997.2 Spark Plug DIY
#166
Originally Posted by snaphappy
I’ll be starting tomorrow! Really excited!
But I’m still perplexed about the three bolts around the cats. I don’t even need to loosen them? I mean, that’s great news - but why is everyone else removing them? There must be a reason...
But I’m still perplexed about the three bolts around the cats. I don’t even need to loosen them? I mean, that’s great news - but why is everyone else removing them? There must be a reason...
Is the support bracket welded on? Or could you leave it attached to the car and remove it from the muffler?
#167
Ok. Reply to myself. Looking at the parts diagram (I'm riding with my daughter on her way to college) and not the car
You can disconnect the muffler at the cat or at the bracket. Wonder why I picked the cat when I did it.
You can disconnect the muffler at the cat or at the bracket. Wonder why I picked the cat when I did it.
#168
Pro
Old muffler removed for hardware transfer.
S-shaped 13mm ratcheting wrench made short work of the 12 o'clock cat nut. Muffler bracket is held to cat by only two of the nuts. Leave one at 4 o'clock alone.
Here's a picture of old muffler and its Fister replacement. Note that you have to transfer the two brackets to the new muffler. It's been a while since I did the install but I chose to remove the rear bracket at the cat. Only two of the cat nuts have to be removed - The one at 12 o'clock is tough, made easier if you have an s-shaped ratcheting wrench. I call it the "wonder wrench."
Last edited by swingwing; 08-21-2019 at 09:12 AM. Reason: Corrected typo.
#169
Pro
I didn't remove the rear bumper when I did this muffler job, but did later for spark plug replacement. You'll have a much easier time with either DIY if you remove the rear bumper. It's not that difficult to do.
#171
Pro
The "Wonder Wrench" was invaluable in getting that 12 o'clock cat nut off. Don't think I would've needed it had I removed the bumper.
Small point, but as I mentioned the muffler bracket is attached to the cat on only two of the studs. You don't need to mess with the third one. Just look at it and you'll see. And +1 on removing the bumper. Do it once and you'll say, "wow, that was pretty easy." It's way simpler than the front bumper (I've done that one too).
#172
Three Wheelin'
I didn't remove the rear bumper on my 997.2 when I changed the sparks plugs. Removing the side mufflers are necessary to gain access to the coil, plugs and the side plates.
#173
Old muffler removed for hardware transfer.
S-shaped 13mm ratcheting wrench made short work of the 12 o'clock cat nut. Muffler bracket is held to cat by only two of the nuts. Leave one at 4 o'clock alone.
Here's a picture of old muffler and its Fister replacement. Note that you have to transfer the two brackets to the new muffler. It's been a while since I did the install but I chose to remove the rear bracket at the cat. Only two of the cat nuts have to be removed - The one at 12 o'clock is tough, made easier if you have an s-shaped ratcheting wrench. I call it the "wonder wrench."
#174
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
2009 C2S 140K miles
You do not have to remove those three evil cat bolts to change your plugs or to remove the two side mufflers. The only time you have to remove those three !*#@#$! bolts is to remove the center muffler for a bypass (X) pipe. Also, you do not have to remove your muffler tips to remove your muffler.
When I change my plugs, I remove the bumper, side panels, and the side mufflers... way easier for me. I've done this on my 997.2 and did it on my friend's 996. Works the same. See my post #60 in this thread for access to the two aft muffler bolts. You need to remove the bumper and the side panels to get easy access to these two muffler bolts. You may be able to get at the plugs, or these bolts... whatever... without taking off the bumper but I can't do it. I don't like laying on my back under a car... just won't do it.
Sing the song for my 997.2: The engine block is connected to the exhaust header... the exhaust header is connected to the catalytic converter... the catalytic converter is connected to the center muffler (the X pipe in my case) by three evil bolts... the center muffler/xpipe is connected to the muffler .... the muffler is connected to the exhaust tips. The Muffler is held in place on the chassis by three fasten points: two brackets fore and aft on the muffler and the pipe clamp/collar to the center muffler/xpipe.
