Numeric Racing vs OEM shifter
#46
Rennlist Member
Bumping up an old thread.. I installed the Numeric several months ago.. 10 autocrosses and 5 track weekends later I have developed the same right-left wobble as is in the video. Shifting still works - and it wasn't there post install - just wondering if anyone has had any similar instances.
I plan to reach out to Numeric on this one as well... GREAT product though - I love it.
I plan to reach out to Numeric on this one as well... GREAT product though - I love it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ilure-fyi.html
#48
Burning Brakes
For some reason, Dervish thinks he is an expert on our shifter and likes to state that our shifter is prone to failure, which is a broad statement and is certainly not true. Unfortunately, bearing failure happened on a handful of shifters, one being Dervish. We concluded that we had received bearings that were possibly from a bad batch from our manufacturer.
Blue Chip, if you could please send an email to sales@numericracing.com. This is the fastest way to get a hold of Dan, who can help you with any issues that you may have. Thank you!
Blue Chip, if you could please send an email to sales@numericracing.com. This is the fastest way to get a hold of Dan, who can help you with any issues that you may have. Thank you!
#49
For some reason, Dervish thinks he is an expert on our shifter and likes to state that our shifter is prone to failure, which is a broad statement and is certainly not true. Unfortunately, bearing failure happened on a handful of shifters, one being Dervish. We concluded that we had received bearings that were possibly from a bad batch from our manufacturer.
Blue Chip, if you could please send an email to sales@numericracing.com. This is the fastest way to get a hold of Dan, who can help you with any issues that you may have. Thank you!
Blue Chip, if you could please send an email to sales@numericracing.com. This is the fastest way to get a hold of Dan, who can help you with any issues that you may have. Thank you!
#50
Bringing up an old thread, again. I am just getting around to installing my numeric shifter and cables. I have a call into Dan at Numeric but just in case I don't here back from him today I thought I would ask others since I want to finish this up tomorrow.
I see the procedure for how to make sure you have enough travel room for the cable to slide through the outer sleeve by making sure the mounting nuts to the brackets on the car/shifter center the sleeve properly. I'm not clear on how I know how far to screw on the mounts on each end of the cable though. Maybe I was supposed to mark the original distance of the oem cable mounts so that I had a cable length set but I didn't and the oem ends have been screwed off the cable. Also, when adjusting the position of the pole (let's say from the "highest" hole to the "lowest" hole/throw, this would seem to change the travel distance of the bottom of the shift level therefore changing the length of the cable movement.?
Anyway, my question is, how do I establish the correct position of the ball mounts on each end of the cable to make sure it engages each gear properly? Not understanding exactly how the transmission works inside, maybe this is or isn't critical. I'm not sure but I would rather not assemble every thing and have to take everything back apart to make adjustments.
Second, is there a way to establish that each shift point is correctly engaging while up on stands? Is that as simple as engaging each gear point and making sure the rear wheel doesn't turn? The only problem I see with that is I have no idea what gear it would be in but again this may be not relevant since I don't understand how the cable is engaging the transmission internally.
Thanks for any help and I hope my terminology makes sense!
I see the procedure for how to make sure you have enough travel room for the cable to slide through the outer sleeve by making sure the mounting nuts to the brackets on the car/shifter center the sleeve properly. I'm not clear on how I know how far to screw on the mounts on each end of the cable though. Maybe I was supposed to mark the original distance of the oem cable mounts so that I had a cable length set but I didn't and the oem ends have been screwed off the cable. Also, when adjusting the position of the pole (let's say from the "highest" hole to the "lowest" hole/throw, this would seem to change the travel distance of the bottom of the shift level therefore changing the length of the cable movement.?
Anyway, my question is, how do I establish the correct position of the ball mounts on each end of the cable to make sure it engages each gear properly? Not understanding exactly how the transmission works inside, maybe this is or isn't critical. I'm not sure but I would rather not assemble every thing and have to take everything back apart to make adjustments.
Second, is there a way to establish that each shift point is correctly engaging while up on stands? Is that as simple as engaging each gear point and making sure the rear wheel doesn't turn? The only problem I see with that is I have no idea what gear it would be in but again this may be not relevant since I don't understand how the cable is engaging the transmission internally.
Thanks for any help and I hope my terminology makes sense!
#54
Bringing up an old thread, again. I am just getting around to installing my numeric shifter and cables. I have a call into Dan at Numeric but just in case I don't here back from him today I thought I would ask others since I want to finish this up tomorrow.
I see the procedure for how to make sure you have enough travel room for the cable to slide through the outer sleeve by making sure the mounting nuts to the brackets on the car/shifter center the sleeve properly. I'm not clear on how I know how far to screw on the mounts on each end of the cable though. Maybe I was supposed to mark the original distance of the oem cable mounts so that I had a cable length set but I didn't and the oem ends have been screwed off the cable. Also, when adjusting the position of the pole (let's say from the "highest" hole to the "lowest" hole/throw, this would seem to change the travel distance of the bottom of the shift level therefore changing the length of the cable movement.?
