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Mission accomplished. Idle is much smoother. It's like a completely different car. Fister sounds lovely at startup. Tried Sport Plus for the first time, wow that's scary fast. I know Turbos are fast etc, but wow a 4S is not really usable on the road in Sport Plus. You're instantly breaking the law. This is the fastest car I've ever sat in.
I'm still getting used to the flat 6 sound vs the LS3 V8. I can't really hear the exhaust until 3k rpm, even with the top down. There are times I enjoy the quiet. The car is more civilized. But I may have to ditch the center muffler and do an x-pipe at some point. I'm just worried if I go that far she'll sound like a ricer. I probably just need to accept her the way she is. At 5K+ she sounds like a formula one car or something. Makes me smile!!
Edit: ALSO THANK YOU FOR ALL THE HELP!!! I saved so much money and I love knowing exactly what was done. The feeling of DIY is incredible!! I wish I could change plugs everyday for a living haha!!!!
So I read through this thread and am in the process of replacing my plugs. I ordered a new set from RMEuropean, Bosch PN FGR5NQE04, the same part number as I removed. What is puzzling to me is the plugs I removed should be original with 24,000 miles on the car. The plugs have green rings on the porcelain, the work SUPER and a small r5. The replacement plugs I received are the same part number but have 2 blue rings on the porcelain and a small r6, nothing else. Confused, I called Bosch technical support and they told me the plugs with that part number should have the green rings and the work SUPER on them.
More puzzling is I found the "green" plugs on the NAPA website and the local store said they could have them in the next day. I go down this morning and they have 1 "green" plug and 5 "blue" plugs. Added to that, I looked at Pelican's website and they show the plug with photos of both "green" and "blue" plugs with that part number.
Has anyone else come across this? I have not gone to the Porsche dealer to see what color their plugs are but I am really curious. I would normally assume Bosch just decided to change the look of the plug, maybe a marketing decision??, but Bosch technical support indicates otherwise.
Attached is a photo with the removed plug next to the plug I purchased but not sure about installing.
So I read through this thread and am in the process of replacing my plugs. I ordered a new set from RMEuropean, Bosch PN FGR5NQE04, the same part number as I removed. What is puzzling to me is the plugs I removed should be original with 24,000 miles on the car. The plugs have green rings on the porcelain, the work SUPER and a small r5. The replacement plugs I received are the same part number but have 2 blue rings on the porcelain and a small r6, nothing else. Confused, I called Bosch technical support and they told me the plugs with that part number should have the green rings and the work SUPER on them.
More puzzling is I found the "green" plugs on the NAPA website and the local store said they could have them in the next day. I go down this morning and they have 1 "green" plug and 5 "blue" plugs. Added to that, I looked at Pelican's website and they show the plug with photos of both "green" and "blue" plugs with that part number. [Text deleted for brevity]...
Look carefully at the plug for the part number. It looked like in you picture the part number is stamped in the metal just above the threads. The number on the box might be different than the plug. If the R5 vs R6 is somehow referencing the heat range of the plugs then they are not equivalent. According to Bosch, the part number indicates the heat range. https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/lear...or-hotter-plug
I found this other discussion indicating the R5 and R6 might have something to do with the plug electrical resistance but it seemed to be speculation.
I went back and checked the plugs from my previous changes. All my plugs had the green rings, however the R number has changed. The original plugs installed at the factory had an R5 and the subsequent changes I made had R6. In all cases, the part number stamped on the metal ring was the exact same part number FGR5NQE04. My car has not exploded (yet).
I suspect... total speculation .... the R = Revision. In short, if the part number is the same, the plug is the same. If it is revision number, generally, the newer is better... but I have no basis for that other than.... heck.. I am the Princess of Canada.
https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/product.aspx?zpid=27986 Interesting.. click on the FITMENT tab in the Bosch catalog ..... this looks like the "go to" plug for Porsche (hey, when you are a Princess, you have time on your hands).
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 09-18-2019 at 06:52 PM.