Top tip: plan on using a variety of cuss words. I found different words work better on different clamps and bolts... this is personal and I will not give advice on them although you will need them I assure you.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
You do not have to remove those three evil cat bolts to change your plugs or to remove the two side mufflers. The only time you have to remove those three !*#@#$! bolts is to remove the center muffler for a bypass (X) pipe. Also, you do not have to remove your muffler tips to remove your muffler.
When I change my plugs, I remove the bumper, side panels, and the side mufflers... way easier for me. I've done this on my 997.2 and did it on my friend's 996. Works the same. See my post #60 in this thread for access to the two aft muffler bolts. You need to remove the bumper and the side panels to get easy access to these two muffler bolts. You may be able to get at the plugs, or these bolts... whatever... without taking off the bumper but I can't do it. I don't like laying on my back under a car... just won't do it.
Sing the song for my 997.2: The engine block is connected to the exhaust header... the exhaust header is connected to the catalytic converter... the catalytic converter is connected to the center muffler (the X pipe in my case) by three evil bolts... the center muffler/xpipe is connected to the muffler .... the muffler is connected to the exhaust tips. The Muffler is held in place on the chassis by three fasten points: two brackets fore and aft on the muffler and the pipe clamp/collar to the center muffler/xpipe.
Top tip: plan on using a variety of cuss words. I found different words work better on different clamps and bolts... this is personal and I will not give advice on them although you will need them I assure you.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 08-21-2019 at 05:06 PM.
#175
2009 C2S 140K miles
You do not have to remove those three evil cat bolts to change your plugs or to remove the two side mufflers. The only time you have to remove those three !*#@#$! bolts is to remove the center muffler for a bypass (X) pipe. Also, you do not have to remove your muffler tips to remove your muffler.
When I change my plugs, I remove the bumper, side panels, and the side mufflers... way easier for me. I've done this on my 997.2 and did it on my friend's 996. Works the same. See my post #60 in this thread for access to the two aft muffler bolts. You need to remove the bumper and the side panels to get easy access to these two muffler bolts. You may be able to get at the plugs, or these bolts... whatever... without taking off the bumper but I can't do it. I don't like laying on my back under a car... just won't do it.
Sing the song for my 997.2: The engine block is connected to the exhaust header... the exhaust header is connected to the catalytic converter... the catalytic converter is connected to the center muffler (the X pipe in my case) by three evil bolts... the center muffler/xpipe is connected to the muffler .... the muffler is connected to the exhaust tips. The Muffler is held in place on the chassis by three fasten points: two brackets fore and aft on the muffler and the pipe clamp/collar to the center muffler/xpipe.
Top tip: plan on using a variety of cuss words. I found different words work better on different clamps and bolts... this is personal and I will not give advice on them although you will need them I assure you.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
You do not have to remove those three evil cat bolts to change your plugs or to remove the two side mufflers. The only time you have to remove those three !*#@#$! bolts is to remove the center muffler for a bypass (X) pipe. Also, you do not have to remove your muffler tips to remove your muffler.
When I change my plugs, I remove the bumper, side panels, and the side mufflers... way easier for me. I've done this on my 997.2 and did it on my friend's 996. Works the same. See my post #60 in this thread for access to the two aft muffler bolts. You need to remove the bumper and the side panels to get easy access to these two muffler bolts. You may be able to get at the plugs, or these bolts... whatever... without taking off the bumper but I can't do it. I don't like laying on my back under a car... just won't do it.
Sing the song for my 997.2: The engine block is connected to the exhaust header... the exhaust header is connected to the catalytic converter... the catalytic converter is connected to the center muffler (the X pipe in my case) by three evil bolts... the center muffler/xpipe is connected to the muffler .... the muffler is connected to the exhaust tips. The Muffler is held in place on the chassis by three fasten points: two brackets fore and aft on the muffler and the pipe clamp/collar to the center muffler/xpipe.