Anyway, my question is, how do I establish the correct position of the ball mounts on each end of the cable to make sure it engages each gear properly? Not understanding exactly how the transmission works inside, maybe this is or isn't critical. I'm not sure but I would rather not assemble every thing and have to take everything back apart to make adjustments.
Second, is there a way to establish that each shift point is correctly engaging while up on stands? Is that as simple as engaging each gear point and making sure the rear wheel doesn't turn? The only problem I see with that is I have no idea what gear it would be in but again this may be not relevant since I don't understand how the cable is engaging the transmission internally.
Thanks for any help and I hope my terminology makes sense!
I see the procedure for how to make sure you have enough travel room for the cable to slide through the outer sleeve by making sure the mounting nuts to the brackets on the car/shifter center the sleeve properly. I'm not clear on how I know how far to screw on the mounts on each end of the cable though. Maybe I was supposed to mark the original distance of the oem cable mounts so that I had a cable length set but I didn't and the oem ends have been screwed off the cable. Also, when adjusting the position of the pole (let's say from the "highest" hole to the "lowest" hole/throw, this would seem to change the travel distance of the bottom of the shift level therefore changing the length of the cable movement.?
Anyway, my question is, how do I establish the correct position of the ball mounts on each end of the cable to make sure it engages each gear properly? Not understanding exactly how the transmission works inside, maybe this is or isn't critical. I'm not sure but I would rather not assemble every thing and have to take everything back apart to make adjustments.
Second, is there a way to establish that each shift point is correctly engaging while up on stands? Is that as simple as engaging each gear point and making sure the rear wheel doesn't turn? The only problem I see with that is I have no idea what gear it would be in but again this may be not relevant since I don't understand how the cable is engaging the transmission internally.
Thanks for any help and I hope my terminology makes sense!
There are three adjustments you need to make:
1. This is the critical one. Mount the cables on the transmission side so that when the ball-ends are attached, the levers can move fully back/forth. I tested this by attaching the cables without the plastic caps so that the ball-ends are loose.
2. Adjust the mounting position at the shifter side so that when the cables are attached to the shifter, the shifter is centered in the two axis it moves: back-forth and left-right.
3. The last adjustment that you can make is the shifter throw. You have 3 positions available and you'd have to cut the carpet for the shortest throw position. I have mine on middle point.
Now let me see if I can answer the questions you had above:
1. "How far should I screw the mounts on each end of cable?"
- at the transmission side - you should screw them so that when the cable is mounted to the housing, the cables are not restricting the range of motion of the transmission levers
- at the shifter side - screw them so that the shifter is centered (think of them as fine-grained control after you picked the mounting point for the cables at the shifter side)
2. "if you adjust the position of the pole, would you change the length of travel of the cables?"
- Absolutely not. You are simply extending/shrinking the length of the shifter rod, which basically gives you more/less leverage. This is how you'd control the throw (both axial and radial). Remember from what I said above that for a correct install, the travel of the cables should be exactly the travel of the transmission levers, and you'd ensure that by making sure the travel isn't restricted in any way.
3. " is there a way to establish that each shift point is correctly engaging while up on stands?".
- Here's what I did after everything was attached. I got under the car and moved by hand the levers on the transmission, making sure their range of motion is not impeded. If the range of motion is not impeded, then the rest of the system (cables/shifters) is basically free-floating, and at this point you can be sure that all gears would engage as well as the transmission can.
I know this might sound complicated but if you understand that the system is floppy and is only limited by the transmission levers, then it should all make sense. Your job is to make sure that you're not restricting the range of motion of these levers. The rest of the adjustments are just there to
1. center the shifter so that it looks/feels good
2. and to pick your throw setting (short/mid/long)
Good luck with your DIY!
#55
Thanks Casica. Dan at Numeric also called me back shortly after I left him a message. Numeric has videos of this adjustment on their facebook page. Very easy to do.
I love the shifter and cables. I used the middle position. Its a noticeable difference in throw but not extreme. Very precise, great upgrade. it does add a noticeable mechanical shift sound while operating (like many others have mentioned, like a rifle bolt in both feel and sound). I like the feel and sound. I have heard some concern about additional "transmission" vibration noise using the cables but I don't notice anything like that. I did reuse all of the rubber and foam padding that was on the original cables.
I love the shifter and cables. I used the middle position. Its a noticeable difference in throw but not extreme. Very precise, great upgrade. it does add a noticeable mechanical shift sound while operating (like many others have mentioned, like a rifle bolt in both feel and sound). I like the feel and sound. I have heard some concern about additional "transmission" vibration noise using the cables but I don't notice anything like that. I did reuse all of the rubber and foam padding that was on the original cables.