Best Impact driver / Cordless drill for tire swaps ?
12-12-2016, 04:40 PM
#16
1 cc, start your bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. As for over torquing, I've learned when to let off the trigger to just make sure the lugs are snug and not too tight. Although, pneumatic ones usually have adjustments to aid in setting max torque.
As H-P stated above, whatever you buy, pay attention to the breakaway specs. Some tools are specked somewhat lower in ccw than in cw...
Good luck,
Gary
As H-P stated above, whatever you buy, pay attention to the breakaway specs. Some tools are specked somewhat lower in ccw than in cw...
Good luck,
Gary
12-12-2016, 04:41 PM
#17
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After using several lesser models (Makita and Craftsman brands), I switched to a Milwaukee 2663-22 18-Volt M18 a couple years ago.
It's been a workhorse of an impact driver!
It's been a workhorse of an impact driver!
12-12-2016, 04:43 PM
#19
There was a corded version sold on Amazon before where you dial in the torque you want and go to town. I bought it, it sort of worked then it got stolen.
For the past 6-7 years I've been using the C3 1/2in cordless impact Craftsman. It's rated at 300ft lbs and it has been an absolute work horse for me. I've probably done 60-70 wheel changes with it and it keeps on ticking. I invested in C3 batteries a couple years ago and have some other tools that use them. I use it to spin on the lug bolts and I think it has pretty good control although I don't have any experience with other manufacturers. Best of all, I think I paid $100 with Li battery on some sale.
For the past 6-7 years I've been using the C3 1/2in cordless impact Craftsman. It's rated at 300ft lbs and it has been an absolute work horse for me. I've probably done 60-70 wheel changes with it and it keeps on ticking. I invested in C3 batteries a couple years ago and have some other tools that use them. I use it to spin on the lug bolts and I think it has pretty good control although I don't have any experience with other manufacturers. Best of all, I think I paid $100 with Li battery on some sale.
$100 Sounds like a solid deal.
12-12-2016, 04:47 PM
#20
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very interesting video.
It makes me think... How would I make sure that I don't over-torque or cross thread when putting the bolts back on ? particularly with such powerful tools?
Of course I would hand torque with a torque wrench at the end, but I'd want to be able to use the drill/driver to screw on the bolt to get it to say 85 lbs/ft and do the last few pounds by hand / torque wrench.
Is there a driver that has a torque setting built in to avoid over tightening for this purpose ?
It makes me think... How would I make sure that I don't over-torque or cross thread when putting the bolts back on ? particularly with such powerful tools?
Of course I would hand torque with a torque wrench at the end, but I'd want to be able to use the drill/driver to screw on the bolt to get it to say 85 lbs/ft and do the last few pounds by hand / torque wrench.
Is there a driver that has a torque setting built in to avoid over tightening for this purpose ?
There is no tightening torque adjustment.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
12-12-2016, 05:37 PM
#22
12-12-2016, 05:43 PM
#23
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12-12-2016, 05:47 PM
#25
i have a set of several different tourqe ratings. They just click like a tourqe wrench. Good insurance when using an impact wrench. I have a corded DeWalt that I purchased second hand and it's a beast.
12-12-2016, 06:24 PM
#26
Registered User
You can get a new reconditioned 18v Nicad dewalt for $120 on eBay. Basically new. That's for the tool, and assumes you have the battery and charger. Works great.
Impact drills don't have enough power. I have a rigid brand, and dewalt. 20v, just not strong enough... Some come off, some don't.
Get a dedicated impact wrench...
Impact drills don't have enough power. I have a rigid brand, and dewalt. 20v, just not strong enough... Some come off, some don't.
Get a dedicated impact wrench...
12-12-2016, 06:50 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
You can get a new reconditioned 18v Nicad dewalt for $120 on eBay. Basically new. That's for the tool, and assumes you have the battery and charger. Works great.
Impact drills don't have enough power. I have a rigid brand, and dewalt. 20v, just not strong enough... Some come off, some don't.
Get a dedicated impact wrench...
Impact drills don't have enough power. I have a rigid brand, and dewalt. 20v, just not strong enough... Some come off, some don't.
Get a dedicated impact wrench...
12-12-2016, 07:12 PM
#28
Registered User
Just want to highlight his point about wrench vs drill. Be sure you're getting an impact wrench and not an impact drill. 120 ft/lbs is going to be too much for an impact drill after a few uses on a full battery.. even 20V. the Dewavlt impact wrench will spin them on/off until it's basically dead. So, good difference to note by bpu699 here. Also, he's from Racine so he's an expert at stealing wheels and probably knows his stuff.
Interestingly, not a lot of car theft in Racine... No one owns anything worth stealing
That's why we moved a bit to Caledonia... Loved Chicago... But getting shot and all seemed risky
12-12-2016, 08:35 PM
#29
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Torque sticks mentioned above is a good idea. There are hot / cold opinions on these and IMO most of the negative comments comes from people who use them to set the final torque. They are not designed to be that accurate, just get you in the general ballpark so you can set final torque with a proper wrench once the car is lowered.
The DeWalt impact used on the racing team I help with could go 4-5 clicks once tight and be around 50ft-lbs. So that is how we operated, "click click click click" move onto the next bolt. Drop the car, torque the bolts.
Some do have an adjustment settings, I have yet to use one like that. Need to do some testing and see how tight your particular wrench will be after a click or two. I've used three different battery powered wrenches and all of them could go 2-4 clicks and be around 50-60ft-lbs.
I have not used any of the really powerful ones in that last video though, not sure how tight they would be on first "click".
I know some shops have a standing rule of no impact on installation. Hand tighten, lower the car just enough so the wheels will not turn and torque tight. Some of the shop owners I've known have such a rule so a customer never see their wheels being "burped" on like Sears would do, and to prevent a mechanic from accidentally over torquing and damaging something. Even though most air wrenches can be turned way down to a point where they will never over torque a lug nut. Forget the wrench is on 5 with a high capacity system, you can wreck something in a hurry.
12-12-2016, 08:40 PM
#30
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Best way I know to explain them is picture a torsion bar. They are different strengths to twist and absorb every "hit" from the anvil.
Makes the most sense when you see the inner workings of an impact wrench (I've never used one of these adaptors, kind of interesting).
In between "hits" the torque sticks relax ready to absorb the next impact without going over their rated torque.
This principle is why using an extension with an impact wrench reduces their power.
Makes the most sense when you see the inner workings of an impact wrench (I've never used one of these adaptors, kind of interesting).
In between "hits" the torque sticks relax ready to absorb the next impact without going over their rated torque.
This principle is why using an extension with an impact wrench reduces their power.