PDK home servicing
#17
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It's my understanding that you need a PWIS to engage the clutches to get out all the oil. I wanted to do this at a indie shop but I just have to bite the bullet and have it done at the dealer
#18
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I believe there is also a procedure to get the oil at a specific temperature - from Slicky Rick....
Ok gentlemen. Just for additional knowledge of all. I've done my clutch oil and gearbox oil change. Drain both oils. My dealer drained overnight. If doing gearbox oil, which I did as it removed assembly dirt etc., fill gearbox with the correct lubricant in the normal mode. Then pre fill clutch oil with around 2 liters of the oil. Start engine to bring clutch oil to correct temp of 30 to 50..then use piwis to go into fill mode. Fill mode does not last 5 minutes to protect the gearbox when in fill mode fill clutch oil till it overflows from the filler hole. That's it!!
Gearbox quieter, smooth shifts....performance improvement noticed!
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...replace-2.html
Ok gentlemen. Just for additional knowledge of all. I've done my clutch oil and gearbox oil change. Drain both oils. My dealer drained overnight. If doing gearbox oil, which I did as it removed assembly dirt etc., fill gearbox with the correct lubricant in the normal mode. Then pre fill clutch oil with around 2 liters of the oil. Start engine to bring clutch oil to correct temp of 30 to 50..then use piwis to go into fill mode. Fill mode does not last 5 minutes to protect the gearbox when in fill mode fill clutch oil till it overflows from the filler hole. That's it!!
Gearbox quieter, smooth shifts....performance improvement noticed!
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...replace-2.html
#19
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I appreciate your willingness to try this on your own, but I don't understand your logic. You have a concern around making sure its done 'well' and attention to details-but this method is the farthest from it, isn't it?
Not trying to be a negative nancy but just my two cents.
Also on the theory of purging over time, wouldn't some of the contaminants just migrate to the new oil and reach an equilibrium across both oils. You would then be purging some new oil every time you purge old.?
I guess a way to test this theory is try with a cup of water with food coloring in it. If you dump/add as you theorize-lets see what happens.
Regardless of my whining good luck.
Not trying to be a negative nancy but just my two cents.
Also on the theory of purging over time, wouldn't some of the contaminants just migrate to the new oil and reach an equilibrium across both oils. You would then be purging some new oil every time you purge old.?
I guess a way to test this theory is try with a cup of water with food coloring in it. If you dump/add as you theorize-lets see what happens.
Regardless of my whining good luck.
I say go for it...2 litres is 40% of the total capacity, and if you change again your at over 60%.
#20
Rennlist Member
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How do you know a filter is clean?
#21
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franklyluis, I backed out of this scheme a few posts ago. I had the spirit, the initiative and the desire, but alas, not practical.
as I have said, someone will crack the code on this, and figure out how to
get this done without the intervention of an impractical (to own/operate) PIWIS.
probably a Porsche afficianado with tech savvy interest/vocation.
it ain't me, babe.
I will keep my ears/eyes open for info
I am not rich and not poor, but I have always had a desire to do as much of my mechanical work as possible. it's a therapy of sorts, and the satisfaction pays dividends too.
not to mention money saved! mechanics are about 100.00- 150.00 an hour! Sometimes it is necessary to defer to the folks with expertise, special equipment or both.
I never dreamed I could rebuild a transmission by myself, until I did it. or strip/rebuild carburetors, until I did it. it wasn't a PDK for sure (turbo 400).
wrench twisting is in my blood
as I have said, someone will crack the code on this, and figure out how to
get this done without the intervention of an impractical (to own/operate) PIWIS.
probably a Porsche afficianado with tech savvy interest/vocation.
it ain't me, babe.
I will keep my ears/eyes open for info
I am not rich and not poor, but I have always had a desire to do as much of my mechanical work as possible. it's a therapy of sorts, and the satisfaction pays dividends too.
not to mention money saved! mechanics are about 100.00- 150.00 an hour! Sometimes it is necessary to defer to the folks with expertise, special equipment or both.
