Bleeding my brakes
03-31-2016, 05:44 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
So the higher the boiling point, the more often you need to change it? That makes zero sense. ATE type 200 recommended flush interval is 3 years instead of customary 2 despite its higher boiling temperature.
BTW, I use ATE type 200, very warmly recommended, it's better than stock.
03-31-2016, 05:57 PM
#17
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With those turbo wheels on your car, you have the ability to save a lot of time and sweat and bleed the calipers without taking the wheels off. There is enough room there to get your hand, a wrench, and the tube on both bleed nipples. You will only need to roll the car slightly to get the wheel opening lined up. Have fun!
03-31-2016, 06:40 PM
#18
You can use these for solo bleeding as well. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Honestly, I haven't used anything other than Motul 600 in years on any of my cars - mostly because I buy it by the case...
-td
Honestly, I haven't used anything other than Motul 600 in years on any of my cars - mostly because I buy it by the case...
-td
03-31-2016, 06:42 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
You might consider running cheaper fluid thru intially at the fartherest wheel. And bleeding the clutch. Petza has good system for bleeding the clutch, which is a pain because the nipple sits on top of the tranny. It's not too bad after you learn how to do it.
03-31-2016, 07:11 PM
#20
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How do you know? re: 'OEM fluid it is identical to Pentosin SuperDot 4'
OE REFERENCE NUMBERS/RECOMMENDATIONS
Make Reference Number
Mercedes Benz 000 989 08 07 19
Porsche 000 043 203 66
Porsche 000 043 203 67
http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/P...SuperDot_4.pdf
03-31-2016, 07:45 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
LOL, no it's hygroscopic: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy
A hydroscope is a device for viewing underwater, so hydroscopic would be related to underwater viewing.
A hydroscope is a device for viewing underwater, so hydroscopic would be related to underwater viewing.
03-31-2016, 08:05 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
I've gotten some good info from searches, so feel safe posting without being punched in the face, even though I am a Porsche owner who might have committed the minor infraction of asking something that was asked before. 
My understanding (from searching!) is that the a 997 brake fluid refill is in order every two years.
I learned this because, while my rotors are in fantastic shape and there is ample meat on all brake pads, my pedal action (as I just cross two years of ownership) went from very firm and strong to a bit soft. Not going to say spongy, but relative to two years ago, it's a soft brake pedal feel.
1) Is it best just to go back to spec/stock fluid? Are higher-performing brake fluids available if I am looking at 90% spirited street driving?
2) Is there anything unique to the process for 997's?
3) Any specific pointers?
4) Anyone want to punch me?
My understanding (from searching!) is that the a 997 brake fluid refill is in order every two years.
I learned this because, while my rotors are in fantastic shape and there is ample meat on all brake pads, my pedal action (as I just cross two years of ownership) went from very firm and strong to a bit soft. Not going to say spongy, but relative to two years ago, it's a soft brake pedal feel.
1) Is it best just to go back to spec/stock fluid? Are higher-performing brake fluids available if I am looking at 90% spirited street driving?
2) Is there anything unique to the process for 997's?
3) Any specific pointers?
4) Anyone want to punch me?
Just follow the proper bleed order, outer valve first then inner valve.
From the workshop manual:
Bleeding brakes
3. Connect a bleeding device to the brake fluid reservoir. Switch on the bleeding device. Bleeding
pressure is approx. 2.0 bar.
4. Continue the bleeding procedure at the brake calipers. Do so in the following sequence: rear right/rear
left/front right/front left. Bleed the outer bleeder valve first.
5. Use a transparent hose and a collecting bottle to check the escaping brake fluid is clean and free of air
bubbles and to determine the amount of brake fluid used.
6. Open each bleeder valve until clear, bubble-free brake fluid emerges.
7. Tighten the bleeder valves to the stipulated tightening torque and remove the bleeder hoses.
8. Generate vacuum in brake booster by starting engine. Check brake-pedal travel and pedal
feel.
Check the brake system for residual air by the amount of brake pedal travel. Repeat the bleeding procedure if
necessary. Operate (pump) the brake pedal at the same time as described below. This will remove the
remaining air bubbles from the primary circuit.
03-31-2016, 10:53 PM
#24
Nordschleife Master
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Originally Posted by himself
You can use these for solo bleeding as well. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Honestly, I haven't used anything other than Motul 600 in years on any of my cars - mostly because I buy it by the case...
-td
Honestly, I haven't used anything other than Motul 600 in years on any of my cars - mostly because I buy it by the case...
-td
04-01-2016, 09:38 AM
#25
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Good info from all.
As for increasing hygroscopic properties: It wouldn't stop me from opting for better fluid and jumping to annual flushes, and it won't be the first time I've dealt with such fluids, but (if true) that is an excellent reminder as to the downside of getting brake fluid with a higher boiling point.
.
As for increasing hygroscopic properties: It wouldn't stop me from opting for better fluid and jumping to annual flushes, and it won't be the first time I've dealt with such fluids, but (if true) that is an excellent reminder as to the downside of getting brake fluid with a higher boiling point.
.
LOL, no it's hygroscopic: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy
A hydroscope is a device for viewing underwater, so hydroscopic would be related to underwater viewing.
A hydroscope is a device for viewing underwater, so hydroscopic would be related to underwater viewing.
04-01-2016, 12:16 PM
#26
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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04-01-2016, 12:55 PM
#27
Perhaps bleeding the brakes at 6 months and then changing annually would make sense. But a complete brake fluid flush twice a year for street driving [and perhaps under 6,000 miles for some people!] seems like overkill.
-td
04-01-2016, 01:05 PM
#28
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Why do you recommend flushing more than once per year? Porsche recommends once every two years on street cars. Changing twice a year would be 4X more than Porsche recommends.
Perhaps bleeding the brakes at 6 months and then changing annually would make sense. But a complete brake fluid flush twice a year for street driving [and perhaps under 6,000 miles for some people!] seems like overkill.
-td
Perhaps bleeding the brakes at 6 months and then changing annually would make sense. But a complete brake fluid flush twice a year for street driving [and perhaps under 6,000 miles for some people!] seems like overkill.
-td
04-01-2016, 01:34 PM
#29
Thanks for the clarification. When Philster said he was considering moving to annual flushes and then you responded he should be doing it more regularly, it seemed like you were saying twice a year! Makes sense now!
-td
-td
04-01-2016, 02:35 PM
#30
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