Why do I keep mangling the oil drain plug?
#32
Rennlist Member
Convert to a drain plug that is a standard 6 point and not the stupid hex.
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/porsche.php
With either plug type... just snug. If it doesn't leak, your good.
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/porsche.php
With either plug type... just snug. If it doesn't leak, your good.
#33
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Convert to a drain plug that is a standard 6 point and not the stupid hex.
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/porsche.php
With either plug type... just snug. If it doesn't leak, your good.
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/porsche.php
With either plug type... just snug. If it doesn't leak, your good.
It felt like 19 ft-lbs for this plug was way more than "snug", but this number must've been spec'd for a reason. I realize it's not a crucial structural part, but thought maybe heat & vibration might do something that someone knows about, and I didn't want to make assumptions.
#34
Rennlist Member
Convert to a drain plug that is a standard 6 point and not the stupid hex.
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/porsche.php
With either plug type... just snug. If it doesn't leak, your good.
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/porsche.php
With either plug type... just snug. If it doesn't leak, your good.
#35
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
M18x1.5 is the drain plug spec. BTW, this also fits the manual gearbox drain plug if you want to buy 2 to protect your transmission from loose ferrous particles too. Gives you an excuse to renew your gear oil with the excellent Mobil 1 PTX that eliminates that first gear engagement resistance when at a stop.
I have the LN magnetic plugs in both.
What he means by hex on this plug is that it has an exteral hex to use a regular socket. The others that keep getting messed up have an internal hex, like a large Allen key.
I have the LN magnetic plugs in both.
What he means by hex on this plug is that it has an exteral hex to use a regular socket. The others that keep getting messed up have an internal hex, like a large Allen key.
#36
The only drain plug I've ever mangled is while using a torque wrench. A torque wrench is supposed to give you a specific torque setting obviously but it removes any "feel" you have with your hand. And, many are inaccurate. I prefer a small ratchet (or box wrench depending on plug). If you pay attention you can actually feel the plug engage the crush washer then snug up to the pan. Even a firm hand will rarely get beyond 25ft/lb torque using a small ratchet (or box wrench). I suspect your problem is an inaccurate torque wrench or a bad bit.
#38
Intermediate
Thread Starter
M18x1.5 is the drain plug spec. BTW, this also fits the manual gearbox drain plug if you want to buy 2 to protect your transmission from loose ferrous particles too. Gives you an excuse to renew your gear oil with the excellent Mobil 1 PTX that eliminates that first gear engagement resistance when at a stop.
I have the LN magnetic plugs in both.
What he means by hex on this plug is that it has an exteral hex to use a regular socket. The others that keep getting messed up have an internal hex, like a large Allen key.
I have the LN magnetic plugs in both.
What he means by hex on this plug is that it has an exteral hex to use a regular socket. The others that keep getting messed up have an internal hex, like a large Allen key.
#39
Intermediate
Thread Starter
M18x1.5 is the drain plug spec. BTW, this also fits the manual gearbox drain plug if you want to buy 2 to protect your transmission from loose ferrous particles too. Gives you an excuse to renew your gear oil with the excellent Mobil 1 PTX that eliminates that first gear engagement resistance when at a stop.
I have the LN magnetic plugs in both.
What he means by hex on this plug is that it has an exteral hex to use a regular socket. The others that keep getting messed up have an internal hex, like a large Allen key.
I have the LN magnetic plugs in both.
What he means by hex on this plug is that it has an exteral hex to use a regular socket. The others that keep getting messed up have an internal hex, like a large Allen key.
The only drain plug I've ever mangled is while using a torque wrench. A torque wrench is supposed to give you a specific torque setting obviously but it removes any "feel" you have with your hand. And, many are inaccurate. I prefer a small ratchet (or box wrench depending on plug). If you pay attention you can actually feel the plug engage the crush washer then snug up to the pan. Even a firm hand will rarely get beyond 25ft/lb torque using a small ratchet (or box wrench). I suspect your problem is an inaccurate torque wrench or a bad bit.
#40
Rennlist Member
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8...BSSR/203559457
#41
Rennlist Member
Convert to a drain plug that is a standard 6 point and not the stupid hex.
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/porsche.php
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/porsche.php
#43
Instructor
On my 997.2 I've found that over time, the LN Engineering magnetic plug (the one that requires 19 ft/lbs) requires slightly more force than that to prevent any oil leaks. A brand new plug works fine e.g. there are no leaks at 19 ft/lbs, but after a reuse of the plug, 20 ft/lbs or more was required to prevent leaks, just as an example. There have been times where I've had to go as high as 25 ft/lbs to prevent any sign of leakage.
This past weekend, I did an oil change and went back to a new OEM drain plug (the one that requires 37 ft/lbs). My method of torquing this was was to start and 19 ft/lbs and increment 1 ft/lb each time until reaching 37 ft/lbs.
Something else I do when loosing the drain plug, is to loosen the drain plug when cold prior to warming up the engine to get the oil circulating. To loose the plug, I use a breaker bar just to slightly loosen the drain plug, then start the engine to warm up and circulate the oil. After this, I'm able to loosen and remove the drain plug by hand and there are no leaks whatsoever.
This past weekend, I did an oil change and went back to a new OEM drain plug (the one that requires 37 ft/lbs). My method of torquing this was was to start and 19 ft/lbs and increment 1 ft/lb each time until reaching 37 ft/lbs.
Something else I do when loosing the drain plug, is to loosen the drain plug when cold prior to warming up the engine to get the oil circulating. To loose the plug, I use a breaker bar just to slightly loosen the drain plug, then start the engine to warm up and circulate the oil. After this, I'm able to loosen and remove the drain plug by hand and there are no leaks whatsoever.
#44
I believe that the oem drain plugs are aluminum, so if you for some reason over tighten you damage the plug male threads not the female thread on the drain pan. Careful with the steel drain plugs, do not over tighten as you may strip the threads on the pan, and that could be very expensive to repair.
Obviously use a new crush washer every time you change the oil. Made from a soft metal enabling a good seal. Again, do not overtighten
Obviously use a new crush washer every time you change the oil. Made from a soft metal enabling a good seal. Again, do not overtighten
#45
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I believe that the oem drain plugs are aluminum, so if you for some reason over tighten you damage the plug male threads not the female thread on the drain pan. Careful with the steel drain plugs, do not over tighten as you may strip the threads on the pan, and that could be very expensive to repair.
Obviously use a new crush washer every time you change the oil. Made from a soft metal enabling a good seal. Again, do not overtighten
Obviously use a new crush washer every time you change the oil. Made from a soft metal enabling a good seal. Again, do not overtighten
Hmm..... let's see how much minutia we can write about drain plugs.....
FYI, I never had a problem with any plug any car I've owned... not bragging, but I suspect issues are related to over tightening. I never realized how much I overtighten things until I got a torque wrench. BTW, I only use cheapo washers and never had a drip.
Peace
Bruce in Philly