Very interesting factors- thank you for the replies. I've always been conscious about maximizing clutch life, therefore avoid slipping the clutch whenever I can which may be a contributing factor that requires me to be more focused/less lazy than I sometimes am on my way back from work.

I don't have sport chrono (yet ) so switching back and forth isn't the issue.

Fluid was changed last summer during CPO so I think it's not the issue.

I've always though throttle response was fine, but the car lives in a 91 octane state after moving from a 93 octane state last July and 3,000 miles- I'd hope that the CPU has learned and adjusted for this by now. But what the heck, the E-Gas calibration procedure couldn't hurt

I'm a diehard Shell gas user, but who knows what the PO used... I might throw some Techron in before the next oil change - I wonder if it messes with the oil analysis? - I doubt it, shouldn't have any impact on dissolved metals.

 

yepper.....this made shareable to the mere mortals

 

If it stalls often from stop it may actually indicate an issue. To test it is simple -stop on a side street, depress clutch, move foot away from gas and release clutch smoothly. If intake and all sensors are working correctly your car will not stall and will get going on a 1st gear. If it stalls - it means something is off. Stalls do add stress on components but it is not fatal, I would be more concerned on why it happens. For me it was a semi-dead o2 sensor on a left bank. It was enough somehow to offset proper balance.

 

Read this thread,
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...matically.html
Have Fun!

 

See if the button switch at the top of the clutch pedal is taped closed or junpered. This is the clutch delay switch and its purpose is to adjust the timing as the clutch is being released to avoid stalling the motor. A number of us don't like what this switch does when in use so we've bypassed it (me included), but doing so does increase the risk of stalling the car on occasion.

 

Definitely check the clutch switch and the other one as well. Mine went out and I felt like I was learning how to drive a manual again. Seemed like the revs would go from 1200 to 600 when starting out in first, causing me to stall multiple times. Replaced and it is back to normal now.

 

I stalled mine once backing in reverse.
I agree, it sounded like the engine self destructed.
I was afraid to restart it.
I went and got a haircut and calmed myself down.
Went back to the car and with great trepidation tried to start it.
Started up fine and drove with no ill effects.... other than my bruised ego.

 

These cars sound worse than most other cars when stalled. But I really don't think a lot of damage is done; probably more damage is done when starting the car after it's been sitting longer than 12-24 hours due to lubrication. And we all do that WAY more frequently than stalling the car.

In short, I wouldn't ever worry about stalling a car unless it happens every time you drive it

 

I live/drive in CA and both of my cars have lived on 91 octane gasoline for years. The DME adjusts/compensates for any differences in fuel (or with air pressure, air temperature, and other things) constantly so switching from possibly what the previous owner used to Shell even 91 octane Shell that's not a problem.

It doesn't take much slippage to get the car moving but it does take some. Obviously if you don't have enough slippage the engine can stall.

You have to be sure that when the fluid was changed that both brake hydraulic system and the clutch hydraulic system were flushed and bled.

I was a diehard Shell gasoline user too until the very handy and price competitive Shell station raised its prices by 10 cents (or more) a gallon. The Chevron station between my house and the Shell station then had 10 cents (or more) cheaper gasoline then and I became a diehard Chevron gasoline user.

Based on how the engine perked up I will continue to use Chevron pretty much all the time.

Techron I believe has stuff that basically in an analysis would just show up as hydrocarbons and shouldn't materially affect the oil analysis results.

The concern about Techron is it is designed to not burn to transistion from a liquid to a vapor and back again in the combustion chamber to help remove deposits. The result is the use of this can increase oil contamination and the last thing these engines need is more contamination of their oil.

I do not worry about any increase in contamination from using Chevron all the time and I really don't worry about it after using a bottle or two of Techron (the very rare times I do use Techron from a bottle) but I do use it before an oil change so the oil gets changed rather soon afterwards. Just a habit on my part of playing it "safe" in order to give the engine every chance to continue to deliver a long and trouble free service life.

 

Not sure if the OP has a .1 or a .2, but there are some differences relative to the information presented in this thread, so even if not useful to him might be to someone else reading it. Regarding, clutch bleeding - this is only necessary on a .1 - the .2 recirculates the clutch fluid all the time and isn't closed off.

You may not be able to defeat the clutch switch on a .2 without it throwing a code. Some 987.2 and 997.2 owners have reported this issue.

 

Dude- you're a lifesaver (or at least a headache saver)! I have a .2

Really interesting to learn of all the more obscure differences in .1 and .2

 

It's very helpful to put the year and model in your posts, especially those with tech questions or issues.

 

the only time I stall mine is when I have the music cranked up loud and can't hear the engine. I hate that!