Spiffyjiff

not to hijack but quick question...would you venture the same guess if it burned oil (and smoked at start up) ONLY during hard track driving days? i.e. mine never burns oil, never smokes when daily street driving. it only exhibits this during track days. don't get me wrong, i'm quite sure i have worn parts in there but i always felt this behavior was more an "AOS inability to keep up with track sessions" issue.

Spoddle

Your issue sounds like a classic AOS problem.

If it burned more than a quart of oil between 5k mile oil changes I'd be more inclined to think it's a bore scoring issue.

Quadcammer

thats actually not true

Spoddle

If that's not true, what is the difference?

Quadcammer

there are significant discussions regarding this topic in the 996 forum. Jake Raby provides good input as does Hartech in the UK...both of whom are regarded as experts in the m96/97 field.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...hermostat.html

thats a start, but do some googling on the topic and you'll find far more in depth discussion.

mattyf

This isn't true either. Plenty of cars burn 1 qt or more between 5k oil changes. It doesn't infer there is bore scoring.

Spoddle

I said it's possible, not guaranteed.

gpjli2

Highly unlikely given discussions on average oil consumption on this and other forums. Very healthy engines use oil in varying amounts. No need to create any more angst if you please

Cheadrick

This is in regard to. The 997.1 with clicking high engine temps and metal in the oil. Thanks to all of you for the feed back. The latest is that the oil analysis shows 10 times the amount of aluminum that is expected. No nickel and 2 x the iron. Some silica.
There has not been an inspection to tear down of the engine. Based on experience, the master mechanic wanted to avoid a 4000 dollar bill to say - you need a new engine.
There is nothing on the market. Right now thinking about selling car and getting a newer model. Some features that I would like for the traveling I do. I have approached customer service and that was not helpful. I am conflicted between finding out what is really going on and throwing in the towel. M

semicycler

You can have the cylinders inspected with a camera (boroscope) through the spark plug holes. It's nowhere near $4K for this inspection - there is no engine tear down to do it. If there is cylinder wall scoring it will be seen during this inspection. Since the dealer suspects the sleeves as a problem, this is a relatively inexpensive way to confirm. Cylinder compression tests also through the spark plug holes is another way to test the health of the engine. Both do not require an engine tear down.

The dealer could be wrong too with their sleeve suspicion. It could be an early IMS bearing failure or even an early oil pump failure, before it became a catastrophic engine problem. If true and if caught early enough the repair would be far less than the $24K number being tossed around.

If it were my car I'd pay for camera inspection and hope its not cylinder scoring. If it's scoring, then maybe it's time to "cut bait" and move on. But if the cylinders are fine, maybe pay to have the oil pan dropped for a visual inspection of the underside of the engine. Between the oil analysis showing there is a problem, a visual inspection of the cylinder walls from the top, and an underside inspection from dropping the oil pan, there would be enough information at a reasonable diagnostic price to decide my direction. Good luck!

myw

this post alone should be a sticky!

ocmacman

So you replaced engine a couple of months ago? Where did you get the engine? I am looking for an engine for my 2006 C2S.

Ni_Mo

As already stated by the OP there was some front end damage, what was the damage? Was it investigated properly? The reason why is that the rad hoses run down the length of the car to the engine, if there was any kind of damage to the pipes that would have restricted the flow of coolant to the engine that would lead to.....engine failure.
I had my engine rebuilt by Hartech & had lengthy conversations with them regarding why this happens & as already stated check out Hartech.org there is a wealth of advice & these guys rebuild engines from all over the world. The long and the short of it is, there are some areas which P could have improved on, doesn't really matter about how you maintain your car to some extent, not saying to neglect your engine - they had a 997, one lady owner from new with 20K & every service completed oil changes every year, never tracked or driven hard & her car was at Hartech, full engine rebuild.
Long story short it is rare, when it does go wrong it can be expensive, just do your oil changes yearly, I'm using a oil recommended to me by Hartech & I can say that it burns very little to no oil at all during oil changes - only 3K on it since the rebuild
For me enjoy the car, drive it how you like & if it does need a rebuild then you'll know that the engine is better then when it rolled off the line.

vitman

I had all of the work done at Champion in S. Florida. Engine sourced from factory. 2 year warranty. Added motorsport airbox. New chip. Original PSE failed after about 6 years and previously replaced with Tubi - exhaust. It is truly better than new to drive. Obviously this is an expensive repair, but if you have the car that you want and plan on keeping it for awhile, I think it is better than trading it for an unknown used car and way less expensive than a new 991 which in my opinion is a bit more GT.

fatfat

hi all, iam owner of 2006 C2 M9605 motor with 101,500 kilometers with scored bore on passenger side of engine in Toronto; ie black exhaust pipe on drivers side and LOUD tapping noise. it burns about 800ml of 10W60 oil every 1,200km. A german car mechanic told me the way to go is with a short block from factory because some of the original engines (crank and casing) were twisting under load enough to cause bore damage.