Top tip: plan on using a variety of cuss words. I found different words work better on different clamps and bolts... this is personal and I will not give advice on them although you will need them I assure you.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
BUT. I didn't listen to you guys and removed 2/3 bolts around the cat. And I snapped one off. It was the easiest one too and I got greedy and used a breaker bar - it snapped. So if you picture the three cat bolts in your head, the one I snapped is at 4 o'clock. Here's my question - can I just leave it as is? There is half a bolt rusted in there. So it's probably pretty solid, lol!!!
But overall I want to do the responsible thing - what would you guys do?
PS - I have no idea how to get it out. I beat on it with my punch set... but it's threaded in there right?
#176
Pro
The shanks are serrated, not threaded. With a correct size punch and heavy hammer you should be able to punch it out. You may have to heat the flange with a torch - smelt and pelt as it were. When you get the offender out, just replace it with a regular bolt and nut. In picture in post #171 you'll see the new copper exhaust nuts I put on the flange bolts. Because of heat cycles, corrosion and rust it's always good to use new fasteners when you can.
#177
The shanks are serrated, not threaded. With a correct size punch and heavy hammer you should be able to punch it out. You may have to heat the flange with a torch - smelt and pelt as it were. When you get the offender out, just replace it with a regular bolt and nut. In picture in post #171 you'll see the new copper exhaust nuts I put on the flange bolts. Because of heat cycles, corrosion and rust it's always good to use new fasteners when you can.
Ok guys, in typical fashion I made a mistake. After I installed the spark plugs I started torquing everything to 22lbs. I didn't break anything. Thank god. But the coils are torqued to 22lbs - is that bad????? Be honest! I just realized they're supposed to be 7.5lbs. All the other bolts that hold on the mufflers, the heat shield, everything is all torqued to 22lbs. Do you guys know the correct amount of torque? Anything I should go back and loosen?
Thanks so much for all the help!!
#178
Three Wheelin'
I don't have a torch. I'll beat on it and see if it comes out. Or maybe once I drive it I'll beat on it - it will be hot then.
Ok guys, in typical fashion I made a mistake. After I installed the spark plugs I started torquing everything to 22lbs. I didn't break anything. Thank god. But the coils are torqued to 22lbs - is that bad????? Be honest! I just realized they're supposed to be 7.5lbs. All the other bolts that hold on the mufflers, the heat shield, everything is all torqued to 22lbs. Do you guys know the correct amount of torque? Anything I should go back and loosen?
Thanks so much for all the help!!
Ok guys, in typical fashion I made a mistake. After I installed the spark plugs I started torquing everything to 22lbs. I didn't break anything. Thank god. But the coils are torqued to 22lbs - is that bad????? Be honest! I just realized they're supposed to be 7.5lbs. All the other bolts that hold on the mufflers, the heat shield, everything is all torqued to 22lbs. Do you guys know the correct amount of torque? Anything I should go back and loosen?
Thanks so much for all the help!!
No, coils are held by fasteners onto the plastic body of the coils and I can't see how you could torque it down to 22lbs without breaking it.
#179
Somehow I did though. Drivers side is correct at 7.5 lbs. I don't know, I'm thinking about leaving the passenger's side coils at 22lbs unless someone tells me otherwise.
#180
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I don't have a torch. I'll beat on it and see if it comes out. Or maybe once I drive it I'll beat on it - it will be hot then.
Ok guys, in typical fashion I made a mistake. After I installed the spark plugs I started torquing everything to 22lbs. I didn't break anything. Thank god. But the coils are torqued to 22lbs - is that bad????? Be honest! I just realized they're supposed to be 7.5lbs. All the other bolts that hold on the mufflers, the heat shield, everything is all torqued to 22lbs. Do you guys know the correct amount of torque? Anything I should go back and loosen?
Thanks so much for all the help!!
Ok guys, in typical fashion I made a mistake. After I installed the spark plugs I started torquing everything to 22lbs. I didn't break anything. Thank god. But the coils are torqued to 22lbs - is that bad????? Be honest! I just realized they're supposed to be 7.5lbs. All the other bolts that hold on the mufflers, the heat shield, everything is all torqued to 22lbs. Do you guys know the correct amount of torque? Anything I should go back and loosen?
Thanks so much for all the help!!
Peace
Bruce in Philly