding that with the 911, the "base" model is basically the Porsche equivalent of an M3 out of the box. There are no shortcuts, and the major components aside from engine are all shared with any Carrera variant. Spend more, and it is like taking an M3 and adding more power, an LSD, better brakes and whatnot, which is something BMW doesn't really offer in the same manner (the Comp pkg really doesn't compare). Having driven a couple of "base" 911's, I can tell you there is nothing basic about them; they already beat an M3 out of the box in terms of handling, steering feel, chassis stiffness.
Old 06-06-2017, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by frankyluis23
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Thanks, that helps. I was shying away from a 997.1 primarily due to the old-school electronics. I suppose there is always the aftermarket route. I also like the updated look of the 997.2 LED lights. It is worth looking into, however. Similar reliability between both? I know all about the IMS issue, and am not worried about that on most of these cars.

Good point on the suspension. I will be in Dallas in the next 6 months, and the roads can be pretty brutal. Then again, the M3 lives in sport M mode unless it is snowing. I like the responsiveness.

I suppose at this time, it is really looking into whether I would like to prioritize traction and wider hips, vs the more pure RWD 2S feel. All of these cars look great, but I agree, the 4/4S looks more special. Do I need extra traction? Probably not, I just drive conservatively in snow, with winter tires, and moving to Dallas will reduce the need for snow wheels at any rate. I may switch to winter all-seasons however just to be a bit safer.
Old 06-06-2017, 10:02 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ChristyT
That's my next question: C2S vs C4S. 1.5 inches wider on the C4s? Heavier though and not as fun to drive? I start looking for a full leather C4S, manual, adaptive sport seats, LSD, Sport Chrono in a good color: I may be looking for awhile! How important are sport seats and LSD for a daily driver? I have learned never to let the perfect be the enemy of the very good, and those 2 items are tough to find in many cars. I also see more C2S models for sale than C4S. I do like the wider stance of the 4, but I am not 100% sure that is a deal breaker.
The good news is an LSD is standard with AWD Carreras. See page 28 of the attached sales manual.

As long as long as you don't want the dash stopwatch, Sport Chrono and Sport Chrono Plus can be retrofitted by the dealer (I think).

Also, Karl Glynn compiled a list of professional reviews. Should be a sticky.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l-reviews.html
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:47 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ChristyT
That's my next question: C2S vs C4S. 1.5 inches wider on the C4s? Heavier though and not as fun to drive? I start looking for a full leather C4S, manual, adaptive sport seats, LSD, Sport Chrono in a good color: I may be looking for awhile! How important are sport seats and LSD for a daily driver? I have learned never to let the perfect be the enemy of the very good, and those 2 items are tough to find in many cars. I also see more C2S models for sale than C4S. I do like the wider stance of the 4, but I am not 100% sure that is a deal breaker.

As far as the M3 comparison, that isn't entirely correct. I owned a 335is prior to the M3 (my 4th BMW) The 335is was almost as quick as the M3: power and torque were more potent as they came on at much lower RPM; if I remember correctly, the tuned N54 engine for real world usability is every bit as fast as the S65.

What made the M3 special upon upgrading was the rest of the car: the suspension, the subframe, axles; everything else that made the M3 more than simply a 335i with a larger engine. If you doubt this: go drive a 1M and a 135i back to back. Not much of a difference in the engine, but damn, having the M3 parts installed makes all the difference in the world.

It is my understanding that with the 911, the "base" model is basically the Porsche equivalent of an M3 out of the box. There are no shortcuts, and the major components aside from engine are all shared with any Carrera variant. Spend more, and it is like taking an M3 and adding more power, an LSD, better brakes and whatnot, which is something BMW doesn't really offer in the same manner (the Comp pkg really doesn't compare). Having driven a couple of "base" 911's, I can tell you there is nothing basic about them; they already beat an M3 out of the box in terms of handling, steering feel, chassis stiffness.

In a nutshell, the 4S fills the gap between the C2 and Turbo/Gt2/Gt3 in the 911 line up. It has always been a popular model for many reasons: 4WD, Turbo Width, LSD standard, PASM, Turbo brakes-wheels-suspension. In the 997 world there are narrow body cars and wide body cars (the 4S and Turbo are examples wide body cars).

I was looking for a C2S MT, in a specific color combo. When a 4s fell into my lap, I jumped on it. I drove a C2S and it was fun. There was no noticeable difference in weight, but you can feel the AWD doing its job while accelerating in a turn for sure. In the end.....the rear end is stunning. I put a OEM Turbo Tail on her and it really makes the car.

Finding a clean 4S with the options you want requires patience. But I wouldnt let a missing accessory keep me from an otherwise excellent car. Sporst seats can always be added. The LSD is a personal choice.

BMW's are nice, but Im not a sedan guy. The 997 will retain its value way better than say an M6 of the same year. Your in good company, lots of BMW owners migrate over to Porsche.
Old 06-06-2017, 10:49 PM
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Whoops. I attached the Sales manual for the 2/2S. Here's the 4/4S. Had to divide it into 2 files to get around upload limits.

Last edited by Hula; 06-06-2017 at 11:00 PM. Reason: typo
Old 06-07-2017, 10:16 AM
  #24  
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Thanks for those 3 files Hula.

Page 28 of the C4 manual does indeed state:

A mechanically locking rear differential with asymmetrical lock factor is fitted as standard across the all-wheel-drive model range.



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