i was 2nd gear too (thankfully around my area after a 1300 mile cruise - a few days later). broke at same spot as you at 26k miles.

just want to say thanks to the OP for this thread! very helpful!

 

MYW, thanks for the note and great to see the write up helping a fellow enthusiast. Also a reminder to prioritize the shift cable project on my preemptive maintenance list. With 75K+ on the clock I'm likely pushing my luck with the factory cables... plus I'd like to just try the Numeric cables to see if it will induce better shift feel.

As an FYI... I was dealing with the classic issues/challenges of shifting into 1st from a stop. I temporarily addressed it like most others by executing a quick double clutch then shift, shifting into 2nd then 1st, a verbal curse to the teutonic gods, etc. My initial thoughts were: it was time to adjust the cabling mechanism as the cables may have stretched over time or just simply replace the cables with something a little more substantial like the Numeric cables. Hopefully it's not the synchros going south. But over the recent Memorial Day wknd I replaced my AOS, WP, t-stat, and brakes. Viola! the teutonics gods rewarded my efforts with proper shift into 1st. Of course I don't believe this has anything to do with the AOS, WP, and t-stat but the brake and clutch systems use the same fluids systems. After replacing the pads I flushed my brake system thoroughly running two bottles through to ensure the bubbles were completely removed. Note to self: don't be so miserly with the brake fluid... use an extra bottle to rid the system of any potential trapped air. FWIW, I used a vacuum brake bleeder in addition to my Motive brake bleed kit this time.

 

I have replaced the cable but can't see how I would be able to push intimate place the black rubber sealing grommet without putting the car on a lift. I only have 2 jack stand lifting up drivers side. Access is nearly impossible. Maybe because I have a cab?

 

Try inserting the tapered grommet from inside the cabin instead of from underneath. Re-shape the grommet by grinding off material at the widest part of the cone shape and be sure to use a light coat of grease.

I've done 3 using this method. Much easier...

 

Just in case anyone was having trouble finding the shift alignment tool, the full part number is 000-721-961-91. It's a little over $3 at Sunset

 

Thanks for the DIY!

My shifter cables broke a week ago, I took the car apart the same day with help from this thread and installed the new cables last night. Finished this morning 12:30 AM.
The test drive to work this morning was a success.

My interior is still in pieces, I just plugged the HVAC and buttons below back in for function, since I want to get the middle console painted while I'm there.

Getting the rubber sleeve out took me a while till I had the wd40 soak a while with a beer brake and used a huge chisel to push it through.

Broken 997 shifter cable

interior apart

 

Thanks Insomnic for posting.

One step cannot be emphasized enough: use copious amounts of lubricant on the grommet and cables when (re)installing the cables!!! Will save you a lot of time and headache trying to push that grommet in!

Other top tips:
- WD40 soak on old grommet will make it much easier to push out.
- if you’re getting new cables anyway, get Cup car cables from Gert at Carnewal.com. He prices reasonably, ships fast, and the shifter feel is unbelievably awesome! I’ve heard numeric cables aren’t bad either, but I think you need to also upgrade your shift console. I kept my factory short shift kit and I’m very happy with the setup.
- if you use numeric or Cup car cables, consider a strategy to mitigate added NVH (gear whine). I found a thread on Rennlist where the best suggestion was to use appropriate diameter fuel line zip tied to all “exposed” parts of the shift cable. Used this, no nvh whatsoever in my cabin even with the center console out.

Happy shifting!

 

Do you have a similar video for a Boxster S 6-speed? Thanks.

 

On the recent request for a possible video on shift cable replacement, I don’t need the console removal; I have already done that. Thanks!

 

Anyone have any opinions on Numeric vs the GT3 console. I have installed the Numeric shifter and cables on my '06 Cayman but I not like the feel. I'm wondering if maybe I don't have the cables adjusted correctly as it is difficult to get into first gear without feeling like I have to try too hard and if does not feel right. All other gears engage fine. One thing for sure, I know that my shift **** is not perfectly vertical when in neutral and slants slightly to the right. This is not good as sometime I can't tell if I'm in fifth or third (visually) without looking at the tach and noticing the rpm's.

Also, just for my own curiosity, can you use numeric cables with the GT3 console?

 

Absolutely invaluable walkthrough - thank you Insomnic.

I realise I’m a bit late to the party, but the cable broke on my 997.1 the other day leaving me stuck in 3rd.

Decided to upgrade to the Numeric Racing cables.


A few points in no particular order:

The central rubber grommet/bung will be the main rate-limiting step and will cost you hours, the skin on your hands, your sanity. Lube is the key: lightly watered-down washing up liquid worked perfectly.

I also found that after smacking it with a hammer and leaving it for a while, it would creep forward and found if gained another few mm when I returned. Good excuse for multiple beer-breaks.

It is possible to re insert the bung from inside the cabin: I warmed it up in boiling water first to soften it and then levered it in fat side first with plenty of Fairy liquid.

The Numeric cables require you to recycle the bung - you’ll need to cut it cleanly off the old cables. Same goes for the NVH wrapping at either end of the cable.

If you do go for the Numeric cables, there is a wealth of information in terms of videos and pdfs on their website.

Good luck!

 

I have an 04 996 manual transmission. I recently had my flywheel changed, my clutch and the IMS done while I was at it. Everything was great for 5 months. After that, I lost the smooth transition into gears while shifting. Still runs great however, my shifting is a little crunchy so to speak. I upgraded and installed a short shift kit. That was pretty cool and my shift throw is a bit shorter but Unfortunately, I still do not have the smooth shift transition that i want. At this point, I am thinking that I should replace my shifter cables. with 55k miles, They could just be old and the reason for the difficult shift. Has anyone replaced their cables? If so what cables can anyone recommend? I hear a bit about replacing with the numeric cables instead of the factory fit. I appreciate any feedback.

 

Did you have to splice open the rubber piece up the middle? Do your numeric cables seems noisier or did you use the insulation?

 

You ever get an answer to this? Changed the transmission mount on my 03' GT2 and noticed one of the shft cable ends was very loose, could move it back and forth while connected very easily and shifting into 1st often requires double-cluch action and 2nd is starting to miss. Both issues may be unrelated but seeing the loose cable end, I want to replace at minimum.

 

You ever get an answer to this? Changed the transmission mount on my 03' GT2 and noticed one of the shft cable ends was very loose, could move it back and forth while connected very easily and shifting into 1st often requires double-cluch action and 2nd is starting to miss. Both issues may be unrelated but seeing the loose cable end, I want to replace at minimum.