Yes the Excess version is Porsche approved.

 

Thank you!

 

Thanks great report! Showing very clearly Motul is not shearing as much and better option for most. Again, 0W40 should do fine for most, but clearly there are better options.

 

1000 miles since change back to mobile 1 ow40-

Lots of small explosions in engine allowing it to move forwards. Investigating further.

Just kidding. But I do notice my engine warms up faster, over less distance with mobile 0w40 vs the 5w40 penzoil ultra I was running. Since I plan to change the oil extremely often as pollutants are worse than anything else (shear?) I am very happy with the change.

I guess I don't understand the argument for using more expensive oil so you can go longer without an oil change...we are enthusiasts right ? Wouldn't paying for oil changes two to three times more often (or doing them yourself) outweigh spending ten dollars more on oil for the convenience of less oil changes (which is still not as good as just changing the oil more often). My oil has actually been changed twice after only about 2k miles. It's just relaxing to me to change the oil.

Also; it's my daily, it gets tracked, and I've put 30k miles on it this past year. I've done a lot of oil changes !

 

There is a correlation between KV @ 100*C and HTHS @ 150*C.
Have a look at the graph below. It comes from Infineum, they happen to know a thing or two about oils.

 

Luxter,
How can you tell by the numbers that you aren't doing short trips?

And, can you explain why those numbers do show up as short trips? I can understand moister, but you indicated other numbers....


Mike

 

Hi Mike,
Short trips (and extended cold idling) will typically register as % fuel in oil and reduced flash point and reduced kinematic viscosity in particular at 100*C. Gasolines boil as low as 70-80*C but as high as 150*C (300*F) for heavier fractions. Which means that once you get gasoline in oil you won't be able to reboil heavier fractions of it with long steady speed driving, assuming no issues with fuel to air ratios.
In other words your % gasoline, KV and flash point will remain elevated (and reduced for KV and flash point) at an equilibrium point which is difficult to predict or calculate and likely varies from engine to engine.
Gasoline will also reduce KV of your oil, negatively affecting HTHS - film strength of oil.
As I mentioned before ACEA A3/B4 2010 requires minimum HTHS at 3.5 cP. Modern oils are blended with not much more above that mark to help fuel economy. Even minor fuel dilution can easily get you over the cliff which is important in a highly thermally stressed engine.
The majority of 5W-40 oils are very close to heavier 5W-30 oils if you plot them on viscosity curve to help fuel economy.
The KV alone may not be a good indication of fuel dilution however, as it tends to go back up with various thickening processes. That would typically register as insolubles and/or degradation which my local lab actually does report.
Moisture is a lot easier, all of it boils out at 100*C, relatively normal temperature for oil in engine. Some of moisture will accumulate in oil filler cap as sludgy milky accumulation. Not a good sign yet easy to mitigate.
Yes, how you drive will determine condition of your oil and engine wear.
Motul X-Cess has boiling point at 446*F fresh out of the jug. It lost some of it which is normal, yet still a nice number given 6,600 mile service.
Hope that answers your question.
Cheers,
=L=

 

Thanks very much Luxter!


Mike

 

Luxter ... You may not be allowed to or able to answer my question. If either is the case then ignore this. I won't be offended!!! I also know this is about to get specific and may not apply to very many.

I have blindly followed Porsche recommendations. At this time I have another 4 5 quart jugs of Mobil 0-40 on the shelf, as well as my next three filters. But now my curiosity is being peaked.

If you had a 997 (2010 with DFI), which oil would you use based upon your experience? I DD 25 miles each way, primarily freeway against the commute. I enjoy weekly spirited driving of 100+ miles with revs generally 4 to 7K. I also take several trips between northern and southern CA at somewhat higher speeds (3K in PDK 7th). I total about 30K a year with oil changes every 5K miles using Mobil 0-40. The car currently has just passed 54K (bought used with 35K last September). My oil (since the first change) has been dark (not bad) but fairly transparent during the oil changes. I have seen no sign of moisture. And I burn zero oil between changes (measure drained quantity and fill it with the same).

I haven't been thinking I need to change, but shear and other things mentioned above ...

 

It sounds like you want to use up your Mobil 0W40 before making a change.

I'd suggest you mix your current oil 50/50 with Mobil 5W50 (buy on Amazon) until all the 0W40 is gone.

Then either go to Motul or 100% Mobil 5W50.

 

Wayne, don't let these oil fumes get to you. You are falling under the influence. I almost fell for Leno's additive video... My dealership is offering detox sessions where all I have to do is hand over money... Some more money.... Then some more.. and I'll be saved.

Think about it.......

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

The DFI opens up a fresh can of worms…. Many OEM’s have had issues in the past: VW comes immediately to my mind. The primary concern here is intake deposits. Tests show that mid-SAPS oils reduce the severity of the issue and you can see the trend on A40 list for sure. More and more mid-SAPS oils get approved.
Keep in mind that the primary function of engine oil is to protect the engine from wear, or prevent metal to metal contact primarily in boundary and mixed states of lubrication. There are several other functions as well, let’s leave them alone for a moment.
Reducing SAPS in oils has detrimental effect on engine protection. In other words we’re asking oil blenders for contradictory requirements.
Given your driving pattern, I would try oils that carry ACEA A3/B4 and C3 specifications, such as Motul X-Clean 5W-40 or Millers XF Longlife 5W-40 that are also A40 approved.
M1 seems to be a good choice as well given that it’s blended with engine cleanliness in mind.
The challenge is that the mid-SAPS oils are sensitive to poor quality of gasolines (common in NA: US and Canada with ambiguous specifications and broad tolerances). It is quite different in EU. Their specifications are very rigid and limit sulfur to 10 ppm. Our specs are much higher. Yes, modern refineries are designed and built to provide ultra low sulfur fuels (I happen to scope one to be build in Utah as we speak), some old ones however don’t meet the latest requirements. Long story short, ensure that you use the best quality gasolines for your car. I can’t offer any more specifics regarding gasolines as I am based in Canada (i.e. Shell has always been popular here). If in doubt, change your oil more frequently as you already do.
In addition, the latest ACEA C3 requirements make it impossible to meet A3/B4 requirements, so going forward we will see these specs to permanently divorce.
These are very complex issues, very difficult to comprehend, at least for my little peanut brain.
I can highly recommend Lubrizol web site, very informative. I recently visited their facility in Hazelwood, UK and I can assure you they have real scientists on staff, people who wear sweaters, blue jeans and comfy shoes and speak their own jargon for a reason.
Have a look at this:
Really fascinating. At least for me!
Cheers,
=L=

 

So I've been reading more about the difference between race oils and every day oils.

Race oils are intended to be used for short time periods (a race) and changed quickly. This would be like mobile1 5w50. Some have engine cleaning additives and some don't. You want the ones that do have it if street driving and not changing oil every time you drive it hard for an extended period of time.

For catalytic converters, race engine oils will eventually destroy them because some of their additives wear out cats.
So the question is do you want an oil that is an all arounder or a very good race type oil you change each track event ? Do you care if you have to replace your catalytic converters early if you are adding extra protection for your engine ?

Even then the best factor is how often you change oil to remove unwanted particles that naturally build up.

 

Smashing new Top 40 hit : Rennlist feat Bob the Oil guy-Oh how oil changed my life! LOL!

 

Another convert to Motul 007250-4PK 8100 X-cess 5W-40.

I was using Mobil 1. I'll assume it is perfectly ok to do the swap and not look back. The two are 100% compatible yes?