Black Stone Guards
#47
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Just to follow up.. my MagnaGrafik stone guards fell off at speed (and got lost). I emailed the company and they implied that it was my fault, didnt care or offer to fix it. Lost me as a customer for good.
#48
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Approx what speed is "at speed". 3 digits?
Thanks.
#49
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Can you imagine how many people call and make the claim? Don't take it as non support but as protection from loss. Just because you drive a Porsche doesn't mean people are always honest. Not saying you are not mind you. Just that's the way it is.
#50
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Another option for those wanting black stone guards: PlastiDip.
I masked the perimeter of my yellowed/hazy factory clear guards with some painters tape and sprayed with black PlastiDip (actually I think it was a Rustoleum equivalent). Took about an hour to wash and clean the area (car soap and water followed by wipe with alcohol on a towel on the sticker), mask and spray several coats.
Note that you don't need to be too precise when you mask. The edge of the factory sticker provides a tear point when you peel up the overspray. Read the instructions on your paint, but i think I did 3 light coats followed by a wet coat. The wet coat is the tricky one as it may want to run. I got a bit of sagging in some heavy spots, but it mostly flattened out when dry and is not noticeable from a couple feet.
Peel the masking after an hour of dry time and clean up any overspray. I trimmed the cotton heads off of a Qtip and used the paper stick as a soft scraper to clean up any extra residue around the edge (using the factory sticker as a guide).
Looks great. Less than $10. Completely reversible. Time (8 mos and going strong), heat (Houston summer), and speed (um, fast) tested.
I masked the perimeter of my yellowed/hazy factory clear guards with some painters tape and sprayed with black PlastiDip (actually I think it was a Rustoleum equivalent). Took about an hour to wash and clean the area (car soap and water followed by wipe with alcohol on a towel on the sticker), mask and spray several coats.
Note that you don't need to be too precise when you mask. The edge of the factory sticker provides a tear point when you peel up the overspray. Read the instructions on your paint, but i think I did 3 light coats followed by a wet coat. The wet coat is the tricky one as it may want to run. I got a bit of sagging in some heavy spots, but it mostly flattened out when dry and is not noticeable from a couple feet.
Peel the masking after an hour of dry time and clean up any overspray. I trimmed the cotton heads off of a Qtip and used the paper stick as a soft scraper to clean up any extra residue around the edge (using the factory sticker as a guide).
Looks great. Less than $10. Completely reversible. Time (8 mos and going strong), heat (Houston summer), and speed (um, fast) tested.
Last edited by Brainz; 08-27-2016 at 07:39 PM.
#51
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Another option for those wanting black stone guards: PlastiDip.
I masked the perimeter of my yellowed/hazy factory clear guards with some painters tape and sprayed with black PlastiDip (actually I think it was a Duplicolor equivalent). Looks great. Took about an hour to wash and clean the area (car soap and water followed by wipe with alcohol on a towel on the sticker), mask and spray several coats.
Note that you don't need to be too precise when you mask. The edge of the factory sticker provides a tear point when you peel up the overspray. Read the instructions on your paint, but i think I did 3 light coats followed by a wet coat. The wet coat is the tricky one as it may want to run. I got a bit of sagging in some heavy spots, but it mostly flattened out when dry and is not noticeable from a couple feet.
Peel the masking after an hour of dry time and clean up any overspray. I trimmed the cotton heads off of a Qtip and used the paper stick as a soft scraper to clean up any extra residue around the edge (using the factory sticker as a guide).
Looks great. Less than $10. Completely reversible. Time (8 mos and going strong), heat (Houston summer), and speed (um, fast) tested.
I masked the perimeter of my yellowed/hazy factory clear guards with some painters tape and sprayed with black PlastiDip (actually I think it was a Duplicolor equivalent). Looks great. Took about an hour to wash and clean the area (car soap and water followed by wipe with alcohol on a towel on the sticker), mask and spray several coats.
Note that you don't need to be too precise when you mask. The edge of the factory sticker provides a tear point when you peel up the overspray. Read the instructions on your paint, but i think I did 3 light coats followed by a wet coat. The wet coat is the tricky one as it may want to run. I got a bit of sagging in some heavy spots, but it mostly flattened out when dry and is not noticeable from a couple feet.
Peel the masking after an hour of dry time and clean up any overspray. I trimmed the cotton heads off of a Qtip and used the paper stick as a soft scraper to clean up any extra residue around the edge (using the factory sticker as a guide).
Looks great. Less than $10. Completely reversible. Time (8 mos and going strong), heat (Houston summer), and speed (um, fast) tested.
#52
Drifting
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Brainz, please let us know what the old, clear stone guards look like when you remove the Plasti-Dip. I have read about some color staining when dark P-Dip is sprayed over light-colored surfaces and left on for a while. Some people recommend a base-coat of a light color or clear as a buffer before you spray dark P-Dip onto a contrasting surface.
#53
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Brainz, please let us know what the old, clear stone guards look like when you remove the Plasti-Dip. I have read about some color staining when dark P-Dip is sprayed over light-colored surfaces and left on for a while. Some people recommend a base-coat of a light color or clear as a buffer before you spray dark P-Dip onto a contrasting surface.
Since mine were yellow and chalky/rough I'll probably just recoat them with the black if I need to. The factory guard makes the perfect template for PlastiDip, so no point in removing it, even if in bad shape, if all you plan on doing is covering it with PlastiDip.
#57
Drifting
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Will do. I'm assuming you're mostly concerned about the staining assuming you have nice existing clear guards. If your clear guards are nice, I might lay down a coat or two of clear or gray to protect it as you suggest.
Since mine were yellow and chalky/rough I'll probably just recoat them with the black if I need to. The factory guard makes the perfect template for PlastiDip, so no point in removing it, even if in bad shape, if all you plan on doing is covering it with PlastiDip.
Since mine were yellow and chalky/rough I'll probably just recoat them with the black if I need to. The factory guard makes the perfect template for PlastiDip, so no point in removing it, even if in bad shape, if all you plan on doing is covering it with PlastiDip.
#58
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That will do it. I remember calling Micrografik a few weeks after I ordered, asking about my order. We got to chatting, and he mentioned that if they get wet, you should remove them and dry them off. The capillary effect will get water to go underneath the stone guards, and the result is to make them "less sticky".
Perhaps they should include this warning with the stoneguards (maybe they do, but I guess I didn't read it).
Luckily, I live in Socal, so don't really need to worry about the rain too often.
Perhaps they should include this warning with the stoneguards (maybe they do, but I guess I didn't read it).
Luckily, I live in Socal, so don't really need to worry about the rain too often.