As a follow up, I received the Porsche OEM plugs and they are green with SUPER on them and a r5. I don't know why Bosch produce identically numbered plugs that look different but I decided to go with the OEM plugs for confidence in getting what I purchased. They likely perform the same but to each their own...
Steps to remove the outer mufflers. This is actually quite simple once you get the hang of it.
Safely raise the rear of the car. Chock the opposite front wheel to prevent the car from rolling. Place the rear of car and place on jack stands. Here is a great DIY on this by Edgy01: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-securely.html I use JackPoint jack stands myself as it makes this step very simple.
Remove the rear wheels using a 19 mm socket wrench and breaker bar.
Remove both side mufflers. First soak the screws and nuts with penetrating oil and wait awhile prior to undoing the fasteners. I used Kano Aerokroil and let them soak overnight.
Remove exhaust tip using an E12 socket. Loosen center muffler to side muffler sleeve nuts. (13 mm deep socket )
Remove the nuts connecting the muffler to the catalytic converter/center muffler. ( 13mm socket or wrench ) The upper two nuts need to be removed . . . the lower nut only needs to be loosened some. The topmost nut is rather difficult to get to. More so on the left side of the car. This caused me to buy a 13mm Elbow Ratcheting Wrench shown below. A 13 mm S shaped box wrench might work and would less expensive.
Remove the two nuts at the front of side mufflers accessed from the wheel well. ( 13 mm deep socket ) Also remove the rear bumper cover support bar . . . undo one screw using a T30 driver and one bolt using a 10 mm socket.
Move the muffler support bracket out off the 2 studs from the catalytic converter.
Pull side muffler away from center muffler by sliding them apart at the sleeve clamp.
Lower the muffler via the wheel well and remove.
I know this is an old post but I'm in the process of replacing the spark plugs. Do you need to have all 4 wheels in the air or can it be just the 2 rears?
I know this is an old post but I'm in the process of replacing the spark plugs. Do you need to have all 4 wheels in the air or can it be just the 2 rears?
Just did this job, green plugs that came out have same part number as blue plugs that went in.
Dunno if you'll see this question after such a long time, but you're saying you installed blue plugs with no ill effects? Anybody else try the blue R6 plugs?
BTW: the porsche stores like Sunset or getporscheparts show 999-170-130-90 as the part number for the spark plugs, but the OEM retailers like Pelican and RM European are showing 99917015190 superceding the original part. 99917015190 is the same part for 991.1 9A1 engines. The catalogs show a slightly lower price for 999-170-130-90 though. Anybody know you end up getting the same thing?
I just looked at my box of spark plugs I bought from getporscheparts for the GT4 and they’re green but r6. I’m not so sure about the blue plugs. The Porsche plugs come in a sealed Porsche box and the plugs themselves are stamped with the Porsche part number.
I completed the spark plug replacement along with the coil packs and it was not an easy task. In addition to removing the rear wheels, I had to remove the exhaust manifold to get to the plugs. Removing the heat shields was the most challenging part. After that it was fairly straight forward. Had a friend helped me and probably couldn't have done it myself. Took 4 hands to hold the manifold up, align and tighten. Glad I got it done and car runs a lot smoother!
Last edited by Vincent713; 02-19-2020 at 01:18 AM.
Thanks for taking the time to document your work for those new to working on these things,. However you show using a torque "wrench" screwdriver handle style inch pound device. Hopefully you did not use that in your work as the plugs take 22 ft-pounds and the torx takes 7 ft- pounds. Using a wrench in inch pounds is not going to work by a factor of 12.
I completed the spark plug replacement along with the coil packs and it was not an easy task. In addition to removing the rear wheels, I had to remove the intake manifold to get to the plugs. Removing the heat shields was the most challenging part. After that it was fairly straight forward. Had a friend helped me and probably couldn't have done it myself. Took 4 hands to hold the manifold up, align and tighten. Glad I got it done and car runs a lot smoother!
You did mean exhaust manifold, not intake, right? FYI that driver's side heat shield gave me fits. I finally discovered how to tip it just so to get it clear. I didn't need to remove the exhaust manifolds.
08-22-2019, 01:33 AM