I never dreamed I could rebuild a transmission by myself, until I did it. or strip/rebuild carburetors, until I did it. it wasn't a PDK for sure (turbo 400).
wrench twisting is in my blood
#22
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I finally did the math and a DIY PDK OIL change is possible. A poster - Orange260Z said a dealer changed 3.4 quarts of oil (without a PIWIS Oil Fill Mode). The total PDK oil capacity is 5.5 quarts so 62% of the oil was clean. If you drove the car (mixed the oil homogenously) and changed the oil again (same quantities) you would have 14.5% old oil in the transmission. In order to get the oil sufficiently clean (< 5%) you would only have to change the oil 3 times!
Now, what about the cost: $321 for pan w/filter (only change once), $220 for oil (3.4Q X 3 changes @ $20ea.) and labor is free (DIY). The total is $541, which is $400 less than dealer.
Now, what about the cost: $321 for pan w/filter (only change once), $220 for oil (3.4Q X 3 changes @ $20ea.) and labor is free (DIY). The total is $541, which is $400 less than dealer.
#23
Three Wheelin'
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$400 less than the dealer but you're counting your time an effort at being worth $0.. by that calculation.
#24
Instructor
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I finally did the math and a DIY PDK OIL change is possible. A poster - Orange260Z said a dealer changed 3.4 quarts of oil (without a PIWIS Oil Fill Mode). The total PDK oil capacity is 5.5 quarts so 62% of the oil was clean. If you drove the car (mixed the oil homogenously) and changed the oil again (same quantities) you would have 14.5% old oil in the transmission. In order to get the oil sufficiently clean (< 5%) you would only have to change the oil 3 times!
Now, what about the cost: $321 for pan w/filter (only change once), $220 for oil (3.4Q X 3 changes @ $20ea.) and labor is free (DIY). The total is $541, which is $400 less than dealer.
Now, what about the cost: $321 for pan w/filter (only change once), $220 for oil (3.4Q X 3 changes @ $20ea.) and labor is free (DIY). The total is $541, which is $400 less than dealer.
#25
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You guys are missing one major point here with the whole remove this % of fluid, adding this %, then acounting for this %... The PIWIS is operating in a fill mode after bleeding the system and activating the clutches hydraulic system. Therefore, if you aren't adding fluid during that mode as designed, you aren't setting the correct fluid level even if you're within the correct fluid temperature range.
I completely understand the DIY nature of taking care of these vehicles as overall prices drop, but you're still servicing a $90k+ sports car. And taking a chance on damaging a very expensive dual clutch transmission just to save a few hundred dollars. Instead, find a good indie who is capable of doing it for you, or suck it up and pay a dealership.
I completely understand the DIY nature of taking care of these vehicles as overall prices drop, but you're still servicing a $90k+ sports car. And taking a chance on damaging a very expensive dual clutch transmission just to save a few hundred dollars. Instead, find a good indie who is capable of doing it for you, or suck it up and pay a dealership.
#26
Rennlist Member
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To the OP -
If you are going to do the job, here are a couple docs that you may find helpful - for 997.2. You have read the pros and cons and ultimately it is your decision. Good luck and all the best.
If you are going to do the job, here are a couple docs that you may find helpful - for 997.2. You have read the pros and cons and ultimately it is your decision. Good luck and all the best.
#27
Rennlist Member
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Thanks for the info Stronbl
So running thru RND will allow the clutches to be adequately lubricated then using the piwis to shut off the cooling pump and allow oil to settle will cause oil to exit the fill hole or require more oil in the fill hole ? After the tranny was prefilled is the million dollar question.
Looks like a piwis is definitely needed
So running thru RND will allow the clutches to be adequately lubricated then using the piwis to shut off the cooling pump and allow oil to settle will cause oil to exit the fill hole or require more oil in the fill hole ? After the tranny was prefilled is the million dollar question.
Looks like a piwis is definitely needed
#28
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Just read an interesting article on the PDK's manufactured by ZF
http://www.just-auto.com/analysis/zf..._id101268.aspx
All of the 7DT transmissions were developed (and successfully tested) to use a lifetime oil fill, but Porsche decided to err on the side of caution and opted for a 90,000km oil change interval.
http://www.just-auto.com/analysis/zf..._id101268.aspx
All of the 7DT transmissions were developed (and successfully tested) to use a lifetime oil fill, but Porsche decided to err on the side of caution and opted for a 90,000km oil change interval.