hockenheimr

On my 997.1 C2S with 25,000 miles, the shifter is getting really notchy. In the past, 1st gear could be a bit difficult when the car was cold, but now it seems to be all the time. Plus, it seems to be happening more often in all gears. I don't think it's the syncros, I don't think it's the clutch. I'm thinking it could be motor mounts, or bushings inside the shifter.

I'm currently scheduled for a pre-track inspection and I've told them about my issue.

Should I just opt for a short shift kit instead of tying to diagnos the issue?

Thanks Guys, your always awesome

david

Has the transaxle fluid ever been replaced?

mopar bob

Installing the short shifter helped my 46,000 mile C2. It did wonders for the car. I'm not sure if it was just adjusting the cables but to get to the cables your almost to the point of changing the shifter. The Factory GT3 shifter comes with the adjustment tool and is easy to install and adjust. The hardest part is pulling the console. If you ask me the car should only come with the short shifter installed. There are a few threads on installing the shifter.

ADias

Cable adjustment should be your first check point.

Macster

Never had to adjust any shifter linkage in any car I've ever owned.

When was the last time you had the brake and clutch fluid flushed and bled?

Don't dismiss this: A while back the clutch action on one of my Porsches got lousy and the shifting deteriorated as well.

No matter how hard I tried I was unable to get the car to move off from a stop smoothly and shifting just seemed to produce gear crunching no matter how deliberate I was in pushing in the clutch and moving the gear lever.

After the SM looked up my car's service record and pointed out the last brake/clutch fluid flush/bleed as 2.5 years earlier I had this done and afterwards the transformation was a minor miracle.

If this fluid flush/bleed is over due or just due or even just close to being due have it done first is my advice. If it doesn't help then you have the other options open to you.

semicycler

Bleeding the clutch is a good idea. The clutch fluid is shared with the brakes. The 997.1 has a bleed screw on the slave cylinder under the car on the top of the transmission. 997.2 does not have the bleed screw as it's a recirculating system. Since you are going to the track, fresh brake fluid is valuable. Be sure to bleed the clutch at the same time. Brake fluid is cheap, it's all about the labor.

Cable adjustment next also makes sense. The adjustment tool is also cheap, so again all about the labor.

If you still have the problem, then I'd step up to a SSK. Even if it turns out you need a clutch replacement in the end, you will love the SSK anyway.

hockenheimr

I had the brake fluid changed last month, but I doubt they bleed the clutch. I'm having the transmission fluid changed next week, so I will ask them to go back and bleed the clutch at the same time. How hard is it to access the cables? i.e. am I going to get raped on hours.

The brake fluid change made an astonishing change to the brake feel....suddenly they were crisp again. My pads have a ton of life in them, like only 25% used. The issue I'm having with the brakes now, that I didn't have before is that they feel a bit mushy after a few hard stops. Before my brakes were not as crisp but even after lapping it the feel stayed consistent. I took a mid-quality fluid, so would a higher end fluid keep the brakes crisp longer?

Macster

If a brake fluid flush/bleed made a difference in the brake feel that's a very good sign it will help the clutch and the shifting.

When I had the overdue brake/clutch fluid flush/bleed done while the clutch action and shifting action was much improved, I noticed no improvement with the brakes.

You can check the shifter linkage adjustment if you want. I have no idea of how to do this.

The only time the shifter linkage in any car I've ever owned had to be touched was with my 2003 Turbo. The linkage broke. A larger ball socket failed, well the nylon liner. The shifter was fixed under CPO warranty. I had a 997 shifter installed at the Porsche tech's recommendation. The 997 shifter is a much better shifter than the 996 Turbo shifter. Feels more solid, more precise.

My point is with the 997 shifter I think you have a pretty good shifter already. I suspect once you get a proper clutch fluid flush/bleed done you'll be good to go.

Bruce In Philly

Adjusting the "shifter" or the cables or linkage should have no effect. First, there is no adjustment on the shifter (I am holding the original shifter from my 2009 C2S in my lap right now and it is a snap-together unit). There really is no "linkage" adjustment as the cables snap into place with a ball-socket system at both ends. You can vary the cable length (where the cables snap to the underside of the shifter), but all this does is change the reference angle of your shifter lever but has no impact on shifting gears. Read this for a better understanding (the whole thread is interesting):

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-of-5-a-3.html

Peace
Bruce in Philly

david

I'll be curious to see how the transaxle fluid change affects your issue.

I changed the transaxle fluid in my C4S a few weeks ago (~47k miles) proactively and to document it for Adrian Streather's upcoming 997.2 book.

While my manual transmission was performing perfectly, it now works even better with the new fluid.

Looking forward to the update...

DGrayling

Hey David, were you able to get the torque specs for the drain and fill plugs on your 997.2? I am looking forward to purchasing Adrian's book.
Rich
2009 997.2 C2S

david

Yup, 31 lb. ft. is the spec. Have fun...the fluid sure does stink...

myw

agreed, and then change tranny fluid. driving some of my friends 997s i am shocked at how difficult it is to get into 1st gear.

PTParks

I suspect that you may be a candidate for a shifter cable adjustment. I just installed a Porsche SSK and the improvement over the stock shifter is incredible, so if you are considering this mod, I would highly recommend it. I would do the fluid change just for peace of mind.

Petza914

My C2S has the OEM SSK and itnshifts great. I do my own brake and clutch fluid bleeds once a year and am running Mogul RBF600 in both my 997s, one of which is my wife's DD, but it's easier to only have to stock one type of brake fluid. The other things both are cars have are SS brake lines. As rubber brake lines age they swell inside and you can't tell by looking at the outside. When they do this fluid flow through the lines is restricted and the rubber lines get spongy so instead of transferring all the Pedal force to the caliper piston, some of it goes to expanding the rubber lines or forcing fluid through the restricted Jose. Pedal feel is rock solid on both my cars under all conditions. Mine has PCCBs, hers Big Reds with dba slotted rotors.