Originally Posted by dgjks6

just get the bosche for about $40 from ECS or pelican. I just did mine - took out the OEM and replaced with OEM (for $123 - didn't have time to wait for the mail order). But the OEM say bosche - and the only place I saw the word Porsche was on the box.

Originally Posted by Verboden

For what its worth I had my 997.2 in for a misfire problem at my indy and he offhandedly mentioned having seen problems with NGK on Porsche. He specifically mentioned NGK being a quality brand but something occasionally gave Porsches problems. No idea if it was year dependent, etc. Never saw a problem with Bosch.

Originally Posted by DGrayling

Steps to remove the outer mufflers. This is actually quite simple once you get the hang of it.

Safely raise the rear of the car. Chock the opposite front wheel to prevent the car from rolling. Place the rear of car and place on jack stands. Here is a great DIY on this by Edgy01: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-securely.html I use JackPoint jack stands myself as it makes this step very simple.

Remove the rear wheels using a 19 mm socket wrench and breaker bar.

Remove both side mufflers. First soak the screws and nuts with penetrating oil and wait awhile prior to undoing the fasteners. I used Kano Aerokroil and let them soak overnight.

Remove exhaust tip using an E12 socket. Loosen center muffler to side muffler sleeve nuts. (13 mm deep socket )

Attachment 1206911

Remove the nuts connecting the muffler to the catalytic converter/center muffler. ( 13mm socket or wrench ) The upper two nuts need to be removed . . . the lower nut only needs to be loosened some. The topmost nut is rather difficult to get to. More so on the left side of the car. This caused me to buy a 13mm Elbow Ratcheting Wrench shown below. A 13 mm S shaped box wrench might work and would less expensive.

Attachment 1206912

The below pics show the opposite side of the car.

Remove the two nuts at the front of side mufflers accessed from the wheel well. ( 13 mm deep socket ) Also remove the rear bumper cover support bar . . . undo one screw using a T30 driver and one bolt using a 10 mm socket.

Attachment 1206913

Move the muffler support bracket out off the 2 studs from the catalytic converter.
Pull side muffler away from center muffler by sliding them apart at the sleeve clamp.
Lower the muffler via the wheel well and remove.

Attachment 1206914

Originally Posted by tinkerbill

Here is an alternative to using a special wrench to remove the nut on top of the flange. I used a 3/8" deep 13mm socket next to a universal joint and enough 3/8 extension to clear the rear bumper. It requires you to remove the exhaust tip.

Originally Posted by docdrs

Ha , use a regular socket with the universal and you dont have to remove the exhaust tips, oh wait !I already posted that in #85.............oh well

Originally Posted by tinkerbill

Here is an alternative to using a special wrench to remove the nut on top of the flange. I used a 3/8" deep 13mm socket next to a universal joint and enough 3/8 extension to clear the rear bumper. It requires you to remove the exhaust tip.

Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly

Umm... is that a 997.1? This thread is for a 997.2.... my .2 has the cat bolts on the side not the rear and the nuts require a 90 degree different access.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly

Umm... is that a 997.1? This thread is for a 997.2.... my .2 has the cat bolts on the side not the rear and the nuts require a 90 degree different access.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly

Umm... is that a 997.1? This thread is for a 997.2.... my .2 has the cat bolts on the side not the rear and the nuts require a 90 degree different access.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Originally Posted by rjshar

I'm about to change plugs and coils in my 2009 4S. I have 80k miles and thought this would be a good Christmas project. The only reason I'm changing coils is because I'll be in there so I figured, why not? I'm going to go through the bumper removal procedure as I don't have a lift and don't feel like doing gymnastics in my garage. One question I have about the exhaust removal though...

If I do break an exhaust bolt, what is the process for replacing the bolt? Will I have to drill out the hole? Should I order new bolts prior to beginning this project? Is it a good idea to replace the bolts regardless of if they break or not?

I am pretty sure something will snap since this car has seen about 20k miles in salt and snow.

Thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly

I soaked my nuts.... didn't work and just made them more wrinkly. They broke. If they do shear, the bolt is pressed in from the other side (2009) so you wack them through with a punch and they flew out. Go buy some stainless replacements before you start. Some say you need to get high quality stuff, I used Home Depot and the exhaust hasn't fallen off yet. Someone posted the bolt and nut size, maybe in this thread.... dig around.

I just did my plugs for the third time at 120K miles..... I like jacking up the rear (need two floor jacks), removing the wheels, remove the bumper, remove the two side panels, then remove the two mufflers.... if you do it this way, you do not have to remove the evil cat bolts.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Originally Posted by henryting

I was able to reuse all the fasteners and exhaust bolts. But then, mine is a California car that never saw snow or road salt. Having said all that, I still use a liberal amount of :liquid wrench and let it sit overnight. The next day all the bolts, clamps and exhaust connector came off easily. If I remember the clamps are copper and the bolts all are plated to deter corrosion. Yes, I did a complete coil and spark plug change. I didn't have to remove the rear bumper because I have jacks and jack stands for the job and personally I think it is much easier after removing the wheels and the exhaust mufflers to gain access to the spark plugs and coil. Another advice is to use a good and accurate torque wrench for the spark plugs. Exercise care when you torque down the spark plugs and due to the aluminum engine block, stripping the thread is a real possibility if the torque wrench is off.